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Old 1 April 2009, 06:27 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by RLX-lvr View Post
Good call. Or a pencil mark would do just fine.

Where on earth did you get that info from Alcan.? Nice.

Jeff - Rolex's site has the 45 Newtons info.
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Old 15 April 2009, 05:53 AM   #62
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That seemed like fun!
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Old 15 April 2009, 08:49 AM   #63
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your kiling me larry ! that was cool!
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Old 22 April 2009, 11:35 PM   #64
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This is professional the technique.
My First Lover is ZENITH Open T 40mm
But Now is 116710 and 1601 ~
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Old 20 December 2009, 06:04 AM   #65
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Larry - you're a braver man than me. Thanks for the great tutorial.
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Old 29 December 2009, 06:10 AM   #66
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very nice tutorial Larry, thank you.
One thing I do when removing any caseback, have a moistened q tip handy, and clean the mating surfaces as the caseback is carefully pulled up and away from the case. This helps prevent any foreign objects from falling onto the movement.
I was one of the architects for the BH RSC when it was built 10 years ago, and I got a tour of the watch repair floor when the Rolex factory guys had finished installing their equipment, a very impressive environment.
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Old 29 December 2009, 06:32 AM   #67
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Awesome tutorial, I wish I had the guts to try that on my own!
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Old 29 December 2009, 06:38 AM   #68
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Thanks for the education, great layout!
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Old 5 January 2010, 06:57 AM   #69
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Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 22 February 2010, 03:58 AM   #70
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If you don't feel like getting the tool set, I have a trick I learned a while ago to open any screw back without leaving a mark.

Gorilla Tape.

Wipe the case thoroughly to get rid of the grease from your arms. Take a strip of tape and roll it into a sausage. Firmly press it onto the centre of the case back and grab on tight. I usually hold the watch in my hand with a soft cloth and twist while pressing down firmly. It will open up a lot easier than you think most of the time - the only time it doesn't work is if some overzealous person previously overtightened it, then you need to break out the tools. It also works to close it very firmly, but of course you will want to have it checked by a watchsmith for water seal if you actually subject your watch to water.

The advantage is a roll of Gorilla Tape costs 8$ and can be found anywhere, and it won't leave a mark on your watch. I use this technique when opening vintage watches to verify the movements and numbers.
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Old 22 February 2010, 04:19 AM   #71
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Very cool... I would like to see an image if you ever get the chance...


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Old 22 February 2010, 04:23 AM   #72
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Im preety sure the torque stated in the post (45 inch lbs)
assures both gasket integrity & absolute waterproofness. About
the missalignment well, its a concern and a potentially catastrophic
one for sure
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Old 22 February 2010, 06:21 AM   #73
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Do you have to change the gasket and seals everytime you open the case back? That is what my watchmaker told me. He had to do so when I had him open my Daytona yesterday to look at the parachrome blue hairspring. It took him 2 minutes to open but almost 20 minutes to close after replacing the gaskets and seals. He also did the pressure test after. +2 secs and 50 hrs of power save was his findings about the watch.
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Old 13 March 2010, 03:37 PM   #74
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awesome post.
meteor flying to Earth onto my wrist...

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Old 6 August 2011, 12:06 PM   #75
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Thanks for the info.
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Old 6 August 2011, 12:09 PM   #76
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Great Post Larry ! Thanks for sharing!
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Old 6 August 2011, 08:32 PM   #77
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Nicely done and nice thread.
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Old 2 July 2012, 12:10 PM   #78
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Nicely done. Great picture tutorial.
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Old 31 December 2012, 07:50 PM   #79
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great info, thanks
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Old 13 June 2013, 06:29 AM   #80
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This was a great tutorial thanks!
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Old 4 August 2013, 02:43 PM   #81
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great post, thank you.

Is this an Otto Frei tool? If not where did you buy your case back opener
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Old 6 August 2013, 02:24 PM   #82
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When I was in the navy, the gaskets in our 1665's were "serviced" by a local in Korea - he used a wad of duct tape to open/close the backs!
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Old 30 September 2013, 01:02 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by Cc1966 View Post
When I was in the navy, the gaskets in our 1665's were "serviced" by a local in Korea - he used a wad of duct tape to open/close the backs!
Myself have used similar before I had the proper tool.

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Old 27 October 2013, 02:53 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by Duc-904 View Post
Great info! I think I need to stock up on some good tools. Thanks for sharing!
Definately! It really makes watch work much easier, more fun, and a hwole lot cleaner, language-wise. I have a pretty comprehensive set of hand and bench tools due to having worked in the business for years. When I ended my career in watchwork, I sold many items, but kept the most needed ones, since I always planned to keep my hand in it and, if nothing else, work on my own watches. I sold my bench (regrets!) but have a nice roll top desk to use in its place now. Al 3 of my cleaning machines have died (one motor and 2 need complete rewiring), but a nice, fully rebuilt one is on its way cheaoper than I could have rebuilt mine.
The right tools for the right job is a MUST!

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Old 11 August 2019, 08:09 PM   #85
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Nice tutorial.
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