Advice needed - OP 34 vs OP 39

[RolexComplex]

Originally Posted by Watch Rob

Men or women can wear big or small watches, it doesn't matter. Just wear what you like.

Exactly. What’s with all this “34mm is for women” bs? If you like the 34mm, then get it. Buy and wear what you like.

[dmash]

Originally Posted by RolexComplex

Exactly. What’s with all this “34mm is for women” bs? If you like the 34mm, then get it. Buy and wear what you like.

Because it’s true....it is a size catered towards women. This is not a dress watch, it’s a sportier piece. I’m all for anybody wearing what they want/whatever fits right. But that’s like saying a Datejust31 isn’t geared towards women. Yes it is

[douglasf13]

Originally Posted by dmash

Because it’s true....it is a size catered towards women. This is not a dress watch, it’s a sportier piece. I’m all for anybody wearing what they want/whatever fits right. But that’s like saying a Datejust31 isn’t geared towards women. Yes it is

Sorry, I would agree on 31mm, but 34mm has long been considered the small end of Rolex man/unisex sizing.

[dmash]

Originally Posted by douglasf13

Sorry, I would agree on 31mm, but 34mm has long been considered the small end of Rolex man/unisex sizing.

Practically no AD, nor manufacture considers this true in 2018 though. Not really even basing my statements on my personal opinion, it's just the truth in modern time....

35-36mm is kind of the minimum for 'male' watches now, and those examples are always found on a leather strap. Would say 38-39mm on bracelet. Just the way time has evolved. If we were discussing a manual wind dress piece, I'd be inclined to say a 34mm could fit the 'unisex' category, but this is a sportier watch on a bracelet.

[Lew Archer]

In the OP, I prefer the 36mm. And, I've got slim wrists. The 36 is perfect. The 34 a shade small. I've got a 39mm Explorer, and that's a good fit, too. So, given you've chosen to limit it between 34 and 39, I'd recommend 39...

[mjclark32]

It comes down to the enivitable: gotta try them on. As you stated.
I have the 39 in blue and love it. I’m 5 10 175ish. With a 7” wrist

[douglasf13]

Originally Posted by dmash

Practically no AD, nor manufacture considers this true in 2018 though. Not really even basing my statements on my personal opinion, it's just the truth in modern time....

35-36mm is kind of the minimum for 'male' watches now, and those examples are always found on a leather strap. Would say 38-39mm on bracelet. Just the way time has evolved. If we were discussing a manual wind dress piece, I'd be inclined to say a 34mm could fit the 'unisex' category, but this is a sportier watch on a bracelet.

OP34- women, OP36- unisex, OP39- male.

Rolex is actually smart in how they don’t assign much in terms of gender on their site, outside of the lady DateJust 28, and retail employees at ADs usually don’t know what they’re talking about. 34mm has always been a unisex size.

If you think 38-39mm should be the minimum for a male on a bracelet, you’re living in 2009. More traditional sizes have been making a big comeback over the past few years.

[dmash]

Originally Posted by douglasf13

Rolex is actually smart in how they don’t assign much in terms of gender on their site, outside of the lady DateJust 28, and retail employees at ADs usually don’t know what they’re talking about. 34mm has always been a unisex size.

If you think 38-39mm should be the minimum for a male on a bracelet, you’re living in 2009. More traditional sizes have been making a big comeback over the past few years.

Can you please provide me some examples of popular 'male' watches on bracelet that are 36-37mm?

While you're compiling that, I'll list off the sizes of some of the most commonly discussed sport watches on this forum/social media.

Rolex:
Exp1- 39
Sub- 40
GMT2- 40
Daytona- 40
Exp2- 42
Sea Dweller- 43
Deep Sea- 44

Patek:
Nautilus-40
Aquanaut-40

AP:
Royal Oak- 41
Royal Oak Offshore- 42

Tudor:
BB58- 39 (Which is a literal 'throwback' to traditional sizes you speak of, yet they made it 39mm)
BB- 41
GMT- 41
Pelagos- 42



I look forward to you proving me wrong and verifying the legitimacy of your comment that I'm 'living in 2009'.

[Krash]

Definitely get what you prefer. I’m 5’10, 185 lbs with 7.25” wrists, so everyone on the Internet tells me I should wear a 40, 42, or 44.

I have a sub, and it looks good. I’m very happy with it, but if I get a Datejust, I’m definitely going with the 36. I think they look better on me.


