Considering these vintage ladies Tudor snowflake subs

[Boopie]

Hi, TRF. I know the watch I’m considering isn’t a high-ticket item, but I still don’t want to get ripped off.

I’ve worn a ladies’ Rolex Yachtmaster for 20 years, and picked it because it was the only Rolex Professional watch for women. I love the Submariner, but can’t pull off a 40mm. I recently bought a 16200 DJ, but even the 36mm is pushing it on my dainty female wrists! (Lucky for my husband, as I can’t wear his 16710!)

I’ve been researching the vintage Tudor lady Subs, which seem to be in the 31-33mm range. I love blue, and want the snowflake because it doesn’t look like anything else. I want something to wear for casual weekends, etc.; obviously these watches are over 40 years old, and I’m not going to take them scuba diving but I do want the bracelet to be durable enough. These had the foldover style link bracelets, so maybe that accounts for the stretch and wear thar I see on them. I’ve seen many a photo of a Sub or a GMT here on TRF that’s been though a lot of stuff in 40 years, and they still look better than some of the bracelets I’ve seen.

I just don’t want to buy a watch that’s been relumed, is a frankenwatch, etc. The patina on the hands and dial don’t match on some. I also called LA WatchWorks for a cost of service, as some I’m looking at don’t have a recent service.

Anyway, I’m posting the Chrono24 listings of some that I’ve been messaging the sellers about.

Another reason I’m reaching out is because I’ve never bought a watch this old, or used Chrono24, or used an overseas buyer. Obviously I’m researching the seller, and most seem to be professional dealers.

The newest and most expensive listing, from Italy. It also seems to be in a good condition.

https://www.chrono24.com/tudor/tudor...id20115392.htm

This dealer is in Germany. It also looks good but I’m a little concerned about the bracelet condition. My non-expert eyes also wonder if it’s been over polished, because it seems that the lugs are too close to the edge of the lug hole. They just cleaned it up and it’s under their warranty.


https://www.chrono24.com/tudor/tudor...id15602472.htm


This is supposedly from an estate sale in Canada. To my non expert eye the lume on the dial looks a little sloppy, and it doesn’t match the lume on the hands (but maybe that’s normal). Again, I realize that the watch is fairly small and I won’t be able to see that detail. It has been serviced fairly recently.

https://www.chrono24.com/tudor/tudor...id10112285.htm

Finally, this one is in France. It looks good and was apparently recently serviced. I asked for more photos, though, and didn’t get them yet. This may be due to the time difference. I found their shop’s website (outside of Chrono 24) and the watch is on there too.


https://www.chrono24.com/tudor/subma...id13822356.htm


Because I’m pretty much a newbie when it comes to watches of this era, and the ones that appeal most to my non-trained eye are overseas, I’d really appreciate any honest feedback.

Thanks!

[alwayshere]

Lucky I read your post a few times to make sure - the mini-sub is designed more for the ladies so should fit you fine. Its a couple of mm wider than the old datejusts.

The listings you provided all seem about right in terms of pricing (alot of Japan sellers on ebay offer these so I would check that too). Again, not a particularly sought after piece given size, etc.

If you are into women's diver watches, the other one to consider if you are open to quartz is the ladies Omega Seamaster Professional range (the ladies James Bond version). Its got a nice blue bezel and dial.

[Boopie]

Thanks. That is a good suggestion.

There seem to be a few different models of these, the 9091/0 and the 94400. Some say Princess on the dial, but not all do. There is a 36mm Tudor Sub, but at least those I’ve seen aren’t in blue and have the snowflake dial/hands. Thus far I’ve seen the snowflake in the 39/40mm and the ladies 31/33mm. That’s why I’m interested in the smaller sizes 31-33mm.

My ladies’ Yachtmaster is 29mm so these would be slightly larger. It, too, has the Mercedes hands and dot lume, so one reason I’m drawn to the snowflake is that it’s totally different than anything else I have.

