AP Boutique Trunk Show - 2019 Novelties Reflections

[Carry The Interest]

I had my scheduled appointment at my local boutique last week to see the new 2019 novelties. They were doing this on an appointment-basis, so one-on-one with a sales rep up in the back lounge area of the store looking at a lot of the new pieces over some espresso. I appreciated the intimacy of the setup -- much less chaotic than some of the post-Basel Rolex events I have gone to previously.

As background, I do not currently own an AP. Like many, I've had my eyes set on a Royal Oak (15400 previously; now 15500) the past few years and have made things overly difficult on acquiring one since I have been insistent on a blue dial. I did not walk in expecting a miracle ("you're one of our first appointments so we still have room on the blue 15500 allocation list") and went in genuinely open-minded on the new Code line.

In short, the sales people are really pushing the new Code line hard for obvious reasons. I am curious what others have heard when trying on these new watches to see how "tight" the messaging is on the new line. The three selling points that were repeated to me throughout the visit were:

1. Code 11:59 is analogous to the original launch of the Royal Oak (highly controversial initial reception and the rare opportunity to buy into something at its origins)
2. Code 11:59 is a very exclusive line right now given the limited production during this launch year. There was one piece from the collection I gave more attention to (a three-hander time/date only model) and I was told they already had sold one and they only had one more allocation this year for that model
3. There is an "effort" for boutique representatives to push the Code 11:59 on new/first time AP buyers to broaden their customer base. In particular, I was told that in many cases first timers are lower on the priority list that recurring customers when it comes to taking deposits down on new pieces (gee, really?). That's apparently different with the Code line, as they are really trying to give first timers a fair shot at getting one. In short, if I wanted the three-hander I was inspecting closely, their one remaining allocation piece this year "could actually" be mine.

Not sharing this information because I genuinely play into it or believe any of this. Thought it would be interesting to share though to see what others have been told in trunk show visits the past few weeks/months.

My brand representative was very nice. Aside from getting the whole Code sales pitch, I was shown other new pieces that I clearly had no chance of obtaining. The rep could tell I am total WIS and seemed to genuinely enjoy conversing over all the other pieces we looked at together even though they knew I could not be put on any of these lists.

I did float a hypothetical about putting down multiple deposits, mainly just to see what would happen. In short, even if I put down a deposit for one of the Code's, I would not be able to put down a deposit on a 15500 in any dial color (blue, black, grey). I was given a subtle hint that adding a ladies watch to the party may help me get on a list for a black or grey dial.

Below are some of the pieces I saw in-person and tried on, with a few brief thoughts on each. Note that I did not see any of the new GC pieces from the Code line...

Code 11:59 - 3 Hander/Time-Date Only - I saw the WG blue dial, "pink" gold (RG) black dial, and RG white dial. After seeing these and the chrono's in person, I think the white dial was actually the best looking watch I tried on from the Code line. I've refrained from strong comments up to now (as I wanted to at least try and keep an open mind) but do not feel bad saying this now -- the black dial is a disaster. I think the lacquer on the black makes the dial look very cheap. The 3 6 9 hour markers get totally lost in the black. Unlike the white dial where you can actually see these raised from the dial, they look more like their are painted on with the black (you lose depth perception). General comments on this line - case work is stunning and there are a lot of nice little touches when it comes to the contrast of polished and brushed edges you don't pick up on in the photos. The double curved sapphire crystal is certainly a treat to look at while inspecting the watch; beyond that I am not sure how you or anyone else can appreciate it while it's on your wrist. I particularly do not appreciate the skeleton lugs. Leather bands were a bit underwhelming, would have expected more on those and the clasps for watches at this price point.

Code 11:59 - Chronographs - Saw both WG versions (black and blue dials) and RG versions (black and blue dials). The RG blue dial was actually a really beautiful color combination. Same comments as above regarding case work, lugs, and leather bands. The chrono buttons do have a nice "click" to them and the movement display on the back is a real treat to inspect, especially when you're starting the timer and watching the flyback in action.

Code 11:59 - Other - I did not see the perpetual calendar, minute repeater, selfwinding tourbs, or the openworked tourb.

Royal Oak Models - This was the real fun part of the visit, and I was grateful to have the chance to at least see and try on some really impressive models.

