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Old 19 February 2008, 07:08 AM   #1
Ed Rooney
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Rooney Rolex Review - Sub, Sub Date, Sea-Dweller

Since October of 2007 I have had the good fortune to own and wear all three current versions of the venerable Rolex Submariner. In quick succession I purchased a Submariner model 14060M, 16610 and a Sea-Dweller 16600. I lump the Sea-Dweller into this group because I consider it a blood member of the Submariner family. I realize this is a fairly short period of time, but it let me form opinions about each model without having to reach into the deep recesses of my memory. Hopefully this review will be sufficiently in-depth to provide insights to knowledgeable Rolex enthusiasts, while also providing useful opinions to a prospective buyer considering their first purchase.
The cosmetic appeal of these three watches is very similar. All have the classic black elapsed-time bezel, glossy black dial and brushed stainless-steel oyster bracelet that almost every other dive watch manufacturer has copied at some point. If you like this look, simply read on and pick your poison.

History

14060M (also known as the No-Date Sub): The least costly of the Submariner range, the 14060M is also the most true to the Sub’s legacy as a no-nonsense tool watch for aquatic activities. The 14060M is a direct descendant of the tough military-issue Rolexes as well as the legendary James Bond versions. It’s predecessor was the preferred timepiece of no less a figure than Steve McQueen, which should provide sufficient man-credibility for any living diver, race-car driver, adventurer, accountant, cop, chef, soldier, explorer, barrista or gambler.

16610 (also known as the Sub Date): Easily Rolex’s most popular sport watch, the 16610 and its predecessors have been in existence since the mid-1960’s, when Rolex decided to add its popular date feature to the Submariner to enhance its commercial popularity. If you can imagine a bunch of Rolex WIS’ discussing the relative merits of their GMT-Masters and Datejusts over pints, wishing that Rolex would add a date and a Cyclops to the Sub, you probably have a pretty good idea of the Sub Date’s genesis.

16600 (Sea-Dweller): The Sea-Dweller is arguably the king of the old-school bezel diver watches. Its existence is purely the result of Comex company requirements for its professional divers. Rolex co-developed and patented the Helium Escape Valve for this watch for use in decompression from saturation dives.

Appearance

Visually, the 14060M is as close to the legendary 1950’s and 60’s Submariners as you can get. It is the only Rolex sport watch to retain the old style bracelet as well as lug holes. To the layman, this “less-modern” Rolex without a date might be less desirable. Many knowledgeable Rolex enthusiasts consider the 14060M to be the iconic Rolex sport watch, and more attractive because of the dial symmetry.



“Hey, that guy is wearing a Rolex.” In your world hearing that under someone’s breath might be a good thing or a bad thing. Hearing that at a speed-dating social – good, at Wal-Mart where even the greeters are a little suspect – probably not so good. If this is a concern, consider that the classic 16610 Submariner Date is equipped with the magnifying loupe epoxied to the crystal above the date, which is probably the single most visible indication that you are wearing over $5000 USD worth of watch on your wrist. Otherwise it is the classic Rolex sport watch, appropriate in any venue and sufficiently versatile with any wardrobe.



Spanning 59mm across and weighing in at half a pound – well, not really, but you would think the Sea-Dweller was some sort of giant if you read most of the reviews, blogs and forums on the Internet. In reality it’s no larger than a basic Seiko SKX-series diver, and is truly dwarfed by behemoth divers from Breitling, Omega, Seiko and Doxa. It’s even a hair smaller than the Submariner Date. Many consider the Sea-Dweller the perfect evolution of the Submariner - with the useful date feature, but also some of the symmetry of the 14060M. It’s also 2mm thicker than the 16610 and some say more rugged. The additional thickness comes from an extra thickness in the case, crystal and case back. The bezel also sits up higher; however I do not find it any easier to turn than either of the Submariners. If you make your living on dry land, you probably won’t see many other Sea-Dwellers in the wild, a measure of exclusivity much sought after by many watch enthusiasts.



Comfort/Wearability

The No-Date Submariner is probably the most comfortable in the range. It sits a little flatter, feels a little lighter, and because of the dynamics of the non-solid end link bracelet, it rest on the flat of my wrist with no flop. Owning a 14060M means two things: lug holes and non-solid end links. In this matter you have no choice. Perhaps this is a nod to the old-school Rolex designs. The 14060M is also a little safer to wear. If you get jacked for your watch, you should simply explain that this is only the $4500 model, and the criminal will probably leave you alone and go seek out a more lucrative target. If you can get by without a date (my previous chronograph of 20 years had none) and don’t plan on going below 300 meters, consider the 14060M. Plus, there’s something about being able to change out your bracelet with a dirty toothpick.

My 16610 specimen was an early y-serial, which means it had drilled-through lug holes and solid end links. Coming from a 14060M, I felt the SEL’s made the bracelet a little stiff. The reason for this is the fact that the solid end link moves the pivot point of the end link from the spring bar out to the pin holding the first link. For the week that I owned both watches concurrently, I found myself wearing the 14060M most days. I found the date cyclops a little distracting. I generally had to peer under the cyclops to see the date at a comfortable angle, or else hold the watch perfectly perpendicular to my eyes. On the positive side, the cyclops was an extra reflective surface and had a jewel-like appearance, making the watch a little more “blingy”.

