Are we witnessing a silent resurgence of the dress watch?

[aparker973]

There are such great "bargains" out there in the dress watch world.

From an investment POV, I don't know or care if they'd go up in value. But from a bang for your buck POV, I love the variety that's available at less than ridiculous prices. (I'm not speaking necessarilly about Patek specifically, just in general for luxury dress).

[SBC1986]

Originally Posted by aparker973

there are such great "bargains" out there in the dress watch world.

From an investment pov, i don't know or care if they'd go up in value. But from a bang for your buck pov, i love the variety that's available at less than ridiculous prices. (i'm not speaking necessarilly about patek specifically, just in general for luxury dress).

100%

[Nav01L]

Originally Posted by ndrs63

It’s not just about scratches. Would you wear a Calatrava to the beach? You will take it off even when you take a shower or go for a bike ride


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Seeing as you could buy about 6-8 5196s for the price of one Nautilus, one could take up to 7 showers before you’d have caught up, or 3 trips to the beach and 4 showers...

In all seriousness though, I doubt many 5711s go to the beach anymore these days. And if they ever go to the shower then only with reluctance because the escort the wearer was trying to impress would otherwise rip it from the bedside table and dash off...

[timewarped80]

Are the Patek 6119’s going to be in high demand?

[David001]

Originally Posted by Nav01L

Seeing as you could buy about 6-8 5196s for the price of one Nautilus, one could take up to 7 showers before you’d have caught up, or 3 trips to the beach and 4 showers...

In all seriousness though, I doubt many 5711s go to the beach anymore these days. And if they ever go to the shower then only with reluctance because the escort the wearer was trying to impress would otherwise rip it from the bedside table and dash off...

Lol, that was my thought too.

I don't shower with any watch on, and if I was going to do something that might cause damage to any of my watches I'd take it off.

Putting a Nautilus on so you don't damage your Calatrava is a strange decision.

[Santiago32]

Does a 5524R count as a dress watch? That’s about as dressy as I’ll go.

[jumpingjackflash]

In my thoughts, a dress watch is a three handed watch that is slim and simple. Exactly the opposite on the current trend. They will continue to decline into oblivion. Just like the pocket watch did in the 1920s.

But I will continue to wear my dress watch daily.

[S``]

The only thing that's silent is the SAs, when people ask to buy a three hander nautilus or aquanaut.

[Ichiran]

Originally Posted by Santiago32

Does a 5524R count as a dress watch? That’s about as dressy as I’ll go.

If you manage get the 5524 without much wait from your AD, it is considered a dress watch.

[S``]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

If you manage get the 5524 without much wait from your AD, it is considered a dress watch.

Silent smiles when the transaction is paid at RRP by the SAs

[qrc36]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

If you manage get the 5524 without much wait from your AD, it is considered a dress watch.

Last week, the 5524G was sitting in the window of 2 of the 4 ADs along the street where I work (there are 5 ADs within 5 minutes walking distance).

So yes, there's zero wait for the 5524G dress watch here in Hong Kong.

[azizu]

great post OP
and to answer your question for patek only, i believe yes there will be a migration back from steel to complicated watches.
it started few years back with the introduction of reduced elegance/increased casualness designs: in 2006 the 5146 with more practical arabic numerals took over from the out going high elegance roman numerals, in 2015 the introduction of 5524 (which surprisingly seems like a tool watch fro pilots), then in 2017 the amazing 5320 was introduced merging the design ques of vintage and modern (a watch that Thierry Stern said that his son could wear as well as his father).
2019 witnessed very strong move in the direction of introducing more sporty/casual looking high complication watches: the 5520P (which is essentially a casual looking alarm watch using minute repeater technology), the 5172 manual wound chrono with sporty/casual looking design, and finally perhaps on of the most obvious moves was the release of the steel 5212.
after 2019 i started thinking that patek is really trying to take considerable steps to draw the attention of watch lovers away from nautilus and into its main lines.
when the steel 5711 was pronounced as the runout of 2021 it was confirmed to me.
i was interested to see what Patek will introduce to fill that gap. they didn't disappoint in the 5326, 6119 or the 4947 which might attract big interest.

i don't deny that living in hot/humid country will drive me towards favoring a steel watch (which i do), but there is nothing like the feeling of wearing patek grand complication on a well made leather strap

Edit: forgot mentioning the 5960 in 2014 and the 5905 in 2015

[azizu]

Originally Posted by Rebel

My wife gave me a really nice Citizen Eco-Drive dress watch on a mesh strap. I wear it with my suit on Sundays, etc. I'm a United Methodist Pastor and wear a suit for Church and other related activities. The dress watch for me is preferred over my Tudor Submariner.

a lovely 6119R would look great on you with the suit

[Billfav]

Very well stated Azizu, agree with all in your reply especially this!