- 15407BC - Openworked frosted gold is a show-stopper piece. I have never appreciated the frosted gold until seeing it on my own wrist with an openworked dial. Call me an AP amateur (I am!) but if I think about everything that impresses me regarding the SS RO bracelet, it's like that but on steroids when you add in the further contrast of the frosted gold. The watch does have a serious bling factor depending on how the light hits hit. However, I was surprised by how muted the "frost" effect can appear when not exposed to direct light.

- 15202BC - If I could have any watch I tried on there, it would be this. I don't think "salmon" is the right color to describe the dial. It's more like if salmon and copper had a baby, and that baby was a well-tanned armadillo (I love armadillos). Overall weight just felt perfect on the wrist - just the right amount of balance between the heft of white gold packaged nicely into such a thin case.

- 15500ST - Tried on all three colors. It may have been the lighting, but the grey dial seems to truly be a different shade than the Ruthenium option with the 15400. Generally speaking, it seemed a bit darker of what I recall about the Ruthenium variant. I wish I didn't see the blue, because it just furthered my desire for this model. Best way to describe the color is a hybrid of the 15400 blue and the 15202 blue. It still has rich, vibrant shades of blue but there are plenty of angles where you get more of a cold blue-steel smokey color to it.

- 26315ST - I saw both the silver/blue subdial and ruthenium versions. The former is a fantastic combination in the flesh. I was a bit surprised by how small the new 38mm chrono felt on my wrist. While it's measured size is only 38mm, I was expecting it to fit very similar to my DaytonaC (which I always thought wears small for a 40mm). These two watches felt very similar in size, and I actually might go so far to say the Daytona feels a little bigger based on my limited time with this piece. Similar to the 15450 option, the smaller/thinner bracelet was a turn-off for me.

- RO Offshores - Not going to say much here because I am not a big fan of the Offshores, primarily due to size and how they fit on my wrist. I saw the 26400SO blue camo and 26480TI blue.

[RolexZen]

I saw the Code 11.59 watches in Singapore. This was in early February and they didn’t have any 15500’s to show me.

Saw the Code 11.59 watches in a one-on-one setting at the same time another SA was showing the watches to another customer. (No appointment necessary)

While both SA’s were pushing the same selling points, they weren’t the three points you mention. No comparison to the 1972 launch of the Royal Oak, no mention of a desire to get these into the hands of new customers (maybe because I already own an AP?), and no push regarding exclusivity, per se.

They did close their sales spiel asking which one I wanted to take home, and then what my reservations were when I passed.

[V25V]

Originally Posted by RolexZen

I saw the Code 11.59 watches in Singapore. This was in early February and they didn’t have any 15500’s to show me.

Saw the Code 11.59 watches in a one-on-one setting at the same time another SA was showing the watches to another customer. (No appointment necessary)

While both SA’s were pushing the same selling points, they weren’t the three points you mention. No comparison to the 1972 launch of the Royal Oak, no mention of a desire to get these into the hands of new customers (maybe because I already own an AP?), and no push regarding exclusivity, per se.

They did close their sales spiel asking which one I wanted to take home, and then what my reservations were when I passed.

It really is an awful look and the 15500 doesn't do anything for me either. With the date moved further out and the "automatic" removed, it looks enormous and empty. I have to say, these latest designs have really pushed me away from the brand and Francois' cocky attitude about the code specifically rubbed me the wrong way. All this and then the boutique only model? Nope.

[blacke90]

Originally Posted by V25V

It really is an awful look and the 15500 doesn't do anything for me either. With the date moved further out and the "automatic" removed, it looks enormous and empty. I have to say, these latest designs have really pushed me away from the brand and Francois' cocky attitude about the code specifically rubbed me the wrong way. All this and then the boutique only model? Nope.

I felt the same way you did when it first came out, but now I really like the 15500 for the more modern (cleaner) and sportier look. I’ll get the 15202 for the more elegant look. Can’t form an opinion on the Code 11.59 yet as I haven’t seen it in person.

[RolexZen]

Originally Posted by blacke90

I felt the same way you did when it first came out, but now I really like the 15500 for the more modern (cleaner) and sportier look. I’ll get the 15202 for the more elegant look. Can’t form an opinion on the Code 11.59 yet as I haven’t seen it in person.

Yeah, I like the 15500 being sportier and I have my 15202 for exactly what it is.