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[logantrky]

I thought I would love the OP39 and it looked way too big on my wrist IMO. I went for the OP36 a year ago only because I tried it on at an AD first. It may be a pain to get to an AD depending on where you live, but it may save you some $$ in the long run. I am 6'2 190 with a 6.5" wrist.

[Krash]

Originally Posted by dmash

ok....can you please provide me some examples of popular 'male' watches on bracelet that are 36-37mm?

While you're compiling that, I'll list off the sizes of some of the most commonly discussed watches on this forum/social media.

Rolex:
Exp1- 39
Sub- 40
GMT2- 40
Exp2- 42
Sea Dweller- 43
Deep Sea- 44

Patek:
Nautilus-40
Aquanaut-40

AP:
Royal Oak- 41
Royal Oak Offshore- 42

Tudor:
BB58- 39 (Which is a literal 'throwback', yet they made it 39mm)
BB- 41
GMT- 41
Pelagos- 42

Datejust 36 is very popular and often discussed on this forum and in social media.


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[dmash]

Originally Posted by Krash

Datejust 36 is very popular and often discussed on this forum and in social media.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While I don't deny that, I think the *vast* majority consider a Datejust a dress piece. Furthermore, most ADs and a lot of people on this forum consider that a Unisex size.....DJ28 & 31 ladies, DJ36 unisex, and DJ41 men.

AP upsized the Royal Oak (twice)
Patek upsized the Nautilus
Rolex upsized the Explorer and Explorer 2
etc etc etc

I'm not trying to claim 42mm is the new min for sporty watches, I said a meager 38mm is pretty much the minimum manufacturers are producing for male watches on bracelets now and 35mm for a leather strapped dress piece. I think one is flat out ignoring reality to claim otherwise, it's simply the truth.

However, if Douglas can provide examples illustrating the 'big comeback' he speaks of, I'll happily admit I'm mistaken.

[epc2]

Buy what you like , I had an OP39 and sold it because for my liking it was too small, I'm 6' 210lbs, funny thing is that the guy I sold it to has an 8" wrist and he's very happy with it.

[Cloitus]

Get the 39mm. I have a 6inch flat wrist and have gone through same thing as you. 34 is way too small and you will most likely not wear it because of the size. Trust me and get the 39mm
Kind regards, Cloitus

[PJitz]

The OP34 is a great watch and will work on a variety of wrists. It wears larger than it's size, I think it would fit you great.

Honestly, I find myself cringing when guys talk about how they couldn't possibly wear a watch on the more classic end of the size spectrum.

[douglasf13]

Originally Posted by dmash

Can you please provide me some examples of popular 'male' watches on bracelet that are 36-37mm?

While you're compiling that, I'll list off the sizes of some of the most commonly discussed sport watches on this forum/social media.

Rolex:
Exp1- 39
Sub- 40
GMT2- 40
Daytona- 40
Exp2- 42
Sea Dweller- 43
Deep Sea- 44

Patek:
Nautilus-40
Aquanaut-40

AP:
Royal Oak- 41
Royal Oak Offshore- 42

Tudor:
BB58- 39 (Which is a literal 'throwback' to traditional sizes you speak of, yet they made it 39mm)
BB- 41
GMT- 41
Pelagos- 42



I look forward to you proving me wrong and verifying the legitimacy of your comment that I'm 'living in 2009'.

LOL I only bring up 2009, because I remember people saying how tiny a 40mm Sub was back then. Heck, for a moment in the '80s, people were spending crazy money on Rolex Bubblebacks that were only 31mm. When it comes to Rolex/Tudor, it's wise to stick with the traditional, long term sizing structure, because trends come and go.

I think the issue is you're assuming the sizes of sport watches like a Sub or GMT should be the same size as plain bezel watches like the OP/DateJust. It's all about dial size, and the 36mm DJ and 40mm Sub have the same dial size. A 36mm dive watch, like the new Rado Captain Cook, would likely feel too small to me, but a 40mm dive watch is just about right. Similarly, I have a 39mm first gen Aqua Terra that feels too large on bracelet, and I prefer the 36 DJ size.

Either way, my point isn't that there aren't popular larger watches out there. My point is that sizes have been trending down, and 34mm can still be in that unisex/grey area for men, depending on the type of watch is. You certainly wouldn't get a lot of bites on a 34mm dive watch, but 34mm still works for a "gentleman's" watch like the Rolex OP/Date/old Air King or old Tudor Dates and Rangers.

