Visit to Geneva Patek Salon - A Horological Journey

[nyc2la]

2 great reviews - 2 great references! Thanks!

[FlatlineEF9]

Great reviews. Thank you. What you/they said about the aquanaut is so true. "entry level" but I will definitely stick with the brand after my 5167. Looking at a nautilus next. The rose gold 5167 is one of my favorite pateks right now.

[hrm]

Great post. A pleasure to read. Thanks for sharing.

[RussW]

Wow, I've been on holiday for a week and come back to this amazing post. What a great read. Thanks Ben

[le-temps]

Fantastic review...keep them coming please

[BLACKHORSE 6]

Great reviews. Thanks, and can't wait to read what's coming next. This has been one of the most informative and enjoyable threads I've read in a while.

[benlee]

Many thanks for all the positive comments! Apologies for the lack of update as I was on a business trip and just back today. Plan to update this thread tomorrow.

[benlee]

Patek 5270G Perpetual Calendar Chronograph blue Dial

Patek’s range of Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Grand Complication watches have always been the brand’s most iconic references and a collector’s dream piece. The range has evolved over the decades in size and styling from the first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ( in short PPC ) Reference 1518 but the basic design elements remains strictly adhering to Patek’s design principals.

The Patek 5270G was first introduced in Baselworld 2011 and reception was frankly not that enthusiastic as it was a follow up to Patek’s most popular PPC, aka the 5970 series and has big shoes to fill. Patek purist criticized the oversized case and the lack of a tachometer. Even until today, fairly or unfairly, the 5970 still commands a better resale value and higher “collectability” compared to the 5270.




However, the 5270 does boast the first PPC to feature Patek’s in-house developed Perpetual Calendar Chronograph movement, aka the Caliber CH 29-535. Developed entirely in-house by Patek, the movement technically boast better accuracy, longer power reserve and a stop second feature compared to the older Lemania based movement. In fact, Patek is so confident and proud of the 5270 movement superiority, it actually published a book on it to explain the movement various distinguished features ( and I was luckily given one ). Of course, the watch features the Patek seal and the movement is finished meticulously as expected of all Patek watches.





The 2014 re-release of the Patek 5270G features a new blue dial and a tachymeter. Now, introducing the tachymeter into the dial causes a few problems, the most noticeable is the “dip” on the tachymeter scale at 6 o’clock position that upsets the symmetry of the watch. I asked Madam Marielle why Patek choose to do that and the explanation was that the “dip” or pregnant dial design was ultimately necessary to fit the movement and sub-dials with the tachymeter without expanding the case size. Apparently, the tachymeter was re-introduced to the 5270 series because many Patek customers complained about the lack of it in the previous 5270G incarnation and that made the watch dial looks “too plain”. In the end, it is a compromise of sort and whether this undermines the watch overall aesthetics is a question of personal taste.








The blue dial 5270G color hues can best be described as “bluish grey”, and changes according to surrounding light. It is an impressive looking watch as expected of a Patek PPC and wears very comfortably. I love the 41mm size and the added wrist presence. My personal preference is that I still preferred the older 5270G without the tachymeter as I love the overall balance symmetry.



Here's a picture of the movement





Another interesting question I posed to Madam Marielle is whether Patek finished grand complications with more refinement and effort compared to the complicated and other ranges. The answer was rather surprising. All Patek watches are hand finished and polished with the same degree of care and effort whether it is a simple Calatrava or a 6 digit figure grand complication watch. The difference one pay for is more the added function of the complicated movement as well the additional finishing required on the movement itself.

To learn more about Patek's PPC, I highly recommend watching the Hodinkee youtube video below :


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EGGHeX8eLw

Next up, the Split Second Chronograph PPC 5204P. To be Continued!

[texex91]

Giving me a lot of good ideas Ben! Keep the reports coming...I'm hoping to see an incoming at the end!

[HL65]

Superb Ben! Thanks for sharing...Cheers,

[conkers]

Great write up Ben. Not sure her Jay Leno chin explanation works that well when you take into account the 5271........