I think some liked the 15400 for being like a bigger 15202, but I’m glad for the further differentiation.

[YoungMoneyAssassin]

I emailed my rep for an appointment and got the same. A bunch of words on how "exclusive" and "low production" the code 11.59 is.

Clearly, they're desperate to push this line out. I will not be buying one because I think they're trash. That's just my opinion, not looking to offend anyone.

[blacke90]

Technically the Boutique is correct as it’s boutique only and is low production.

Originally Posted by YoungMoneyAssassin

I emailed my rep for an appointment and got the same. A bunch of words on how "exclusive" and "low production" the code 11.59 is.

Clearly, they're desperate to push this line out. I will not be buying one because I think they're trash. That's just my opinion, not looking to offend anyone.

[bruinmd]

I know you're not a fan, but from someone who is waiting for the arrival of the 26480ti, I gotta ask-- what did you think of the watch in person?

[blacke90]

Originally Posted by RolexZen

Yeah, I like the 15500 being sportier and I have my 15202 for exactly what it is.

I think some liked the 15400 for being like a bigger 15202, but I’m glad for the further differentiation.

This is exactly how I feel. With the 15500, I can own both without thinking it’s a similar looking watch. I even opted for the grey 15500 as to have it different dial than the 15202 blue.

[V25V]

Originally Posted by blacke90

Technically the Boutique is correct as it’s boutique only and is low production.

Well, since they are going boutique only anyhow, does boutique only really hold much weight any longer?

[blacke90]

Originally Posted by V25V

Well, since they are going boutique only anyhow, does boutique only really hold much weight any longer?

True, but there are still many countries that do not have AP Boutiques, but do have AP ADs. For example, no AP boutique in Canada. Soo Boutique only pieces are hard to get.

[SMD]

Originally Posted by V25V

Well, since they are going boutique only anyhow, does boutique only really hold much weight any longer?

Slightly different point but IMO I think there is still a difference between an AP boutique (owned by AP) versus an AP "boutique" owned and operated by say Westime (Vegas). If I were a betting man I would bet the AP owned stores get better allocations.

[blacke90]

Originally Posted by SMD

Slightly different point but IMO I think there is still a difference between an AP boutique (owned by AP) versus an AP "boutique" owned and operated by say Westime (Vegas). If I were a betting man I would bet the AP owned stores get better allocations.

Safe to assume what you said above. Priority list could be: AP Boutique, AP “boutique” (such as Westime owned/operated), ADs that carry AP

[Carry The Interest]

Originally Posted by bruinmd

I know you're not a fan, but from someone who is waiting for the arrival of the 26480ti, I gotta ask-- what did you think of the watch in person?

I'll put it this way -- if I was ever in the market for a ROO, this one would certainly be at the top/near the top of my shortlist. FWIW, only other ROO that has really peaked my interest in the past year is the Ghost. I just can't get comfortable with the size of this line (the 15500 is probably the absolute max I would ever go with a watch). I am not usually a fan of colored rubber bands, but the blue on this one is fantastic -- it matches the dial well and doesn't look obnoxious in doing so.

A few things I learned from trying it on (and not sure how much this differs from other titanium ROO offerings).
- The weight. I couldn't believe I was wearing a 42mm AP. Such a lightweight piece.
- The "mega" tapisserie on the dial. This was one of those you really need to see it to appreciate it moments for me. I had shrugged when I saw the SIHH photos of this watch -- in person, the supersized tapisserie motif in blue looks stunning. By blowing up the motif, you get a whole different take on how light can play between the lines of the pattern. The grey subdials provide a cohesive contrast that really pulls the whole watch together.

One other thing worth noting to everyone in the thread. While I had an appointment scheduled in advance to see all the new pieces, including the Code line, a lot of the Codes were already at the boutique. They have a variety of the time/date only and chrono models in the actual display cases available for purchase today. Looks like there are already a few of these pieces listed on Chrono24 too.

[Vaxe]

Thanks, any pictures?

[bruinmd]

Originally Posted by Carry The Interest

I'll put it this way -- if I was ever in the market for a ROO, this one would certainly be at the top/near the top of my shortlist. FWIW, only other ROO that has really peaked my interest in the past year is the Ghost. I just can't get comfortable with the size of this line (the 15500 is probably the absolute max I would ever go with a watch). I am not usually a fan of colored rubber bands, but the blue on this one is fantastic -- it matches the dial well and doesn't look obnoxious in doing so.

