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3 December 2019, 02:14 PM | #1 |
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(Help) GMT Master II
Purchased this GMT master from a grey market dealer that sort of rubbed me the wrong way, no box or papers, but the price was good.
I attached photos for a second opinion. I blurred out the serial number and band number for obvious reasons (though it is a scrambled serial model). It sure seems like a genuine Rolex, but I'm concerned if the experts see any "red flags" with this one. I've read horror stories about frankenwatches, improper polishing, aftermarket parts, and the like, and want to make sure I didn't just purchase a lemon. I have three days to return the watch, so would appreciate any thoughts people had. IMGUR album is at imgur /a/JXd9WcL Thanks in advance, Eugene |
3 December 2019, 02:48 PM | #2 |
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(Help) GMT Master II
No box or papers and cheap price? Pass.
The dial is noticeably different from my 116710LN purchased new from an AD in 2007. I also noticed something different on the clasp as well but it could be a shadow. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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4 December 2019, 01:32 AM | #3 |
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suspect to me
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4 December 2019, 02:04 AM | #4 |
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Thanks for the feedback. Any particular reason why its suspect or things I should look out for if I buy another one?
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4 December 2019, 02:11 AM | #5 |
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Suspect? Please do tell. OP I’m no expert, but looks real too me
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4 December 2019, 02:29 AM | #6 |
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Looks ok to me?
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4 December 2019, 02:36 AM | #7 |
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One thing Ive learnt is the deal seems too good to be true then it most likely is. Just looking from the pics nothing jumps out to say fake. Whats the story behind the no papers or box?
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4 December 2019, 04:23 AM | #8 |
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Looks ok
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4 December 2019, 04:25 AM | #9 |
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$8,500, so not too out of line with what they're going for.
It's a dealer that's somewhat well established, but they couldn't tell me anything about the history, service history, or why they didn't have the box/papers. |
4 December 2019, 04:30 AM | #10 |
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I paid $8,500, so it's not too out of line with what they go for.
The dealer is established and has a physical location, as well. They couldn't tell me anything about the watch though, no previous owner info, no service/repair history, nothing. They also didn't tell me where they got the watch from or why they didn't get the box and papers with it. |
12 December 2019, 11:33 PM | #11 |
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As far as pictures go, it looks real. I've had this model. I'm not sure why the other members expressed options without giving you any facts or arguments to support their claims.
My argumentsare the following: - first thing is you need to get a jeweller's lupe. You can't inspect a watch without it, it's an absolute must. Learn how to use it, plenty of videos on youtube. - as far as I can tell numbers on bezel are in glittery platinum - that's good. Fakes are filled in with cheap silver paint which sometimes runs slightly outside the numbers, but you need a lupe to see this. Plenty of comparison videos on youtube versus high-end fake bezels. - dial looks ok. White gold surrounds look fine. You need the lupe to check lume and text print. Again, refer to comparison videos. - white gold hands look ok. please inspect fluorescent material with the lupe. Fake ones will be very flat, real ones are not. Plenty of videos on youtube on these too. - bracelet, case, clasp look within Rolex spec - polish, brushing gaps. The best fakes are almost impossible to tell though, so you need to have experience with "feel" of real Rolex bracelet. With experience you could tell with your eyes closed, just by feeling and bye listening. Another good way to tell is to google the 3-digit code as normally known replica ones are posted online. Same goes for the serial of the case. The rest cannot be judged from images unfortunately. - how does the rotation of the bezel sound? You need to have a real one side by side to hear any differences - how does the winding action feel? Again you need a second watch - How does the ticking sound next to your ear in a quiet room? More experience with Rolexes is needed for this one. Or the caseback needs to be opened to check for a clone movement or any aftermarket parts (jewels, rotor, spring, bolts, etc). - These days almost all fakes have a Laser Etched Crown (LEC) at 6 o'clock.. Got this lupe yet? Check the LEC is correct - the genuine one should be perfect, unlike the ones of the fakes that never look great under magnification. It's complex so I'd take it to a good Rolex specialist to or best an RSC who will be answer all of these questions. Normal jewelers don't care much, so they may give you the wrong answer, or won't check all of these things. And remember, it could be a genuine watch, but with a fake bracelet, clone movement, aftermarket parts (movement, clasp, links, ceramic, bezel crystal) etc, so you need to check ALL of these. You have to treat this as if you're buying a car or a motorcycle - plenty of stuff to go through before you go for it, right? With all respect to the other members who expressed opinions - you have to be thorough before potentially misleading someone with an unqualified response. |
13 December 2019, 03:13 AM | #12 |
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Watch is genuine.
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13 December 2019, 12:28 PM | #13 |
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Hand stack is correct. Date wheel looks ok. Bezel paint looks on point. SEL looks fine. I can’t see what’s wrong with it to be honest but I guess the ultimate clue is taking the back off and checking the movement.
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13 December 2019, 01:25 PM | #14 |
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Two more things to try that a 3186 movement will pass:
- When changing the hour hand, the GMT hand shouldn't wiggle at all - A full rotation of the crown moves the hour hand by ~8-9 hours |
13 December 2019, 02:01 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
Wait — you already bought it, the dealer rubbed you the wrong way, no BP, and now you’re seeking some guidance? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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15 December 2019, 12:36 AM | #16 |
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Watch looks genuine to me.
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15 December 2019, 01:41 AM | #17 |
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16 December 2019, 07:14 AM | #18 |
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(Help) GMT Master II
I noticed two things immediately compared to mine purchased new in 2007 from an AD. This unit has also been serviced twice at the NYC RSC, so it’s legitimate. Possibly these small things have changed, just my $0.02. And yes my second hand has engaged the minute hand since the last service, probably in a motorcycle accident, but it’s still running within COSC specs.
Differences from the OP’s reference: Font spacing under Rolex. No hole in beak on clasp. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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