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Old 5 March 2019, 09:02 AM   #1
GB-man
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New Urban Jürgensen One collection

UJ just announced a new entry to the sports watch field in SS today. Looks nice but maybe a touch thick compared to a RO or Nautilus. Also not sure I’m fond of the bracelet. Maybe a bit too nautilus themed.

41 mm and 13+ mm thick
120m WR
GMT version also available
No price announced

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Old 5 March 2019, 09:13 AM   #2
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Looks nice!
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Old 5 March 2019, 09:22 AM   #3
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An attractive SS sports watch needs a more bold and edgy design in my mind - this one's round and elliptical features give it a soft, pleasing, but also boring appearance I think ...
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Old 5 March 2019, 10:14 AM   #4
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...
GMT version also available
No price announced
...
https://monochrome-watches.com/hands...lection-price/

22.5K & 33.5K CHF, respectively.

Like the style of the bracelet, don’t like the GMT execution, and something about it looks too restrained, not aggresive/edgy enough — somewhat reminiscent of a Chopard L.U.C. Sport 2000.
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Old 5 March 2019, 10:54 AM   #5
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This is how you do a sports watch that keeps the brand DNA. I hope it's a success.
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Old 5 March 2019, 11:16 AM   #6
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This is how you do a sports watch that keeps the brand DNA. I hope it's a success.
I get the idea but if the brand DNA does not lend itself to designing a great sports watch - which it just doesn't in my view - you better break with such brand DNA in your sports watch or keep sticking to dress watches. Just my opinion of course... I don't mind it becoming a big success in the market but I seriously doubt it...
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Old 5 March 2019, 11:55 AM   #7
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I like the watch itself, simple clean lines, proportioned well, it’s a beauty .........





But that bracelet is wretchedly ugly, and the date/date window looks like a $50 Seiko !

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Old 5 March 2019, 12:17 PM   #8
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i think the watch looks hideous and lacks an original aesthetic...it is confused. I can't tell if they bracelet was inspired by the Nautilus, Laureto or the Omega Seamaster Polaris.

I'd didn't like the Moser Pioneer Diver either but compared to this mess they did a far much better job and to their credit even though it didn't appeal to me at all the majority of the feedback was positive.
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Old 5 March 2019, 01:27 PM   #9
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https://monochrome-watches.com/hands...lection-price/

22.5K & 33.5K CHF, respectively.

Like the style of the bracelet, don’t like the GMT execution, and something about it looks too restrained, not aggresive/edgy enough — somewhat reminiscent of a Chopard L.U.C. Sport 2000.
Thanks
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Old 5 March 2019, 01:44 PM   #10
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https://monochrome-watches.com/hands...lection-price/

22.5K & 33.5K CHF, respectively.

Like the style of the bracelet, don’t like the GMT execution, and something about it looks too restrained, not aggresive/edgy enough — somewhat reminiscent of a Chopard L.U.C. Sport 2000.
Ouch, that’s pretty expensive.
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Old 5 March 2019, 02:42 PM   #11
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Love it...but at 12-15 k I’d love it even more


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Old 5 March 2019, 04:33 PM   #12
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I want to want it, but it definitely looks and feels like a $12k - $15k watch than a $25k - $30k watch, to be honest.

Should be more in line with SS Daytonas than SS Pateks, if you ask me.

As it stands, I'm a pass. Despite wanting to want a UJ sports model. :(
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Old 5 March 2019, 06:27 PM   #13
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Ouch, that’s pretty expensive.
Such is the cost of true exclusivity, just like your GS and Credor.

Have to say, I was initially all for it — the hands being distinctively UJ — but given the 13.8 mm thickness, 21.6k vph to achieve 72 hours PR from twin barrels, and relatively lacklustre/uninspiring movement finishing, I’m decidedly 30:70 on it.

The unimaginative GMT design is dead in the water, since (bar the bracelet) you’d sooner buy a Laurent Ferrier for such a complication instead, at this price point.

Like as has been possibly intimated, I’d welcome seeing someone else enter the space, giving the RO and Nautilus a run for their money, even though the Overseas and Laureato should be fulfilling that role, and the Bvlgari Octos toos.
It’s not like the market is short of choice currently, especially as G-P provides material difference in the form of ceramic (and titanium/RG) and Bvlgari offering ultimate svelteness by way of the Finissimo models (also in titanium).
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Old 5 March 2019, 06:34 PM   #14
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It’s not like the market is short of choice currently, especially as G-P provides material difference in the form of ceramic (and titanium/RG) and Bvlgari offering ultimate svelteness by way of the Finissimo models (also in titanium).
100% agree!
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Old 5 March 2019, 09:20 PM   #15
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Such is the cost of true exclusivity, just like your GS and Credor.

Have to say, I was initially all for it — the hands being distinctively UJ — but given the 13.8 mm thickness, 21.6k vph to achieve 72 hours PR from twin barrels, and relatively lacklustre/uninspiring movement finishing, I’m decidedly 30:70 on it.

The unimaginative GMT design is dead in the water, since (bar the bracelet) you’d sooner buy a Laurent Ferrier for such a complication instead, at this price point.