FWIW, a male writer at Hodinkee was just reviewing the 34mm OP a couple of days ago:

[NCD1979]

I’d go 39 all day long.

[dmash]

Originally Posted by douglasf13

Either way, my point isn't that there aren't popular larger watches out there. My point is that sizes have been trending down

My point, is that your statement is flat out incorrect. There are no manufacturers ‘trending down’ as you speak of, every one of the main manufacturers have upsized all their pieces. I also provided you sizing on the most popular pieces nowadays along with examples of models that were upsized by the same manufacturers. I don’t really understand what you’re even talking about.....you talk about a Rado 36mm diver and ‘old’ model Rolexes, but none of those pertain to what we’re really discussing, which is the luxury watch segment, in modern time.

Not trying to grill you on your opinion, it’s just that you keep saying as fact that watches are now getting smaller but it’s infact the complete opposite. Me stating 38mm is the minimum on a men’s sport bracelet piece today, is if anything, sort of conservative. Honestly most people would claim 39-40, as shown in the examples I listed, nothing is below 39. Your 2009 is everybody else’s 2018 I guess?

All in good conversation

[airchitect]

I have to say the 39 looks fine and is the flagship of that line so it gets all the goodies. Tried on the new black dial yesterday and it was so choice. My wife has 34mm red grape and I always think it’s just a damn fine watch.

[douglasf13]

Originally Posted by dmash

My point, is that your statement is flat out incorrect. There are no manufacturers ‘trending down’ as you speak of, every one of the main manufacturers have upsized all their pieces. I also provided you sizing on the most popular pieces nowadays along with examples of models that were upsized by the same manufacturers. I don’t really understand what you’re even talking about.....

Really? There has been an industry wide trending down in sizes over the last 5-7 years, and there are zillions of articles about it. All of those 40-41mm watches you listed above would have been considered somewhat small last decade. PAM popularity has fallen off a cliff, Breitling has been making smaller watch options, and you rarely see 44mm Royal Oak Offshores being bandied about anymore. Over the last 10 years, the regular sized Aqua Terra has gone from 39.2mm to 38.5mm to 38mm, there's now a Planet Ocean 39.5mm (which is actually more like 38.3mm,) and even the DD II and DJ II shrunk to DD40/DJ41 size.

[dmash]

Originally Posted by douglasf13

Really? There has been an industry wide trending down in sizes over the last 5-7 years, and there are zillions of articles about it. All of those 40-41mm watches you listed above would have been considered somewhat small last decade. PAM popularity has fallen off a cliff, Breitling has been making smaller watch options, and you rarely see 44mm Royal Oak Offshores being bandied about anymore. Over the last 10 years, the regular sized Aqua Terra has gone from 39.2mm to 38.5mm to 38mm, there's now a Planet Ocean 39.5mm (which is actually more like 38.3mm,) and even the DD II and DJ II shrunk to DD40/DJ41 size.

And (reverting back to the first statement you disagreed with) yet not a single example of one under 38mm?

Also, you truly just reiterated my entire point further. The planet ocean is in 39.5 and 43.5, you are correct.....and guess what....the former is a woman’s watch. So I guess Omega feels their flagship diver should be 43.5mm for a man.

In case you need proof:

https://www.omegawatches.com/watches...ection/product

[PJitz]

Originally Posted by douglasf13

Really? There has been an industry wide trending down in sizes over the last 5-7 years, and there are zillions of articles about it. All of those 40-41mm watches you listed above would have been considered somewhat small last decade. PAM popularity has fallen off a cliff, Breitling has been making smaller watch options, and you rarely see 44mm Royal Oak Offshores being bandied about anymore. Over the last 10 years, the regular sized Aqua Terra has gone from 39.2mm to 38.5mm to 38mm, there's now a Planet Ocean 39.5mm (which is actually more like 38.3mm,) and even the DD II and DJ II shrunk to DD40/DJ41 size.

This is absolutely true.

No one is arguing that 38-42mm is not still clearly the most popular size range for sports models.

[douglasf13]

Originally Posted by dmash

And (reverting back to the first statement you disagreed with) yet not a single example of one under 38mm?

Black Bay 36 and Rado Captain Cook 36mm?? Either way, the point is that sizes have been trending down for a while.