A week on, my Z-serial Sea-Dweller seems to be a perfect compromise between the aesthetics of the No-Date Sub and the practicality of the Sub Date. While I would prefer non-solid end links and lug holes, the taller profile of the Sea-Dweller makes it sit on my wrist more like the ND Sub. I do find it heavier, but no heavier than my Seiko chronograph with an aftermarket oyster bracelet. It definitely has a presence, and to those in the know, a certain nobility.

Conclusion

In these reviews the author tends to write that his/her current watch is their best and final choice. I cannot commit to that. Next month I might own an Explorer, GMT or even a Datejust. I’d like to think I’m settling down, but 7 days is too early to tell. I do know that if I had no watch and walked into an authorized Rolex dealer, I would not have an easy choice to make.

I think I see a Pepsi GMT-II winking at me….
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Old 19 February 2008, 07:19 AM   #2
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One of the best reviews I've read!!!! So funny, so true....
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Old 19 February 2008, 07:40 AM   #3
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Old 19 February 2008, 07:49 AM   #4
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A great read!
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Old 19 February 2008, 07:54 AM   #5
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Cheers! For me, the next station is Sea Dweller. Might even 'strap' it. But a COSC non-date would do the trick as well. In the watch desert I have to live in, questions about the 16610, "what's so special about it?", must be taken for granted. Who in his right mind would spend THAT much money on a watch? Yeah, one just must be short of a few marbles
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Old 19 February 2008, 07:54 AM   #6
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Excellent piece of work !! Thanks alot !!
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Old 19 February 2008, 08:03 AM   #7
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You've sold me on the 14060M No Date after reading this review.
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Old 19 February 2008, 08:11 AM   #8
Ed Rooney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmjm View Post
You've sold me on the 14060M No Date after reading this review.

Yet I will receive no commission. I ask, is this justice?
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Old 19 February 2008, 08:52 AM   #9
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Excellent review, Ed!
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Old 19 February 2008, 08:53 AM   #10
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Great review - nice pics.
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Old 19 February 2008, 12:04 PM   #11
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A perfect summary. If I could live with the thickness of the SD, it could be the one. I've owned the SD and Sub-date several times each, but now, must confess, the non-date is my favorite. Great review and I could not agree with you more!
BTW You sold me on the 14060M.
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Old 19 February 2008, 01:52 PM   #12
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Hilarious write-up, Ed!
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Old 19 February 2008, 10:20 PM   #13
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Thanks for the comparison and summary

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Old 20 February 2008, 11:14 AM   #14
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Nice write-up, Ed!

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Old 21 February 2008, 01:59 AM   #15
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Great write up, my favorite is the SD, mainly because its the only Rolex I own, but I do like the simple clasic style of the Sub ND.

Thank you for sharing the review with us
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Old 21 February 2008, 10:07 AM   #16
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very nice write-up. thanks.
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Old 21 February 2008, 12:25 PM   #17
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Thanks a lot. Up to this point I did not really want a ND Sub, now I want one bad.
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Old 22 February 2008, 11:25 AM   #18
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I dont think I have worn my SS Daytona or my DJ in 2008......
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Old 22 February 2008, 11:35 AM   #19
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Is there a subscription cost for all this info.......
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Old 23 February 2008, 12:39 PM   #20
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Very enjoyable and readable. Thanks.
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Old 28 February 2008, 03:21 PM   #21
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Good read
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Old 28 February 2008, 08:14 PM   #22
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Brilliant Review! really well worded and fantastic to read, good show old bean!
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Old 28 February 2008, 11:17 PM   #23
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Great Review I have my eyes on a Sea-Dweller. I want something rugged for play.

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Old 29 February 2008, 11:50 PM   #24
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quote: "Sea-Dweller seems to be a perfect compromise between the aesthetics of the No-Date Sub and the practicality of the Sub Date" unquote.

That is perhaps the most appropriate description for the SD.. Have to say you nailed it right on with that description of the SD. Great write-up and a joy to read.

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Old 1 March 2008, 01:36 AM   #25
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Pleasure to read - excellent narration. Thanks!
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Old 1 March 2008, 02:16 PM   #26
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Nice review !
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Old 5 March 2008, 09:53 AM   #27
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Sea Dweller

Hello,

This is my first post on the forum. I recently picked up a SD which had been on my short list for a long time. With the price increase this month of about 12%, the time (no pun intended) seemed right.

Not sure what I can add to the comprehensive and informative reviews already written on this watch, but if anyone is on the fence about getting one, I highly recommend it. The added thickness gives the watch a bit more presence on the wrist and the lack of the cyclops eye makes the dial more symmetric IMHO. My Sub seems kinda small when I compare the two. Gotta be honest, I also like the SD being a bit more rare out there in the public than the Sub. I was very fortunate to get a crazy deal on this watch and have not looked back since. If you can score one, go for it. It sits comfortably on my wrist and despite some reviews on other forums, the added height of the chrystal has not subjected the chrystal to damage. Here are a few pics.

Regards
Scott
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Old 11 March 2008, 01:14 PM   #28
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Ed, I missed this review when you first wrote it. Very funny and true. Great job
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Old 18 March 2008, 12:44 PM   #29
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Great read!!!
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Old 18 March 2008, 01:45 PM   #30
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Ed, really well written; this piece has great style. The "no date" sub is probably my favourite watch. I love the raw looking practically of a 14060M with a NATO band.
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