Like as has been possibly intimated, I’d welcome seeing someone else enter the space, giving the RO and Nautilus a run for their money, even though the Overseas and Laureato should be fulfilling that role, and the Bvlgari Octos toos.
It’s not like the market is short of choice currently, especially as G-P provides material difference in the form of ceramic (and titanium/RG) and Bvlgari offering ultimate svelteness by way of the Finissimo models (also in titanium).
Yeah UJ makes quality watches, but these two initial SS offerings doesn’t attract me.

Edit: I’m going to Noma in April and will drop by their store to check them out.
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Old 5 March 2019, 10:03 PM   #16
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I like it a lot. From the Monochrome pictures it looks even better on the wrist.

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Old 5 March 2019, 10:57 PM   #17
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SS sport models are becoming the SUVs of the watch industry. Can't say I blame companies like Urban or Moser for trying to jump on the bandwagon and capture marketshare.

But, a part of me thinks this is oversaturation. I'd wish these smaller companies would focus R&D into producing something unique, and not just another SS diver with a bracelet and blue dial.
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Old 6 March 2019, 02:42 AM   #18
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A bit too thick and nothing particularly attractive. For that price, I would rather get a GO seventies or VC Overseas. I do like their dress watches however. The Alfred was in the right direction - approachable price, interesting dial, fluid case..., except the size. Sometimes I wonder if companies intentionally make watches less appealing in fear that demand will outstrip their capacity :-) If they come out with 38-40mm Alfreds I bet they will sell a lot more, and they knew it!
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Old 6 March 2019, 04:15 AM   #19
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I really like the dial, but am not too big on the bracelet. At that price, I'm priced out anyway.
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Old 6 March 2019, 04:32 AM   #20
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A bit too thick and nothing particularly attractive. For that price, I would rather get a GO seventies or VC Overseas. I do like their dress watches however. The Alfred was in the right direction - approachable price, interesting dial, fluid case..., except the size. Sometimes I wonder if companies intentionally make watches less appealing in fear that demand will outstrip their capacity :-) If they come out with 38-40mm Alfreds I bet they will sell a lot more, and they knew it!
I would've seriously considered an Alfred if it were 38-40. At 42mm, that's just too big for a casual dress watch for me.
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Old 6 March 2019, 05:04 AM   #21
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Help me here, I don't understand the pricing of this watch. It seems, based on other steel models UJ has sold, that this is a $15K watch with a $10K bracelet. At $7K more than a three hand AP Royal Oak, how does this succeed?
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Old 6 March 2019, 05:07 AM   #22
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I wish it was more restrained in size and thickness at that price range. More in line with the 15202, 5711 or VC Overseas Ultrathin, which is trying to compete with. At almost 14mm thick this watch is a brick for a time and date only.
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Old 6 March 2019, 11:12 AM   #23
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i think the watch looks hideous and lacks an original aesthetic...it is confused. I can't tell if they bracelet was inspired by the Nautilus, Laureto or the Omega Seamaster Polaris.
I think those two comments completely contradict each other.
If it doesn't not look like any other watch, then it is an original design.

It does not look confused to me. It looks like both the case and the bracelet use an arch an oval design, I think it is a good looking watch.

Having said that, at that price, no way.
Numerous choices I would take before that watch.
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Old 6 March 2019, 11:22 AM   #24
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I actually really like the look of these quite a bit. The price is definitely ambitious but I doubt they are making that many of these, I'm sure they will find a demographic.
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Old 6 March 2019, 12:20 PM   #25
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Having said that, at that price, no way. Numerous choices I would take before that watch.
I agree with this!!! Would rather have an AP Code 11:59 (just typing out the entire name of the AP -----really makes me wonder...how did their board or CEO actually approve it).
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Old 6 March 2019, 02:13 PM   #26
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I like it, have always wanted and UJ watch. Don’t think I would pay the retail price, but ina dee years if I could find one for a decent discount I would consider it. Very nice looking watch.
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Old 10 March 2019, 03:37 AM   #27
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The design cues from their regular watches are quite obvious, not sure if that is a good or bad thing. The bracelet looks a bit VC 222 inspired, which leads to the question: If the luxury sport watch field is so lucrative that even UJ gives it a go how come VC won’t rerelease the 222 in the historiques line. It should be a no brainer, they have the blue prints and seeing the prices of the original pieces it is going to sell.
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Old 10 March 2019, 04:48 AM   #28
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Meh. Looks awkwardly clunky . But then again, i feel the same way about VC overseas esp the chrono. At that price, so many other watches I would choose first.


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Old 10 March 2019, 04:41 PM   #29
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The design cues from their regular watches are quite obvious, not sure if that is a good or bad thing. The bracelet looks a bit VC 222 inspired, which leads to the question: If the luxury sport watch field is so lucrative that even UJ gives it a go how come VC won’t rerelease the 222 in the historiques line. It should be a no brainer, they have the blue prints and seeing the prices of the original pieces it is going to sell.
Doesn’t the VC 222 use the same movement that the AP RO 15202 uses? If that’s the case then VC would have to come up with their own ultra thin movement first.
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Old 10 March 2019, 05:45 PM   #30
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Doesn’t the VC 222 use the same movement that the AP RO 15202 uses? If that’s the case then VC would have to come up with their own ultra thin movement first.
That is correct and VC still uses that movement in the Patrimony line though
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