Some thoughts on perpetual calendars

[thomaspp]

Recently I previewed a very beautiful Ref 3448 in white gold from 1975. A true grail watch that hides a lot of complexity beneath a very clean and simple dial and case. It was quite magical on the wrist.



But it got me thinking again about Ref. 5320. Ref. 3448 has no leap year indicator but is in a 38.5 mm case. Ref. 3445 is different to Ref. 3448 as it has a leap year indicator but therefore makes the dial "offcentered".



The 5320 has a leap year indicator and on top of that has a day/night indicator (which although rather useless, gives the dial nice symmetry). I think in the larger case of the Ref. 5320, the leap year and day/night look good and balanced. The watch is interesting as it combines a sporty look with luminescent markers and hands, but at the same time is a very classical complication with clear vintage lineage.




I look forward to seeing some "incomings" here in the future.

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[Calatrava r]

I have not heard if the 5320 has started to ship. I understand now some ADs are being told a few weeks until deliveries. I personally love the set-up on the 5320 but need to see the cream dial to make a decision. I really think the new reference will look really good in a stick dial with dauphine hands.

[jon_jon]

Both the 3448 and 3450 in WG were produced in very small numbers as most of the 3448/3450 were produced in a YG case back then. Their rarity is what makes them sell at quite a premium at auction.

I once asked a vintage Patek specialist how do you know what leap year cycle you are on with the 3448 and he said you get the leap year set correctly during service and don't let the watch stop

The 5320 certainly has a vintage characteristic to it. Even the cream dial is more traditional vs the popular blue/black dials of modern watches. Interesting feature are the luminescent hands. I can't remember the last time Patek produced luminescent hands on a PC. I know the 5204 has luminescent hands, but it is uncommon to see that in any dress watch, let alone a complicated watch. The 5320 has its charm, but I suspect it will appeal more to the purists.

[soundserious]

Beautiful watches. Nobody does this complication better than Patek imho.

[thomaspp]

Originally Posted by jon_jon

Both the 3448 and 3450 in WG were produced in very small numbers as most of the 3448/3450 were produced in a YG case back then. Their rarity is what makes them sell at quite a premium at auction.



I once asked a vintage Patek specialist how do you know what leap year cycle you are on with the 3448 and he said you get the leap year set correctly during service and don't let the watch stop



The 5320 certainly has a vintage characteristic to it. Even the cream dial is more traditional vs the popular blue/black dials of modern watches. Interesting feature are the luminescent hands. I can't remember the last time Patek produced luminescent hands on a PC. I know the 5204 has luminescent hands, but it is uncommon to see that in any dress watch, let alone a complicated watch. The 5320 has its charm, but I suspect it will appeal more to the purists.

Thank you! Funny funny re the leap year!

Well yes, we can’t compare much of any pateks production numbers from the 1970s or earlier to what it is today.

Patek seems to have moved clearly in the direction of creating sportier dress Watches (see 5370p too and others). I would venture to say that most don’t want pure, slim, dress Watches (not my case).

Originally Posted by Calatrava r

I have not heard if the 5320 has started to ship. I understand now some ADs are being told a few weeks until deliveries. I personally love the set-up on the 5320 but need to see the cream dial to make a decision. I really think the new reference will look really good in a stick dial with dauphine hands.

I haven’t seen any in the wild anywhere but did see the non working model at an event. The dial is an off White that’s quite appealing actually.




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[rootbeer7]

The 5320 is just beautiful. I've just put house, kids and dog up for sale.

[KarlS]

5320 is currently mid-November

[martinr]

Two things I'm not sure I like on the 5320, the hands and the little lumed markers at 5:00 and 7:00. I like the case and lugs though. Leap year is pointless but I guess it tradition.

[jfriedkin]

the dial and hands of the 5320 are stunning. A real look back the PP's past. This could very well be a sleeper.

[Tony64]

Originally Posted by martinr

Two things I'm not sure I like on the 5320, the hands and the little lumed markers at 5:00 and 7:00. I like the case and lugs though. Leap year is pointless but I guess it tradition.

Not pointless at all IMO; quite the contrary. The leap year is what makes the PC, requiring correction for date only once every 100 years.

In more practical terms, the leap year indicator allows the wearer to easily select the correct leap year cycle, thereby allowing the proper 28,29 day correction each February. Without that indicator, I'd have much trepidation trying to accurately set this watch.

[martinr]

Thanks Tony64, I learned something new, and glad you didn't tell me to take a flying leap!

[Tony64]

Thomas, not withstanding my comments above regarding the leap year indicator, your 3448 is an absolutely gorgeous example of what Patek does (did?) best! Congratulations on finding such a terrific timepiece to add to your already enviable collection.

Regarding the 5320, I remain undecided. Not a fan of the lume on this watch, and while I greatly appreciate vintage watches I'm not sure yet how I feel towards these vintage recreations.

[thomaspp]

Originally Posted by Tony64

Thomas, not withstanding my comments above regarding the leap year indicator, your 3448 is an absolutely gorgeous example of what Patek does (did?) best! Congratulations on finding such a terrific timepiece to add to your already enviable collection.

Regarding the 5320, I remain undecided. Not a fan of the lume on this watch, and while I greatly appreciate vintage watches I'm not sure yet how I feel towards these vintage recreations.

Hey, thanks Tony. Its not mine. It will be in the Phillips auction coming up later this week.

[dardeca]

I'm a big fan of the 5320!!!

[KarlS]

Think the watch sucks and I am discouraging members from buying

[dardeca]

Originally Posted by KarlS

Think the watch sucks and I am discouraging members from buying

[Calatrava r]

Originally Posted by martinr

Two things I'm not sure I like on the 5320, the hands and the little lumed markers at 5:00 and 7:00. I like the case and lugs though. Leap year is pointless but I guess it tradition.

Its fun to set a PC where there is no leap year indication. Best improvement they made on them other than the external push correctors.

[Calatrava r]

Originally Posted by KarlS

Think the watch sucks and I am discouraging members from buying

Don't say that, even in jest. You will own one and should always hope they are rare and hard to get due to the pent up demand.

[KarlS]

Originally Posted by Calatrava r

Don't say that, even in jest. You will own one and should always hope they are rare and hard to get due to the pent up demand.

It will be rare if nobody buys them!!! Look at my collection and you will see most of my watches are watches I like abd not following the latest hyped up craze!!

[AlexWazo]

Every PC is amazing! I love my 5327 but that 3448...gorgeous. I really do like what they did with the 5320. The modern, vintage vibe it exudes is fantastic and I love the lume!

[jfriedkin]

I don't see this watch as even close to a "re-creation". I don't think that PP ever made a PC with syringe hands and lume markers.

This is a very understated watch.

[jfriedkin]

I take back my last comment. Ref 1591 a direct relative. Of course you need about $2.5M for that one.

[Tony64]

Originally Posted by jfriedkin

I don't see this watch as even close to a "re-creation". I don't think that PP ever made a PC with syringe hands and lume markers.

This is a very understated watch.

Speaking only for myself, I interpret "vintage recreation" a bit more loosely. Not necessarily a recreation of a specific watch from past catalogues, but more generally a modern watch with elements specifically chosen to evoke a "vintage" look.

Many manufacture have done this with varying degrees of success. Jaeger LeCoultre did it with their diver's chrono, Omega with their seamaster, and many others using vintage design elements and faux patina.

Sometimes I like it, but most times not.