[QUOTE=azizu;11414428]
i don't deny that living in hot/humid country will drive me towards favoring a steel watch (which i do), but there is nothing like the feeling of wearing patek grand complication on a well made leather strap

[ragsk]

Partly the dress watch models need to modernise a bit. Manual wind PCs are just stupid in todays day and age and not many have time to deal with the shenanigans. For example I would love to get a 5270P or R but who is going to deal with the pain of regularly resetting or winding it?

[broca00]

Originally Posted by ragsk

Partly the dress watch models need to modernise a bit. Manual wind PCs are just stupid in todays day and age and not many have time to deal with the shenanigans. For example I would love to get a 5270P or R but who is going to deal with the pain of regularly resetting or winding it?

I can appreciate but respectfully disagree with most of your sentiment. Take the 5270P as an example. Yes, you are right, it can be a pain having to regularly reset the date if not worn on a regular basis. But, for some including me, the appeal is setting the dates and manually winding these timepieces. Also, personally, I often forget to set the time much less the date as I enjoy simply just wearing it. IMO, 5270P and many current dress watches are modern vintage inspired timepieces. Cheers!

[NYG1121]

I think the more contemporary dress watches are gaining popularity. I see a lot of interest in leather strap watches with larger case dimensions to allow for a more casual look. I think this may have been the intent of AP CODE line.

[LJubel328]

Interesting perspective OP. Your post came just a day after I saw Travis Scott wearing a 5131g.

I believe celebrity stylists are continually looking into avenues that will differentiate their client from every other celebrity on the red carpet (this goes for clothing and accessories, alike). These stylists want to set themselves apart from the hoard of other SS Rolexs and Pateks on the red carpets, in the magazines, and social media. To do so they steer their clients down the complication route--which personally, I enjoy seeing and appreciate.

I'm not saying there will be a mass exodus out of sports and back to dress; however, I do believe that as timepieces have become more mainstream due to social media new collectors will begin to experiment with different references to find their niche and interests. While sports models may have been what initially led these new collectors to the watch world as they evolve they could find themselves preferring dress.

[ragsk]

Originally Posted by broca00

I can appreciate but respectfully disagree with most of your sentiment. Take the 5270P as an example. Yes, you are right, it can be a pain having to regularly reset the date if not worn on a regular basis. But, for some including me, the appeal is setting the dates and manually winding these timepieces. Also, personally, I often forget to set the time much less the date as I enjoy simply just wearing it. IMO, 5270P and many current dress watches are modern vintage inspired timepieces. Cheers!

Everyone has their preferences and i respect yours of course.

But the current generation on average don't have time for any of that. It's just unwanted hassle. If dress watches want to entice the new generation they need to make some adjustments. Honestly don't think watches likes the 5270 are the way forward. They are a a dying breed.

And I may still buy a 5270 as I truly love it. Just the hassle factor is putting me off.

[ragsk]

Originally Posted by NYG1121

I think the more contemporary dress watches are gaining popularity. I see a lot of interest in leather strap watches with larger case dimensions to allow for a more casual look. I think this may have been the intent of AP CODE line.

This may well be true.

[Calatrava r]

I think the comment that dress watches may be part of a bundle or bought to build an AD relationship pretty well sums it up. Many people love strap watches but to me they are not the desired look at the moment by the crowds. Plus, the depreciation factor is a huge issue on the higher end pieces. Many people want to re-coup all their money and even make some on a watch today. Very easy to understand when high end watches cost what they do.

