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Old 19 January 2018, 07:47 AM   #1
Hoppyjr
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Vertex M100

Vertex M100 Review

Expectations vs. Reality

There is no doubt that all of us in the watch hobby have experienced this; the excitement of a new watch, only to be disappointed by the reality once it arrives and we see it in person. I sure have. Many times.

When I first saw the new Vertex M100 I immediately fell in love. I fell hard too. This was a watch that seemed a bit expensive, but I loved everything else about it and wanted one. I reached out to Vertex in an effort to buy, but the unique sales model didn’t allow for a direct sale. I was disappointed, but better before spending all that money than after receiving the watch...right?

I’m happy to say, this watch exceeded my expectations.


The Brand & Sales -

One can find information about Vertex history via other sources, so I’ll skip that. The sales model has been discussed in other reviews, but it’s true that you can only get the M100 by referral. The only exception is for owners of the original Vertex field watch, as they can buy one directly. I have since had a nice conversation with the man who brought Vertex back to life; Don Cochrane, and he explained it to me. Don found that some cool watches have become too commonplace, something he realized when he started seeing his beloved Panerai on the wrists of people who had money, but weren’t really “watch people” (my words, not his). I too had an experience like his when, after years of Panerai ownership I found two of my cousins wearing a “Panera” (the watch, not the bread) and having no clue about its history, other than it was pretty expensive. It was then that I sold mine and left the brand. Nice watches, but they didn’t feel “special” to me after that. Sure, we know Rolex is common too, but it has its own unique story and stellar after-sales service, so I give them a pass.

In any case, Don wanted to create a watch brand that would be a community and not simply one that could be purchased by anyone with the money to afford one. A brand where if you saw someone wearing one at the airport, you’d know they had their own story to tell. Some of those initially invited to Vertex are not hardcore watch people, but they are people who have a unique story to tell. Is this working? I can’t disclose numbers but the M100 has sold well. Very well. I haven’t seen a single one for sale in the secondary market. There is a reason why....


The Watch -

When he decided to bring his great-grandfathers brand back to life, Don wanted to use the opportunity to appeal to the watch enthusiasts and maintain a sense of the watches being special. Unique. Now this is a goal I can appreciate, but Vertex wouldn’t be successful unless the product meets or exceeds expectations. Spoiler alert; it does. At least for me.

Rather than follow the route used by the typical micro & boutique brands, Don wanted his watch to be Swiss Made and of quality that would meet the expectations of watch people like me. He sought out quality suppliers to ensure a quality product. It appears he has met this goal.

The fully brushed 40mm case is nicely finished and is well proportioned. The size is ideal for a modern military-styled field watch. It’s large enough to have presence, but small and light enough to wear very comfortably. Measuring 49mm in length - from tip of case to tip of case - it works on wrists large and small, the curved lugs help in this area. It’s about 11.5mm tall and accepts any 20mm strap. I haven’t weighed the watch head, but I’d say it’s about 65-70 grams - just right. The crown does not screw down, but a total of three seals give it water resistance to 100 meters. All good in my opinion.

The ETA 7001 winds smoothly and is quiet. The crown is large enough to grip easily, but small enough to be comfortable. I can’t report timekeeping yet.

A slightly domed sapphire crystal tops a dial that brings back that WWII military watch look, in a way faithful to the original Vertex and other “Dirty Dozen” watches of that era. On that dial you find 3D applied numerals, made of Super Luminova. These numbers appear to jump off the dial. It must be seen to be appreciated. The polished hands are the less commonly seen syringe style and they are both legible and nicely finished. They work perfectly I this design. The seconds hand is also polished and the seconds sub-dial is larger that I’m used to seeing, making it easier to read. The lume is outstanding and this is something that I always appreciate in a watch.

The M100 ships on a nicely made grey nato style strap and shoulder-less spring bars with a quick release lever. In the box is a leather strap with its own quick release spring bars. The box is the now standard Pelican case, but it comes secured by a Vertex branded combination lock.


Final Thoughts -

I don’t typically write watch reviews, generally preferring to let the photos do the talking. In this case I felt compelled to get more detailed, because I both appreciate and respect the idea of a watch that was designed for people like me. Watch enthusiasts - watch geeks, watch nerds - whatever you want to call us. This is that kind of watch.

I recognize that many people dislike the referral sales model and I can understand that. I was fortunate to find someone that gave me a “way in” to the Vertex family of owners and I’m glad to be among them.

Since there are plenty of photos already out there of the watch and it’s stock straps, I wanted to showcase it the way I will be wearing my M100 - on many of the aftermarket nato straps I already own and in real-world settings. These first photos are on Maratac brand nato straps, but I’ll share some photos on the excellent Toxic brand natos too.

What would I do differently? I’d give the watch drilled lugs and ditch the quick-release spring bars. That’s it.

* For you Rolex owners; this would be an outstanding companion piece to a 214270 or 114060, or for those fans of no-date watches.

I hope this review helps people gain a better sense of the watch and the company. These have sold very well and those in the USA may have some difficulty obtaining one. If you’re interested and serious about purchase, contact me and I will assist you if I can.

Hoppy


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Old 19 January 2018, 09:50 AM   #2
droptopman
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Nice review and great looking watch. Love the application of the numerals.
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Old 19 January 2018, 04:08 PM   #3
Allanmodel
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Thanks for review~~
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Old 19 January 2018, 08:37 PM   #4
Hoppyjr
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Comparison shots with a 16600.



Lume




Other straps

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Old 5 July 2019, 03:45 PM   #5
TimeOnHand
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Thanks for sharing your review... I too have seen this watch in person and absolutely loved it!
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