Which Grand Seiko would you choose?

[sierra11b]

After much consideration I have narrowed my choices between the SBGM025 or the SBGR055 as I want a white dial and want my first GS to be a mechanical.

Both are similar... Same parchment textured white dials with a subtle grain that runs from 12 to 6, similar cases with pointed crown guards (which I like btw – some are put off by them).

Obviously, the biggest difference is one is a GMT and the other is not. The other glaring difference is the thickness of these watches as the SBGM025 is 14.1mm and the SBGR055 is 13.5mm respectively. GS has a thing for display backs in over half their line which unfortunately makes some unnecessarily thick.

I feel the 13.5mm thick SBGR055 is reasonable and have heard great (albeit limited) reviews from its owners which say it wears like the GMTIIC, but am apprehensive about the SBGM025’s 14.1mm thickness which is clearly in dive watch range – not to mention at 39mm diameter for both watches the thickness may be severely disproportionate.

Problem is that I have had no luck in finding decent wrist shots or first-person perspectives on the wear ability of the GMT (even the SBGM027 which is the same watch in black). It's a Japan-only model whereas the SBGR055 has made it to international soil. There's a great photo review of the GMT available and the owner seems tickled pink, but there's no wrist shots!

So what’s a guy to do?

Which would you prefer and why?

(ALL PICTURES BORROWED)

SBGR055






SBGM025

[tinger]

Of the 2 watches u selected, I voted for the non gmt.
I must admit though that personally I dont care for the crown guards.
Congrats in advance!

Oh, this is what James Dowling wrote recently:
"But, you failed to mention my favourite GS component, the hands, the finish on them is better than any watch I have ever seen. The next highest quality I have seen was on a watch costing ten times the price, Laurent Ferrier's micro rotor model. "

[Elusion]

I voted GMT because it'd be more useful.
However, the SBGR055 is a little more eligant looking.
I don't think you'll notice that less than 1mm difference in height.

[sierra11b]

Originally Posted by Elusion

I voted GMT because it'd be more useful.
However, the SBGR055 is a little more eligant looking.
I don't think you'll notice that less than 1mm difference in height.

Not sure if I want elegant this time around...

I have an elegant watch already. I want this to be a more fun/versatile watch so perhaps the GMT is the way to go?

It would compliment my Black 216570 Exp42 nicely.

[GermanyMatt]

Can't go wrong with either imo - both are great looking!

[threemonkeys]

I prefer the simplicity of the non-GMT. It's just a beautiful watch.

[stockae92]

Both are beautiful watches.

I can't choose, I give up. So good luck with your choice .. LOL :p

[And]

Non gmt for me. Lovely watch.

[BH13GMT]

I voted non GMT
If it were my money I would go for the GS Spring Drive Diver

[GermanyMatt]

I voted gmt. I really like the bezel and the blue gmt hand. It looks a bit more sporty, which seems to be what you're looking for.

[sierra11b]

Thanks for the opinions fellas!

I do like Spring Drive and would REALLY love to get my hands on a SBGA011 Snowflake as the dial is amazing.

But the budget isn't quite there and I'm not 100% sold on the technology JUST yet. Perhaps in years time we can see exactly how they are holding up and get a better idea as far as service intervals as I feel all GS are overkill on their recommended service intervals. I'd feel comfortable going 5-6 years on a mechanical (they recommend 3) but really am curious as to how much life SD owners can squeeze out of theirs... For me, the SD technology is like the stealth fighter... take the computer away and it plummets drastically whereas with mechanicals the cues for servicing are typically more subtle.

And because the Snowflake is Titanium I've heard service + spa treatment can get quite expensive although the spa treatment is optional unlike with RSC. I also wanted a 9S65/9S66 movement which is currently only found in GS.

[Baco Noir]

I'm usually more of a GMT guy, but of those two I think the non-GMT is the better looking one. The bezel on the GMT seems to detract from the beauty on that model IMHO.

[lindstd]

Non gmt gets my vote

[Bangel]

I like the non GMT for its simpler style.

[bcacncnc]

Hi Eric,

Seems like you're having a great time on the hunt... like I am now for my 2nd GS!

Here are are few things I would consider.

Honestly, I am also looking for a sporty GS to my collection, but my view is that GS look best in their classical look. Thats not to say the sporty models (e.g. divers aren't good) I just find the classical looking models more their DNA. So in this round, I think the 55 wins.

I have the same 9S65 movement in my SBGR051. Mine is 13.3mm thick. Its not at all overly thick or uncomfortable. Now I haven't tried on the GMT at 14+mm BUT, I do feel that given the choice, I would prefer the slightly slimmer model. Having said that, for a sporty model, the presence of the thicker GMT might not be a bad idea.

For the GMT, I have seen people swap the bracelet out for a leather strap. I can imagine the GMT looking really sporty with a brown croc strap. Sweet! The blue hand on the GMT gives it a little pop for a sporty model...

So for me - I would pick the GMT...

But both are sweet... so you can't go wrong either way..

Good luck and I can't wait to see the wrist shots..

[incontrol]

I love them both, but since I have a GS GMT, SBGE021, I voted for the GMT model! Good luck and have fun choosing the right one for you.

[cedargrove]

Tough for me to pick either, solely because of the case profile and crown guards. There just seems to be something missing in the consistency of the contours - a lack of sleekness or sexiness. Sorry, just my opinion on these two.

[damo_t]

I love the subtle blue GMT hand.

Either way, you can't go wrong. Congrats in advance!