[iazrollie]

Best thread ever. I still don't understand the rationale for the "dip." Why couldnt the font of the tachymeter be in the same style as the original minute numbers on the older version???

[AK797]

[RussW]

Another fantastic report. You must have had such a great time.

[Vipes]

Awesome post! Keep them coming! Thanks!!

[lipjin]

I like the dip:) awaiting more write ups! Been a great thread thus far. Did u get a chance to try the minute repeaters?

[hdrazor251]

Great write up

[Nephro]

Truly an amazing thread! Thank you for taking the time to do this

[myopiccoog]

Agree! They nailed it with the 5271 dial!

Originally Posted by conkers

Great write up Ben. Not sure her Jay Leno chin explanation works that well when you take into account the 5271........

[benlee]

Patek 5204P Split Second Perpetual Calendar Chronograph


The heir apparent to the highly collectible and admired 5004P is the 5204P Split Second Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, which was first launched at Baselworld 2012. That’s a rather impressive sounding title/description for a watch. In essence, it is Patek incorporating a second chronograph so that one can time two consecutive events at once. As to how often or practical one will actually use such a complication is debatable but complications are there to be admired and most will just appreciate the complexity and finesse to incorporate such mechanical marvels into their watches. In 2014, Patek introduce a black opaline dial version to add to the collection. That’s the one I had the chance to preview during my visit.





The watch has a 40mm case and has Patek’s inhouse CHR 29-535 PS Q movement. It a manual winding movement with a Gyromax balance beating at 28,800 bph and has a power reserve of 65 hours. The technology and effort to incorporate such a complicated movement is "mind blowingly" impressive considering how small all the parts are and they were assembled by hand. The movement itself is highly detailed and finely decorated and finished when looked under a loupe. It is just a pleasure to look at. See for yourself. I really wish I had brought alone my Nikon DSLR microlens to do this movement shots justice.









The watch comes with piston pushers to activate ( start / stop / reset ) the chronograph functions and is silky smooth to operate. The black dial contrast very well with the white indexes and digits and the watch is very legible despite displaying quite a lot of information. Day/Month is in aperture windows and date is on a circular dial with a moonphase indicator. Fortunately no "dip" on the dial so the dial's overall symmetry is well preserved. But for those so inclined, there is also no tachymeter.

The exterior platinum case has a great silvery white shine to it, something only platinum can do. It’s really a piece of art as any movement when wearing the watch means the case sways and plays with the surrounding light that falls on it’s finely polished case to visually stunning effect. I will let the pictures do the talking!








The watch wears kind of small for me but that is because I am quite use to big watches but is nevertheless very refine and elegant. The platinum has extra weight but in no way does wearing the watch cause any discomfort. Patek is renowned for designing their watches to be worn comfortably for everyday, not just to look beautiful.

Overall, I am really impressed by this watch. Despite it's size, it is larger than life visually and a true horological treasure for any aspiring collectors. It is also an application piece so it is not easy to come by or try out in real life.

Patek has just published their hard cover 175th Anniversary Catalog and it is a must have for any PP collectors. I was presented a copy during my visit. Copies should already be in the process of being distributed to all Salons and ADs.




Run to your AD and request....no, Demand a copy now!


To Be Continued! Next - something very Exciting and Rare!

[texex91]

Fantastic...awaiting the next chapter.

[JorgeCCW]

Awesome !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[conkers]

A very impressive piece indeed!

[AK797]

Gorgeousness and gorgeousity made flesh is this thread.

[FlyinM3]

Just stunning....

[orangedial]

This thread is EPIC
Thanks buddy

[el1125]

Great write up. Epic piece. the moon phase pops/contrasts more on the white dial version. Both great indeed. Thanks

[el1125]

And the SuperLuminova is the icing on top

[HL65]

Great write up Ben and love that 5204P!!!! Soooo nice! I am actually headed to my AD today to pick up my book. Thanks for sharing...Cheers,

[HauteHorlogerie]

Awesome that black dial 5204P is perfect.