[Kingsking]

There is one on eBay now , auction ends in a little less than 2 days .

[TimeLord2]

Here is a listing from 2016 on TRF. Long gone by now but perhaps still useful for comparison. https://www.rolexforums.com/showthre...ighlight=90910 The bracelet is a rivet oyster bracelet but also looks worn. The others in your potential candidates all had folded link bracelets. You could probably get a new bracelet for this model from Tudor/Rolex. It would not be period correct but it would be strong and new. I have noticed many on the vintage forum like to replace the old bracelet with a modern bracelet and store the original. I have had my bracelet redone at Rolliworks and it came out much tighter but still with a fair share of imperfections. It is a two tone bracelet and many of the center gold links were disfigured or etched on the sides. To make it perfect probably would have cost the same as picking up a good used one on EBAY.

The lugs on these examples in general seem very thin and since they were hand done originally variation in thickness is to be expected. The spring bars are close to the edge of the lug on all of them but I have no idea without researching if that is normal on this reference. I know nothing about this reference but of course everyone has an opinion.

I do like the first two the most, and out of the two, the one from Italy I like best and the one from Germany with the potentially redone seconds hand is just not as thick case-wise but still quite nice. the other two from Canada and France respectively I like least of all. From Canada, I don't like the color of the lume, I don't like pumpkin lume…, and from France I don't like the hands not matching. I have a feeling hands or dial would be very hard to source for this. All bracelets can be repaired (Rolliworks www.rolliworks.com or Michael Young in Hong Kong, www.classicwatchrepair.com $500 - $700) or replaced. Beautiful reference! Patience will pay off.

[Boopie]

Research on the dealer in Italy turned up some negative feedback here on TRF a few years ago. I’m also concerned about the Canadian estate sale watch (the different lume shades on the hands and dial would bug me, especially since most other watches seem to march). The German and French watches are still in the mix, but I am waiting for them to answer a few more of my questions.

This is from a London dealer that is apparently reputable. It doesn’t have a photo of the clasp or the stretch. Does the lume on the dial look original?

https://www.chrono24.com/tudor/tudor...id16342673.htm

Thanks again!

[Boopie]

Originally Posted by TimeLord2

Here is a listing from 2016 on TRF. Long gone by now but perhaps still useful for comparison. https://www.rolexforums.com/showthre...ighlight=90910 The bracelet is a rivet oyster bracelet but also looks worn. The others in your potential candidates all had folded link bracelets. You could probably get a new bracelet for this model from Tudor/Rolex. It would not be period correct but it would be strong and new. I have noticed many on the vintage forum like to replace the old bracelet with a modern bracelet and store the original. I have had my bracelet redone at Rolliworks and it came out much tighter but still with a fair share of imperfections. It is a two tone bracelet and many of the center gold links were disfigured or etched on the sides. To make it perfect probably would have cost the same as picking up a good used one on EBAY.

The lugs on these examples in general seem very thin and since they were hand done originally variation in thickness is to be expected. The spring bars are close to the edge of the lug on all of them but I have no idea without researching if that is normal on this reference. I know nothing about this reference but of course everyone has an opinion.

I do like the first two the most, and out of the two, the one from Italy I like best and the one from Germany with the potentially redone seconds hand is just not as thick case-wise but still quite nice. the other two from Canada and France respectively I like least of all. From Canada, I don't like the color of the lume, I don't like pumpkin lume…, and from France I don't like the hands not matching. I have a feeling hands or dial would be very hard to source for this. All bracelets can be repaired (Rolliworks www.rolliworks.com or Michael Young in Hong Kong, www.classicwatchrepair.com $500 - $700) or replaced. Beautiful reference! Patience will pay off.

Thank you for your thoughtful response. This helps me figure out what to look for, and what to avoid. I greatly appreciate it!

