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Old 16 June 2016, 12:14 AM   #1
Tudor841
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It Arrived - Now the Work Begins - Rolex 5513

Hi All:

I recently received the below 5513 and am looking to get a little more information and suggestions on restoration. It was a one owner watch from new in early 1965 - worn daily since then. A number of service marks indicate previous work on the watch. I plan to send to Rik at Time Care for the service and to Michael Young for the repair to the 7206 band. My goal is to restore it to a good daily wear watch - not necessarily a collectible or dive capable specimen.



Comment 1: The dial appears to have been replaced with a poor copy. Any thoughts on how to fix this glaring issue? I'm not sure the hand set is real - both dial hand set glow when charged with light. If the hand set is genuine - I can't tell - then my plan would be to source a compatible dial. Thoughts appreciated.



Comment 2: The case appears to be in good condition with some polishing. Is this a semi-pointed crown guard case?





Comment 3: Referring to the head shot above, is the bezel insert authentic - if so what version is it. I've looked over this website and others and can't really decide.

Thanks for any comments,
Mike
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Old 16 June 2016, 12:22 AM   #2
DerbyCopa
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Siento decirte, por supuesto que solo es mi opinion, pero creo que el arreglo es bastante dificil, a no ser que te lo hayan regalado.. cambio de esfera, de agujas, la caja bastante deteriorada, con lo que precisa restauracion, asi como el armis,.. puf, lo veo dificil y caro.
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Old 16 June 2016, 02:02 AM   #3
ADINVA
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Is this 5513 genuine?
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Old 16 June 2016, 02:28 AM   #4
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Yes - I believe it is - the dial is not.
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Old 16 June 2016, 02:38 AM   #5
gmg_3
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I would recommend the following..

-Buy a 1969+ Ft first dial (more affordable vs gilt or meters first)
-Replace the crown / tube with 700 set
-Send Bracelet to MY
-Long Term goal would be a gilt dial / hand set.
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Old 16 June 2016, 03:43 AM   #6
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nice project. Finding a gilt dial will be expensive and may not be worth it. Having said that any dial will work as it won't be correct anyways. The choice is yours.
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Old 16 June 2016, 03:57 AM   #7
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I love the patina on that case and crystal. I would not polish the case at all and only do a toothpaste polish to the crystal leaving the deep scratches. Other than that just take apart the case and bezel and clean the dirt out only.
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Old 16 June 2016, 04:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Yes - I believe it is - the dial is not.
Then it ain't. Go for a service dial.
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Old 16 June 2016, 04:09 AM   #9
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Since the dial is refinished or aftermarket, and absent you finding a correct gilt dial, I would go with a correct service dial which would be the most appropriate replacement dial.

Insert appears genuine but the pearl is not genuine or possibly a genuine pearl that has been glued in with an excessive amount of hot glue.

The case is typical of all Sub cases from the mid-1960s through the end of production around 2007.
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Old 16 June 2016, 04:19 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by springer View Post
Since the dial is refinished or aftermarket, and absent you finding a correct gilt dial, I would go with a correct service dial which would be the most appropriate replacement dial.

Insert appears genuine but the pearl is not genuine or possibly a genuine pearl that has been glued in with an excessive amount of hot glue.

The case is typical of all Sub cases from the mid-1960s through the end of production around 2007.
What would happen if you send this to a Rolex service center? Would they replace the dial and with what kind?
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Old 16 June 2016, 04:25 AM   #11
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If it's due for a full service, I'd go with a certified watchmaker who has a parts account and can order the right service dial. No polishing and replace the insert, crystal, crown and tube.
Me, I'd live with the rivet bracelet as is - unless you have damage to clasp or links that we can't see.
That way you have a correctly rehab'd Sub albeit not original.
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Old 16 June 2016, 05:30 AM   #12
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great project! Keep us posted!!
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Old 16 June 2016, 06:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77T View Post
If it's due for a full service, I'd go with a certified watchmaker who has a parts account and can order the right service dial. No polishing and replace the insert, crystal, crown and tube.
Me, I'd live with the rivet bracelet as is - unless you have damage to clasp or links that we can't see.
That way you have a correctly rehab'd Sub albeit not original.

Where would you find a period correct crystal (assume T19 superdome), would have to be aftermarket (non original)
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Old 16 June 2016, 06:17 AM   #14
77T
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Quote:
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Where would you find a period correct crystal (assume T19 superdome), would have to be aftermarket (non original)


In the pics I didn't see the crystal being a T19 already. There are some opinions expressed in an earlier thread about options.
http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=427924


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Old 16 June 2016, 07:18 AM   #15
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Here are two good (IMO) aftermarket choices -

Send the watch to ABC for service and have them install a service T-19 which they polish to approximate a T-19 dome-



Or use a T-19 dome from Micheal Young, they are as close to the original T-19 as you will find -



Obviously, I've used both, and like both, but would recommend the MY dome.

