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Old 5 March 2015, 02:22 AM   #61
GB-man
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Originally Posted by Passionata View Post
please explain me , is it just a springbar which holds the strap in place in the clasp ?
any chance it slips out from its slot?
Yes, it does strike me as rather delicate, but I have not had any failures. I wouldn't dive off a cliff or ride a jet ski with it though.
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Old 5 March 2015, 04:13 AM   #62
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Yes, it does strike me as rather delicate, but I have not had any failures. I wouldn't dive off a cliff or ride a jet ski with it though.
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Old 21 July 2015, 06:49 AM   #63
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Thanks for this guide

Can I just ask a question

Is this the "proper" way to resize the strap? i.e. is this what an AD would do, or is it a "bodge" (don't mean to use this word insultingly but cant think of a different word - hopefully you will know what I mean)?

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Old 21 July 2015, 01:42 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by MrJ320 View Post
Congrats in advance! My wrist is 6.5" and I have 8 slots remaining on one end, and 6 slots remaining on the other end.

However, if you are picking up from the dealer why not have them size it for you?

Cheers,
James
My wrist is 6.5" to 6.6" and I have 9 slots on the twelve o'clock side and 7 slots on the opposing side. It is a bit loose now and if I were to balance it out, I would trim one slot from the 6 o'clock side.

As a general rule based on TRF members' experience, the Aquanaut sits more balanced with +2 slots on the 12 o'clock side of the strap. For example: 10 x 8 or 9 x 7 or 8 x 6, etc.

Thanks Puffy for illustrating the strap sizing with the tools as recommended. I would recommend scotch magic tape on the metal deployant clasps as you remove and install the spring bars.
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Old 2 March 2016, 11:24 AM   #65
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why patek cannot design a better strap? You have to cut the strap, come on! Patek
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Old 2 March 2016, 12:28 PM   #66
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I just received my 5167a Saturday, and sized it in around fifteen minutes. I found that a set of high quality scissors made it much easier than a utility knife or razor blade. I was shocked at how long the uncut strap is! I found it quite easy to adjust, just be methodical and take your time, removing sections one at a time from each side. I have mine fairly loose so it will move past my wrist bone without much effort, and the shape of the strap still keeps the watch stable and centered. I don't think there's anything wrong with the way the strap is adjusted, and it allows a precise fit with a little effort, without the excess strap that is sometimes a problem for those with smaller wrists, particularly with some deployant clasps.

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Old 30 July 2016, 03:20 AM   #67
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Sorry to revise this old thread, but its very helpful. Should be a sticky

Can you please tell me the name of the tool you are using to put the pin? It looks great.

Carlos
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Old 1 August 2016, 05:40 PM   #68
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Great job on the tutorial and very easy for me to follow.. Thank you! :)
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Old 4 September 2016, 03:37 PM   #69
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Bumping an old but useful thread.
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Old 11 September 2016, 06:21 AM   #70
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Hi guys, I'm selling a cut strap that measures 7.5cm for each (2.95 inches). It retails for AED 1,500 in Dubai (about USD 400) but I'm selling for USD 200 + 50 for shipping. Check out my ad in the classifieds thread. Let me know if this is a good price as I have no clue about the retail price outside of Dubai.

PS: I was told by the Patek boutique that the straps ends need to be identical in length (as opposed to Rolex) because the deployment buckle is symmetric and should come right below the watch when worn!
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Old 11 September 2016, 06:26 PM   #71
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Recently I bought a 5167A which had a strap already pre-cut for approximately a 7"wrist.
My wrist is about 6¾ inch, so I wore it for a while to see how the strap wore, incidentally the strap was cut, leaving 8 segments either side.
The watch wore loose when my wrist was cold, and naturally slightly better when warm.
In the end I bit the bullet and cut one further segment, from the 6 o'clock side and now it wears perfectly :))
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Old 13 September 2016, 07:23 AM   #72
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What's the expected life of the straps? I only had my Aquanaut for three years so far and had to cut one slot over the weekend because the strap felt looser than what I was used to. It has become more softer and flexible than when it was new. My concerns are strap breaking apart and my watch head being lost or dropping to the ground.
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Old 14 April 2017, 11:49 AM   #73
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Maybe a stupid question, but how do you remove the strap from the case? Is it as simple as taping one lug to avoid lug scratches? Then lifting the spring bar away one side and it comes off?
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Old 14 April 2017, 12:11 PM   #74
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I just used this post to cut my 5164r to size!

Thanks to all!
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Old 1 May 2017, 11:49 AM   #75
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I recently got a 5167 and sized the band myself. I'm wondering if I may have made a $250+ mistake.

When I sized it I got down to 7 on the 6 o'clock and 9 on the 12. The band was still loose enough to not keep the watch in place on my wrist. With the watch face centered on my wrist the clasp was still to the right of the center on the underside, so I cut the 6 o'clock side down to 6, making the band 6-9. I would say the band is on the tighter side, but not any more so than any other band I've had.

The issue is the clasp is now causing me a decent amount of discomfort for a band that's supposed to be one of the most comfortable. It feels like it is digging into the underside of my wrist along the edges of the clasp; more so on the 12 o'clock side. It seems like the clasp is just not as ergonomic around my wrist as I would expect.

For what it's worth, I put the watch on my right wrist (which is a little smaller) and it was still uncomfortable on the underside. It can move freely and I can still feel discomfort from the clasp.