It almost doesn't matter what the other brands are doing, anyways, because we're talking about classic Rolex sizing that is always in style, which I was arguing last decade to those saying a 38mm Daytona (it's not really 40mm) or 40mm Sub was too small. There's a reason why wealthy and/or celebrity collectors are buying vintage Air Kings, Daytonas, Presidents, GMTs, Subs, etc.

[douglasf13]

Originally Posted by PJitz

This is absolutely true.

No one is arguing that 38-42mm is not still clearly the most popular size range for sports models.

[dmash]

Originally Posted by douglasf13

Black Bay 36 and Rado Captain Cook 36mm?? Either way, the point is that sizes have been trending down for a while.

It almost doesn't matter what the other brands are doing, anyways, because we're talking about classic Rolex sizing that is always in style, which I was arguing last decade to those saying a 38mm Daytona (it's not really 40mm) or 40mm Sub was too small. There's a reason that wealthy and/or celebrity collectors are buying vintage Air Kings, Daytonas, Presidents, GMTs, Subs, etc.

We can just agree to disagree. You have 2 models that fit into your logic of disagreeing with my original statement, meanwhile practically every modern Rolex and hot watch from the main brands fits into mine. Not to mention the above example you pointed out where Omega is branding a 39.5 as a woman’s watch. We can just leave it alone

[douglasf13]

Originally Posted by dmash

We can just agree to disagree. You have 2 models that fit into your logic of disagreeing with my original statement, meanwhile practically every modern Rolex and hot watch from the main brands fits into mine. We can just leave it alone

You're not even getting the point. Well, hey, I'm not the one telling people they're interested in a women's watch. That wreaks of new money/new watch enthusiast. You should go over to the vintage forum and tell those guys they're wearing women's watches and see what happens.

[dmash]

Originally Posted by douglasf13

Well, hey, I'm not the one telling people they're interested in a women's watch. That wreaks of new money/new watch enthusiast.

Follow up your rude comment of saying I’m living in 2009 with a shot at me being ‘new money’. Classy, when all I’ve done is give you clear cut examples that manufacturers are not producing anything under 38mm for men anymore.


Oh and by the way.....I believe Rolex should have the title ‘new money/new enthusiast’ as well. Guess who lists the OP34 definitively as a woman’s watch on their website?

https://m.rolex.com/watches/find-rolex/woman.html

[dmash]

Originally Posted by douglasf13

You're not even getting the point. Well, hey, I'm not the one telling people they're interested in a women's watch. That wreaks of new money/new watch enthusiast. You should go over to the vintage forum and tell those guys they're wearing women's watches.

Since you edited your post....


The entire point from the beginning was in MODERN time. And if you peruse this post from the beginning you will see where I even told OP that VINTAGE pieces are completely free to wear in whatever size. This was never about personal opinion nor vintage pieces. You made a claim of how modern sport watches on bracelet are being produced in smaller sizes *under 38mm*. Stick to your original point and don’t deviate to something different.

[EDL7]

If you are a guy going into a Rolex dealer..and they have the 34/36/39 OP's in stock.. which one do you think they will tell you is the best one for you..yup..you got that right the 39mm...the most expensive one..
When you tell them the 39 is too big and heavy..they say..ok...the 36 is still a "mens" watch..buy that one...it looks great on you..
But when you tell them 36 is still too big of a clunker..
They reluctantly let you try on the 34..and make sure to tell you its a unisex..or. even....a "ladies" watch..(implying..its really..not a ..."mans" watch...)
And just like the Goldilocks story..except you happily sleep in the smallest bed....you say..."its just right"...and they... reluctantly sell it to you..
As in...they just lost 1K on the sale..
...you saved 1K..
What did you think they were going to say..?
"Buy the $$ saver..it looks great on you!"...No way Jose'.
This is a true story that happened to me...except the part where they sell it to me..as in..the local AD refused to discount..so I got it out of state at 18% off..and..all the other benefits..that came with the out of state AD..
Don't know if they are still giving that kind of discount..as I got my 34 2 years ago..but they did then..

[PJitz]

Originally Posted by douglasf13

You're not even getting the point. Well, hey, I'm not the one telling people they're interested in a women's watch. That wreaks of new money/new watch enthusiast. You should go over to the vintage forum and tell those guys they're wearing women's watches and see what happens.

Dmash, this pigeonholing is the main issue. I happen to think <40mm watches look better on nearly every wrist but I'm not going to class >40mm watches as only for men, or only for large men.