[Andad]

I chose the Astron GMT.

[Cru Jones]

i like the GMT's blue hand, but i prefer the thinner non-GMT with polished bezel.

as far as thickness goes, it's not just the ultimate thickness, but how much the display back lifts the head of the watch off the wrist that bothers me sometimes.

[Frogman4me]

Both are great but I prefer the non gmt model ;)

[FeelingTheBlues]

Originally Posted by threemonkeys

I prefer the simplicity of the non-GMT. It's just a beautiful watch.

That's exactly the thought I had when I looked at the pictures. Mind you, both are great but there's something about the non-GMT, the blue hand isn't "too much" on the dial but I must prefer the polished bezel to the GMT one. Besides, although the difference may not sound too big I much prefer a thinner watch.

Good luck with the decision Eric, you are hesitating between two very nice watches so you cannot really go wrong with either.

[sierra11b]

Thanks for all the votes and great opinions!

I found an owner of the GMT and sent him a message hoping for a review of overall wearability and impressions now that his honeymoon period has ended. Hopefully he'll be able to provide some clarification for this US-rare model.

[sierra11b]

INCOMING!

[Lyrch75]

Originally Posted by sierra11b

INCOMING!

Keeping us in suspense...

[paverman]

Non GMT got my vote.

[George Ab]

SBGR055 as it is more elegant and in-line with the refinement of the GS. For me the GMT markings on the bezel are more what I would expect on a tool watch; does not fit with the character of the watch.

[sierra11b]

So I’ve owned the SBGR055 for half a day so far and here’s what I can say apart from it being a great watch :

THE DIAL

The build quality is fantastic and the dial stunning – This is where GS shines compared to Rolex and most other brands IMHO which truly shows in the flesh. I am surprised to see just how legible it is even in direct sun despite how the light dances with the dial. The color of the dial is hard to describe… Depending on the light it’s stark white, light silver, or cream. Because the grain of the dial is north to south it shows an almost polarizing effect as you turn your wrist east or west. The best way to describe this dial is very subtle Mother of Pearl.

The track dial, while unnecessary, really does serve to break-up the overall look of the dial well. I like to look at it as the outline on a color book drawing.

THE DATE WINDOW/WHEEL

A small detail of the watch which I often over look. With GS you seem to have silver and black date wheels with the mechanicals (same as the 8L35 and 9S55A) and white or black with their spring drives. In this case it’s a silver date wheel sitting inside a nicely polished window which works perfectly with the theme of the watch.

WEARABILITY

It wears very well and is just a tad top heavy but nothing noticeable. The feel of the watch on the wrist reminds me of the GMTIIC. Although it’s thicker than most other sports watches at 13.5mm (with its exhibition case back) it actually rests under the height of the Exp42 (12.5mm) which I wasn't expecting. I think it’s because the case back manages to nestle its way into the natural indentation on my wrist from always wearing watches.

THE SO-CALLED ”ZARATSU POLISH”

Let’s just call this what it is: Clever Marketing. The polished surfaces are brilliant but still comparable to Rolex. I mean there’s just so far one can polish a metal surface with tools and while I think it’s nicely done, it’s not the same as what a Togishi (Japanese Sword Polisher) can do with water stones and bags of time. I should know because I own a couple true Japanese swords in fresh polish (BTW, this level of true zaratsu polish can buy another GS alone).

True sword polish has a layered appearance which is hard to describe and almost reminds me of layered chrome or how a layer of highly shined shoe polish seems to float atop a shoe. This ain’t it and to call it as such is a disservice to true Togishi everywhere whom painstakingly polish inch after inch of blade steel to bone cutting sharpness. It's still very shiny!

THE CROWN

Nothing really negative to say about the crown although I generally dislike crowns which wind the watch as you re-thread... A small personal quirk which I feel takes away from ones ability to catch cross threading. Otherwise nothing too special -- quick set date and buttery smooth winding as should be expected.

BRACELET

Bracelet is very comfortable but there are some concerns… First off, let me just say that the bracelet is solid and the oyster links are almost exactly the same as Rolex in every possible way. Grand Seiko offers two style bracelets – the brushed 3-piece standard (which this is) and the 5-piece which has slightly polished sections on the center links much like a new Speedy bracelet.

The screws are TINY! I think eyeglass screws are larger! So a great deal of patience, a loupe, and a rag to catch the beads of sweat off your brow is required before committing yourself. Be sure to loctite these threads the first time around! You'll need a tiny flat head screw driver or file to whittle down a spare like I did.

The Half Links are a joke… Let me explain… They are comprised of two layers of steel which sit atop of one another and can easily separate. So while adjusting the bracelet the weight of the watch head ALONE managed to twist/separate a half link much like a hand peeling the skin away from an avocado. I thought I was being overly careful in sizing the watch and noticing the bend/seperation really came as a shock. If these links where folded over this wouldn’t have been a problem. Let me also clarify that the full links are solid which makes me wonder why the half links aren't?

I’m sure they work well as an integral part of the bracelet fully assembled but it’s worth noting that care must be taken when sizing should you need them. Really disappointed by this, though... Luckily I managed a perfect fit without the use of any half links. I will likely source an entire new bracelet (heard they’re relatively inexpensive here on TRF) and a few DOZEN spare screws as back-up for when they discontinue the model and/or bracelet.

PICTURES (I'll try to get some more although my skills are terrible and all I own is a smart phone)

[bcacncnc]

Congrats Eric...

Looks fantastic and thanks for the review. Wear it in good health.

[HL65]

Congrats!