Has anyone experienced this? Could this be from making it 6-9 vs 7-8? I'm guessing I will have to buy another band when it's all said and done, but maybe I'm missing something.

Thanks in advance.


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Old 1 May 2017, 12:03 PM   #76
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Unfortunately you will need a new band- maybe have the AD size it for you
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Old 1 May 2017, 12:29 PM   #77
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Unfortunately you will need a new band- maybe have the AD size it for you


I figured that would be the case, but I'm curious whether it is the length of each side rather than the total circumference. It seems odd that even when it isn't tight I can still feel the clasp on the other wrist. Here is the other wrist for reference




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Old 25 October 2017, 10:06 PM   #78
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nice tutorial.

once again find myself hovering around the 5167 threads

thanks Anders

just saw this ... all this years later ... you got an Aquanaut, you sold it ... now I got one and need to size the strap :)
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Old 26 October 2017, 12:31 AM   #79
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just saw this ... all this years later ... you got an Aquanaut, you sold it ... now I got one and need to size the strap :)
Its pretty simple.

The Salon did mine but a few weeks later I required another section cut off so did it myself
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Old 26 October 2017, 08:27 AM   #80
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I was able to easily do it without a spring bar tool. Your nail will work fine as all you are doing is placing the spring bar in a visible hole inside the clasp. I now have the spring bar tool but have not used it yet. I am scared to change out a strap on a Patek strap watch. I 'll let a watchmaker do that. Too bad as I did all the time years ago but the tolerances were not so tight on watches of low cost then.
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Old 27 October 2017, 07:47 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by Valedictorian View Post
Hi guys, I'm selling a cut strap that measures 7.5cm for each (2.95 inches). It retails for AED 1,500 in Dubai (about USD 400) but I'm selling for USD 200 + 50 for shipping. Check out my ad in the classifieds thread. Let me know if this is a good price as I have no clue about the retail price outside of Dubai.

PS: I was told by the Patek boutique that the straps ends need to be identical in length (as opposed to Rolex) because the deployment buckle is symmetric and should come right below the watch when worn!
I cut one more from one side for a more correct fit with no issues at all. I cut from 6 o'clock so the clasp would ride higher on the inside of my wrist not lower and bang into everything.
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Old 20 April 2019, 07:19 AM   #82
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This is very helpful! Thanks!
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Old 13 June 2019, 01:57 AM   #83
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Great thread. I just sized mine and will add my comments.

I have a 6.5” wrist and have 7 slots on the 6:00 side and 9 slots on the 12:00 side.

I started by cutting a couple sections with a scissors and found that with a touch up cut or two it looked fine. So although a razor would obviously be more even, the remaining cut end is hidden by the clasp so I did all cuts with scissors.

Remember that when the clasp is on, it will slightly change the contour of the strap (it will sit differently than when you just wrap the strap around your wrist). And the ends of the strap will basically touch end to end once in the clasp. So just cutting a couple sections off each side and then putting the buckle on made the watch/strap tighter than I anticipated with my small wrist. So to emphasize what everyone else has said GO SLOWLY.

So the only question that I can’t answer is whether I’d be happier with a 6/10 configuration or the current 7/9. The clasp is a little off-centered towards the 12:00 side still but looking at the curvature of my wrist and the double deployant clasp, it seems to follow my wrist’s shape very well right now and it is very comfortable.


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Old 13 June 2019, 01:03 PM   #84
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I was a stickler with the straps on my 5167, 5168 and my wife’s 5067: I like both sides to be as even as possible, with no more than 1 notch more or less on each side.

My OCD ...
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Old 13 June 2019, 01:41 PM   #85
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I was a stickler with the straps on my 5167, 5168 and my wife’s 5067: I like both sides to be as even as possible, with no more than 1 notch more or less on each side.



My OCD ...


Yeah but then didn’t the clasp end up being way off center? I think a three section difference would perfectly center it on my wrist


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Old 10 August 2021, 10:08 PM   #86
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Seems like this thread gets revived every couple of years. Can anyone explain the reason why shorter 6 o'clock makes sense? It seems some people do equal sizing on both sides.

I have a 6.75" inch wrist. I have 9 at 12 o'clock and 7 at 6 o'clock. It seems centered to be, but I'm unsure and can't explain it. I'm considering getting another strap, just to try 8-8 and see how that is.

More out of curiosity just want to understand the scientific reason why 9-7 works better than 8-8
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Old 11 August 2021, 01:08 AM   #87
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Seems like this thread gets revived every couple of years. Can anyone explain the reason why shorter 6 o'clock makes sense? It seems some people do equal sizing on both sides.

I have a 6.75" inch wrist. I have 9 at 12 o'clock and 7 at 6 o'clock. It seems centered to be, but I'm unsure and can't explain it. I'm considering getting another strap, just to try 8-8 and see how that is.

More out of curiosity just want to understand the scientific reason why 9-7 works better than 8-8
I think because of our wrist shape aren't exactly symmetrical, on 12 o'clock side tend to be a bit bigger than 6 o'clock side.
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Old 11 August 2021, 04:44 AM   #88
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I think because of our wrist shape aren't exactly symmetrical, on 12 o'clock side tend to be a bit bigger than 6 o'clock side.
I just did an experiment with a piece of tape and that's definitely right. So how are people wearing watches with symmetric straps!? I guess maybe some people have less asymmetric wrists?
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Old 9 April 2022, 04:52 AM   #89
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Does anyone know the size of the spring bar used for the strap to clasp? Mine flew away.
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