[Ellipse]

The Calatrava is probably one of the best-selling watches at Patek comparable to the Datejust at Rolex. I don't think the Calatrava will be the Nautilus of tomorrow since it is already one of the stars. That said, wearing a Patek Philippe Calatrava is not a question of age but of state of mind, traditions, simplicity and elegance. You don't have to be old (what is the definition of old?) To have the pleasure of wearing such a dress watch. Ryan Gosling understood this well when he made the choice to wear a Calatrava 5196 in the movie "Drive" it was for him and for the director a link with the past, a link with his father. We have to believe that the 1996 advertising still works just as well and in 2019 the Swiss brand renewed the advertising by now focusing on a younger, more female, and a little more relaxed clientele, by accentuating the links between fathers and sons or mothers and daughters. The question is, who can afford a dress watch for more than 20,000 Swiss francs? Not many young people

[djona]

Originally Posted by Ellipse

The Calatrava is probably one of the best-selling watches at Patek comparable to the Datejust at Rolex. I don't think the Calatrava will be the Nautilus of tomorrow since it is already one of the stars. That said, wearing a Patek Philippe Calatrava is not a question of age but of state of mind, traditions, simplicity and elegance. You don't have to be old (what is the definition of old?) To have the pleasure of wearing such a dress watch. Ryan Gosling understood this well when he made the choice to wear a Calatrava 5196 in the movie "Drive" it was for him and for the director a link with the past, a link with his father. We have to believe that the 1996 advertising still works just as well and in 2019 the Swiss brand renewed the advertising by now focusing on a younger, more female, and a little more relaxed clientele, by accentuating the links between fathers and sons or mothers and daughters. The question is, who can afford a dress watch for more than 20,000 Swiss francs? Not many young people

I believe Gosling wore a fake Patek in “Drive.”

[kaiserphoenix]

I think a resurgence is probably abit too strong of a word. But I do think "interest" in movements in general have increased so the total pie might be larger. But lifestyle wise i doubt we will see the dress watch category overwhelm the sport category which i do not see dying out for the foreseeable future.

For me this served me well as I managed to snag a 5231J 2021 watch for around 100K USD which I find to be an acceptable premium :)

[jamestucker]

Originally Posted by kaiserphoenix

I think a resurgence is probably abit too strong of a word. But I do think "interest" in movements in general have increased so the total pie might be larger. But lifestyle wise i doubt we will see the dress watch category overwhelm the sport category which i do not see dying out for the foreseeable future.

For me this served me well as I managed to snag a 5231J 2021 watch for around 100K USD which I find to be an acceptable premium :)

Congrats on the 5231J

[kaiserphoenix]

Originally Posted by jamestucker

Congrats on the 5231J

Thank you James! Its a beauty!

[Murcielagoboy2]

Originally Posted by ragsk

Everyone has their preferences and i respect yours of course.

But the current generation on average don't have time for any of that. It's just unwanted hassle. If dress watches want to entice the new generation they need to make some adjustments. Honestly don't think watches likes the 5270 are the way forward. They are a a dying breed.

And I may still buy a 5270 as I truly love it. Just the hassle factor is putting me off.

I wouldn't presume to speak for the "current generation" - frankly I don't know even know if I'm included in that cohort!!

What I will say though is Do NOT let something like the hassle of setting a watch put you off. I quite agree with the previous poster that setting the watch is part of the ritual of putting wearing it. Once you know how to do it, it takes only a few minutes, if that, and the Plat 5270 in particular is just such a brilliant looking thing that could be worn with a suit or a jeans/t shirt.

Nautilus etc is a faddish distraction - The PCC is the sine qua non to Patek. Go for it!

[Ahhuat]

Originally Posted by timewarped80

Are the Patek 6119’s going to be in high demand?

Same thought .will 6119 be the usual calatrava that does 30% once you step out of AD shop or this will be the 'one' at least hold it's value ?

[HMHM]

The 6119 will initially maintain its value but long term proposition remains to be seen. Curious to see how TS pull this off like Rolex Oyster Perpetual demand and supply situation or allow it to tank in the secondary market.

[bob101]

Originally Posted by ragsk

Everyone has their preferences and i respect yours of course.

But the current generation on average don't have time for any of that. It's just unwanted hassle. If dress watches want to entice the new generation they need to make some adjustments. Honestly don't think watches likes the 5270 are the way forward. They are a a dying breed.

And I may still buy a 5270 as I truly love it. Just the hassle factor is putting me off.