A few things I learned from trying it on (and not sure how much this differs from other titanium ROO offerings).
- The weight. I couldn't believe I was wearing a 42mm AP. Such a lightweight piece.
- The "mega" tapisserie on the dial. This was one of those you really need to see it to appreciate it moments for me. I had shrugged when I saw the SIHH photos of this watch -- in person, the supersized tapisserie motif in blue looks stunning. By blowing up the motif, you get a whole different take on how light can play between the lines of the pattern. The grey subdials provide a cohesive contrast that really pulls the whole watch together.

One other thing worth noting to everyone in the thread. While I had an appointment scheduled in advance to see all the new pieces, including the Code line, a lot of the Codes were already at the boutique. They have a variety of the time/date only and chrono models in the actual display cases available for purchase today. Looks like there are already a few of these pieces listed on Chrono24 too.

Good stuff--thanks man!

Funny you say that........ for me, it was down to the ghost and this new 264080ti as well
What made me go with the latter was 1) the stunning blue dial with grey sub dial contrast and 2) the slightly thinner case thanks to the FP 1185, with 44mm pushers.
Like you, I'm not sure my small wrists can pull this watch off. My 15400 wore fine, but still felt 'clock like' on my wrist, whereas my 15202 fits perfect.
I have my fingers crossed that the 26480ti will look ok, b/c the ROO is supposed to wear a bit big. As long as the lugs don't hang over, I should be ok, but we will see soon.

thanks for the feedback.

[Carry The Interest]

Originally Posted by Vaxe

Thanks, any pictures?

Unfortunately, no. I asked the rep as soon as I sat down if photographs were allowed and was politely told they have a strict no photography rule.

[P2725TMB]

As much as I wanted to like the Codes I can't, and I'd never buy one. To be honest I find it hard to believe they will be successful, but then there's no accounting for taste.

[tyler1980]

Originally Posted by Carry The Interest

Unfortunately, no. I asked the rep as soon as I sat down if photographs were allowed and was politely told they have a strict no photography rule.

seems to always be the case when the codes are present

[benlee]

Originally Posted by Carry The Interest

Unfortunately, no. I asked the rep as soon as I sat down if photographs were allowed and was politely told they have a strict no photography rule.

As someone that love to snap pics of watches, this will annoy me. Along with the insistence of keep watches tightly wrapped in plastic.

[P2725TMB]

Both times I've seen the codes in London photos weren't a problem. I didn't take many, though, as I just wasn't inclined.

[blacke90]

Originally Posted by P2725TMB

Both times I've seen the codes in London photos weren't a problem. I didn't take many, though, as I just wasn't inclined.

It seems the no photography rule is in LA. I assume the AP "Boutique" owned/operated by Westime?

[RolexZen]

Yep, pictures have never been a problem in Singapore.

[CoveWatch]

Thanks for detailed review! Looks like it’s still confirmed that I will not be getting any AP’s anytime soon, mainly because the only ref I really want I cannot get

[Carry The Interest]

Originally Posted by tyler1980

seems to always be the case when the codes are present

Definitely! It's funny you mention that... I am sure you could guess the Codes were the first models I was shown. The "no photography" comment was used by the rep as a transition into the Code line. I felt like I was listening to Francois as I was told all about how these watches need to be seen in person and inspected first-hand and that photos really don't do them justice.

Originally Posted by blacke90

It seems the no photography rule is in LA. I assume the AP "Boutique" owned/operated by Westime?

Correct.

Originally Posted by CoveWatch

Thanks for detailed review! Looks like it’s still confirmed that I will not be getting any AP’s anytime soon, mainly because the only ref I really want I cannot get

I'm sure the frustration is a little easier to bear once you have a blue 15400 on your wrist! Out of curiosity, what caught your eye this year that you really want?

[CoveWatch]

Originally Posted by Carry The Interest

I'm sure the frustration is a little easier to bear once you have a blue 15400 on your wrist! Out of curiosity, what caught your eye this year that you really want?

Oh, nothing this year..but if I was still 19, I'd be all over that Code line

I still really want a 15407ST but that dream seems to be floating further away Have since turned to Patek and Rolex so that helps ease the pain since I at least have a shot at these