ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX
17 September 2017, 10:07 PM | #31 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: FL
Watch: platinum sub
Posts: 15,884
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I own both the bb and the subc.
Get the subc. You will not be let down. You can always add a bb later.
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If you wind it, they will run. 25 or 6 to 4. |
17 September 2017, 10:23 PM | #32 |
TRF Moderator & 2024 DATE-JUST41 Patron
Join Date: Jul 2013
Real Name: Adam
Location: Hong Kong
Watch: SEIKO
Posts: 28,362
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ETA BB is 12.5mm thick and SubC is 12.7mm, so virtually the same. The BB flat caseback makes it look thicker, but it is more stable/comfortable on the wrist, IMO. The new inhouse BB is thicker. Get a used ETA.
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17 September 2017, 10:25 PM | #33 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: FL
Watch: platinum sub
Posts: 15,884
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Quote:
I dont mind the thickness of the new bb fwiw.
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If you wind it, they will run. 25 or 6 to 4. |
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17 September 2017, 10:27 PM | #34 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Real Name: Jack
Location: The Triangle
Watch: Several
Posts: 6,623
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A five or six year old 14060, which I own, properly cared for will still look great. I have the new bracelet and clasp on my Explorer, it is a nice upgrade, but the aluminum bezel on my 14060m still shines like new. If it's the case and dial that draws you to the older model, there are some good ones out there.
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Sub 116613 LN; GMT 116710 LN; Sinn 104R; Exp 214270; GS SBGM221; Omega AT |
17 September 2017, 10:28 PM | #35 |
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Real Name: David
Location: London+Guangzhou
Watch: ing watches
Posts: 2,603
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Neither do I. The BB is a magnificent watch and incredibly good value. But it scratches a different itch to the Sub. If you got it I still think you would hanker after a Sub. Best get a BB later on down the line as a second watch.
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Rolex Sea Dweller 116600, GMT Master II 16710 (Pepsi) and 116710 BLNR, Daytona 116500LN, Submariner 14060M. |
17 September 2017, 10:29 PM | #36 |
TRF Moderator & 2024 DATE-JUST41 Patron
Join Date: Jul 2013
Real Name: Adam
Location: Hong Kong
Watch: SEIKO
Posts: 28,362
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17 September 2017, 10:39 PM | #37 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Missouri USA
Watch: Daytona C white
Posts: 2,248
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Quote:
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17 September 2017, 10:40 PM | #38 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Middle Earth
Posts: 92
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Quote:
Can a new bracelet from a 114060 be fitted to a 14060m? |
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18 September 2017, 02:12 AM | #39 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Real Name: Michael
Location: TEXAS
Watch: Rolex Submariner
Posts: 467
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I posted a thread like this years ago. I went with a 16610. Wore that for a couple of years then went straight to a Hulk. The clasp is a work of art. Can't believe Rolex stayed with the same design for decades. It worked don't get me wrong, but other watch companies were coming up with some nice clasp designs. Love the new case and maxi dial. Can't go back to the older cases and design.
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18 September 2017, 02:34 AM | #40 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Houston
Watch: SkyD, SD43, GMT2
Posts: 4,975
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If you want a Rolex get a Rolex. Any other brand, Tudor included, isn't going to satisfy the desire for a Rolex. Absolutely nothing wrong with Tudor, came close to buy one more than once.
If you prefer the 5-digit models then that's what you should get. Don't talk yourself into a 6-digit, if you don't like the boxier lugs and larger case now, you never will. Yes the 6-digits have some advantages but they won't make up for a watch that doesn't look as good on your wrist as you'd like it to. Good luck and enjoy the hunt! |
18 September 2017, 03:07 AM | #41 |
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Fremont
Posts: 61
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If you're not a fan of the aesthetics of a 114060, then it'd be torture to spend that money wearing something you won't love. ThoughI have a 114060 and love it, my vote is 14060
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18 October 2017, 12:25 AM | #42 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Middle Earth
Posts: 92
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Hey folks -
I wanted to pick up this thread again because I’ve been doing a good deal of hunting and mulling over what you’ve all said. I’m starting to think the right move for me might be to go for an older Sub from the 80s or early 90s – possibly my birth year, which is ’84. A fellow member suggested to me HQ Milton, where there appear to be some decently priced options. My main question is this: how much of a headache, financially in particular, would I enter into going for a 30 year old Sub? Is that considered vintage at this point? It’s hard to know the service history on a lot of the pieces I come across; how much would an RSC charge approximately for a watch that age? (I know it depends on what needs replacing, etc) This doesn’t quite solve my original problem of still having to shell out a high percentage of the amount of a new Sub for a much older one, but I’m realizing I really can’t do the new case shape – tried it on again recently at an AD and was immediately disappointed. Pretty much puts the nail in that coffin for me. I’m think around low $5000’s (or, dare I say it, high $4,000's) for a decent piece from the mid 80s to early 90s. Is this reasonable? |
Tags |
suggestions , wwyd |
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