[harry in montreal]

Hey there
I have owned a Lady sub, and mini. I have a 36 and 40. My only recommendation Is to avoid the lady model. It is just very very tiny. My wife wears my 40mm 79090 and won’t give it back.
I do have a black dialed 73190 with full box and papers that I am looking to sell. It was overhauled completely a few years ago. I know you have your heart set on a snowflake, but PM me if you decide to change course. H

[Boopie]

Thanks. Is hers a 36?

Do you happen to have a photo of the mich smaller one?

Some women here can totally pull off the 40mm, but I’m just not one of them. I just got a 36mm DJ 16200, which is pushing the envelope on size for me. Two jewelers (including a Rolex AD and RSc watchmaker) played around with the bracelet, and the only way it will fit well is to remove a permanent link. It does not wear as well or fit as comfortably as my Yachtmaster. My husband has a vintage Sub (16613) and GMT (16710). The entire watch case takes up my wrist, and the bracelet will never fit. 40mm is just too big for my wrist.

[harry in montreal]

So my wife currently wears the 40mm tudor sub. I do have the 36mm model in blue which I tried to trade with her. She refused and likes a big watch. She’s not a big girl but she just likes the look at the big model. This may end up happening with you. Here is my Lady sub. I sold it years back... this was also my failed attempt to trade with the wife to get the 40mm back. I found the lady sub really tiny. These lady subs sell very cheap on eBay. Like $700-900 tops. The mini sub is a much better size, while I like the 36mm most, model 75190.

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=507575

What is very coincidental is that she bothers me all the time for a platinum
Yachtmaster. It is her favourite model. Is yours a midsize or the 40mm ?

[Boopie]

Originally Posted by harry in montreal

So my wife currently wears the 40mm tudor sub. I do have the 36mm model in blue which I tried to trade with her. She refused and likes a big watch. She’s not a big girl but she just likes the look at the big model. This may end up happening with you. Here is my Lady sub. I sold it years back... this was also my failed attempt to trade with the wife to get the 40mm back. I found the lady sub really tiny. These lady subs sell very cheap on eBay. Like $700-900 tops. The mini sub is a much better size, while I like the 36mm most, model 75190.

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=507575

What is very coincidental is that she bothers me all the time for a platinum
Yachtmaster. It is her favourite model. Is yours a midsize or the 40mm ?

Sorry I missed your listing!

I have the now-discontinued 29mm ladies Yachtmaster, 169622, platinum and SS. I got it new 2/01 and wore it daily for 20 years. Back then I thought the 35mm was too big for me. It’s an amazing watch. The polished case and PCL made it dressy even though it’s a sports watch. I used the bezel daily.

[Boopie]

After doing more research I pulled the trigger on one on Chrono24. It’s not one of these I linked to. It should arrive in a few days and I’ll give a review/update then. It hasn’t been recently serviced, and the bracelet looks its age (according to the photos; this seems to be common because it has the folded over links) so a trip to LA Watchworks or Rolliworks may be in the near future.

[TimeLord2]

Looking forward to seeing it! Congratulations on the purchase!

[harry in montreal]

Wear it well !
I kind of like Tudors more than Rolexes. The dials are clean and matte. No chrome. Very cool watch you picked

[aba123]

Nice! I have been looking into the reference myself, it is really cool and unique. Looking forward to seeing the photos.

[Boopie]

I think I posted in another thread the watch I actually got. I don’t know if this link still works, but here it is:

https://www.chrono24.com/tudor/princ...koutId=3825370


https://cdn2.chrono24.com/images/uhr...2rhm3-Zoom.jpg



Wearing it right now! It’s a perfect casual, weekend watch that totally flies under the radar. It was a gift for my 30th anniversary (I told my husband he did a good job picking it out…of course he had no idea I got it until after I bought it and it was on the way; the double-edged sword of being a female WIS is that my husband knows I want to pick out my own watches).

Thanks for everyone’s feedback. It’s interesting how prices have gone up the past few years on these. The ladies’ snowflake design is unusual, and blue is my favorite color.