DJ 16220 as entry to vintage

[denverpilot]

Hi All - long time reader first time poster.

I came across a great 16220 with the engine turned bezel. Fresh service, and comes from a seller I trust and have done business with (and a fair price too, I think).

I’ve been a bit cold on Rolex lately with the inventory/price issues for pro models, but I’m getting bored with my Omegas and IWCs. Something about this 16220 grabs my attention, but I’ve never had a DJ before let alone a “vintage” Rolex. I want a watch that can go from shorts and t-shirt to suit. It would be in a rotation of watches, but get a good amount of wear. I’m just a little hesitant to make a 30 year old watch a daily wearer.

Anyone have experience with this particular model? I don’t see a ton of reviews for the 16220.

[CaveDweller]

Not “quite” the same model, but close enough to answer your question perhaps – I am wearing a 16030 with the 3035 movement, and have done so every day and night since purchasing it from new in 1988. Accuracy is still at +2 seconds per day, and that hasn’t changed in 30 years

It has taken everything I could throw at it, and on a few occasions, I have come off considerable worse than the watch. The Jubilee bracelet has plenty of life left in it, and I wear the watch inside right (and I’m right handed) – don’t even know it’s there

I swim with it, bathe with it, go fishing with it (salt water) – and it still looks as fresh as the day I bought it

Plenty of spare parts from Rolex still available, which makes servicing a breeze. Had it serviced last year (independent), and he simply said “the watch is in excellent condition, the (black) dial has a few small spots”. Those spots must only be visible under a microscope, because I can’t see them even using a loupe

Providing the watch you are currently looking at is in good condition (and there’s no reason why a 30 year old Rolex shouldn’t be), you’ll be fine. Watch out for swapped or service dials, hands etc, as there will have been no need for this unless something went seriously wrong somewhere. You will find you have a lot to choose from, so be picky.

Some mainstream dealers advertise stock with “professionally re-finished dials”, and on occasion “aftermarket bracelets” – avoid like the plague. There’s no need for any of that on a 30 year old Rolex. It should look like the day it was born. Similarly, there is little that can go wrong with the lume, as there wasn’t much on the dial to start off with. Check the small lume dots on the outer edge, they should be present (11 of them anyway), and very slightly “off white”. If they look pristine white, walk away, it’s a re-dial

And take the “recently serviced by our watch maker” with a pinch of salt – a proper service, either by an independent or by RSC costs around £500. That would crush the profit margin for anyone selling that watch at high volume. It’s far more likely they’ve had the back off to confirm it’s genuine, then stuck it on a timer to check accuracy - but other than slapping it on the arse and declaring it “OK”, that’s likely to be about it

So yeah, go ahead and relax – choose wisely and you’ll be fine - it may be (border line) vintage, but don’t be afraid of putting it through its paces. The watch can take it ….

[denverpilot]

Originally Posted by CaveDweller

Not “quite” the same model, but close enough to answer your question perhaps – I am wearing a 16030 with the 3035 movement, and have done so every day and night since purchasing it from new in 1988. Accuracy is still at +2 seconds per day, and that hasn’t changed in 30 years

It has taken everything I could throw at it, and on a few occasions, I have come off considerable worse than the watch. The Jubilee bracelet has plenty of life left in it, and I wear the watch inside right (and I’m right handed) – don’t even know it’s there

I swim with it, bathe with it, go fishing with it (salt water) – and it still looks as fresh as the day I bought it

Plenty of spare parts from Rolex still available, which makes servicing a breeze. Had it serviced last year (independent), and he simply said “the watch is in excellent condition, the (black) dial has a few small spots”. Those spots must only be visible under a microscope, because I can’t see them even using a loupe

Providing the watch you are currently looking at is in good condition (and there’s no reason why a 30 year old Rolex shouldn’t be), you’ll be fine. Watch out for swapped or service dials, hands etc, as there will have been no need for this unless something went seriously wrong somewhere. You will find you have a lot to choose from, so be picky.

Some mainstream dealers advertise stock with “professionally re-finished dials”, and on occasion “aftermarket bracelets” – avoid like the plague. There’s no need for any of that on a 30 year old Rolex. It should look like the day it was born. Similarly, there is little that can go wrong with the lume, as there wasn’t much on the dial to start off with. Check the small lume dots on the outer edge, they should be present (11 of them anyway), and very slightly “off white”. If they look pristine white, walk away, it’s a re-dial

And take the “recently serviced by our watch maker” with a pinch of salt – a proper service, either by an independent or by RSC costs around £500. That would crush the profit margin for anyone selling that watch at high volume. It’s far more likely they’ve had the back off to confirm it’s genuine, then stuck it on a timer to check accuracy - but other than slapping it on the arse and declaring it “OK”, that’s likely to be about it

So yeah, go ahead and relax – choose wisely and you’ll be fine - it may be (border line) vintage, but don’t be afraid of putting it through its paces. The watch can take it ….

Great insight, thanks! This particular model actually had most of the components replaced by Rolex (dial, hands, crystal) with paperwork for everything that was done. Would that be a problem value wise?

[Richard Carver]

aaaand 20 years earlier, my current daily 1968 1603. This is the predecessor to your watch and the 16030. A well maintained vintage Rolex is as reliable as anything on the market. Steel doesn't get old and leak. :)

[CaveDweller]

As the watch you are considering is 10 years or so “younger” than mine, I have no idea why both the face and hands would have been replaced by Rolex, unless perhaps it was to renew the lume. The good news is, that as it was (apparently) done by Rolex, they will have used the correct parts for that particular time piece

Valuation of a Datejust is mostly dependant on two factors – originality and condition. Bling it out with diamonds and engrave the case, and you have a watch that is only worth its movement. But the DJ’s are not like a vintage Submariner, where the smallest change is not only noticeable, but can knock off some of the value. This is largely due (on the Submariner for instance) to the amount of detail on the faces, and the amount of lume, making changes easily detectable if you know what to look for. There are many threads on this board stating that “this is a mark three dial which doesn’t match that serial number, and you have service hands as well”. This can affect the price, as the price is so great to start off with

With a DJ, the dial you have on there now is going to be exactly the same as the original if replaced by Rolex, and it’s the same deal with the hands. The amount of lume is negligible compared to the Submariner, and there is almost no variation in dials over the manufacturing lifespan of your model. Add to that the end value, and it makes no difference to a DJ (the crystal if acrylic is replaced as standard at any service)

As for pricing, the selection of 16220’s on Ebay at the moment is about right – ignore the highest and the lowest, just pick the average ……