As someone previously stated, 5512/13's came with a dome crystal, not a superdome.

No matter what you do, do not keep the original crystal on the watch. Acrylic crystal crack as they age, and atmospheric moisture is as detrimental to the dial, lume and movement over time as water penetration.
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Old 16 June 2016, 07:50 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seattleal View Post
Here are two good (IMO) aftermarket choices -

Send the watch to ABC for service and have them install a service T-19 which they polish to approximate a T-19 dome-



Or use a T-19 dome from Micheal Young, they are as close to the original T-19 as you will find -



Obviously, I've used both, and like both, but would recommend the MY dome.

As someone previously stated, 5512/13's came with a dome crystal, not a superdome.

No matter what you do, do not keep the original crystal on the watch. Acrylic crystal crack as they age, and atmospheric moisture is as detrimental to the dial, lume and movement over time as water penetration.
Just got a T19 from MY for my 1680. It was here in three days, and I had it installed that afternoon. It looks fantastic.
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Old 16 June 2016, 08:29 AM   #17
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Out of curiosity- what is the serial? I would expect pointed guards on an early 1965 purchase, which would be early '65 or late '64 maybe...

As springer pointed out that is (what I call) a 66+ case.

This may be a Frankenstein watch, which is fine but hopefully the purchase price reflected that.
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Old 16 June 2016, 08:43 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Out of curiosity- what is the serial? I would expect pointed guards on an early 1965 purchase, which would be early '65 or late '64 maybe...

As springer pointed out that is (what I call) a 66+ case.
No, that's not correct, 5512/13's after 1963 had rounded crown guards. So rounded crown guards would be correct on a 1965 5513.
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Old 16 June 2016, 09:18 AM   #19
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Out of curiosity do you have pictures of the case back and movement?
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Old 16 June 2016, 10:03 AM   #20
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Quote:
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No, that's not correct, 5512/13's after 1963 had rounded crown guards. So rounded crown guards would be correct on a 1965 5513.
Really? My research came up different but that's fine.
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Old 16 June 2016, 10:07 AM   #21
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Really? My research came up different but that's fine.
1965 definitely was not pointed crown guards.
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Old 16 June 2016, 12:07 PM   #22
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Old 16 June 2016, 12:38 PM   #23
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Thanks all for the comments to date - much appreciated. I've enclosed a few more pictures. What I've gathered so far - keep the comments coming:

Dial - replace with service or other used original dial
Insert - looks genuine - is it a MK 3 or something else?
Crystal - Nice domed crystal - should be replaced - MY might have a good replacement
Case - is it a SPCG case from early 65 or not? Still confused.


Movement: Note that it has a 1530 bridge. It beats at 18,000 bph so I judge it is a 1520 that has a 1530 bridge replacement during a past service.

[/URL]

Here is a bracelet shot. It has the usuallt stretch and I'll need to add (via MY) two links to make the right size for my wrist.

[/URL]

Close up of the clasp numbers:

[/URL]

Case back:

[/URL]

Inside case back:

[/URL]

Regards,
Mike
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Old 16 June 2016, 12:41 PM   #24
Tudor841
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Oh, one more - the serial number:



Thanks,
Mike
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Old 16 June 2016, 01:32 PM   #25
seattleal
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Quote:
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Movement: Note that it has a 1530 bridge. It beats at 18,000 bph so I judge it is a 1520 that has a 1530 bridge replacement during a past service.
It's a 1530 movement - the 1520 is a 19,800 bph movement.

But I think a 1520 would be more typical of a 1965 5513.
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Old 16 June 2016, 01:54 PM   #26
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1530 is correct for the watch.

I have a one owner bought new right here in my shop serial 1.22x.xxx serial with a 1530.

Caseback dated 1-65
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Old 16 June 2016, 02:18 PM   #27
seattleal
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1530 is correct for the watch.

I have a one owner bought new right here in my shop serial 1.22x.xxx serial with a 1530.

Caseback dated 1-65
That's interesting. My iii65 5513 pictured above has a 1520. I guess the changeover occurred mid-1965
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Old 16 June 2016, 04:38 PM   #28
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Thanks for correcting my thoughts regarding the movement guys.
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Old 18 June 2016, 10:23 PM   #29
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What would happen if you send this to a Rolex service center? Would they replace the dial and with what kind?
Anyone?
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Old 18 June 2016, 11:57 PM   #30
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I would guess if they were willing to accept it, they would install a luminova service dial. Probably hands and insert too.

Crystal, crown and tube for sure would be changed.

But they may refuse to work on it too...
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