1675 question

[TimeToGo]

Dude -

The dial is relumed. The very same way hands get color matched, the reluming has gotten just as good. Look at all your replies here, they do not know the difference..

[Jimmy3993]

Originally Posted by TimeToGo

Dial is relumed as shown in the pictures..

Time to go- when you say “as shown in the pictures”, what are you referring to? What do you see in the pictures that I do not?
(Thx in advance!)


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[Jimmy3993]

Ok, looks like I have to assume that it is a relume dial. Which is a major bummer bc to me the dial was the prettiest aspect of the piece. And if that color on the plots is manufactured an not natural, well that ruins it for me anyway.


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[lee fowler]

Originally Posted by Jimmy3993

Ok, looks like I have to assume that it is a relume dial. Which is a major bummer bc to me the dial was the prettiest aspect of the piece. And if that color on the plots is manufactured an not natural, well that ruins it for me anyway.


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You don't have to assume it was relumed as you have been told that it is!!

[springer]

Originally Posted by snowflake

I thought 1970s is in the blue back period ... am I wrong?

Yes you are wrong...sorry.

[Jimmy3993]

Originally Posted by lee fowler

You don't have to assume it was relumed as you have been told that it is!!

Thx Lee. You are right of course. Ive been told that.
Assume might have been the wrong word. My eyes aren’t trained well enough to see the evidence of relume so I am taking yall’s word for it.


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[Jimmy3993]

Still, at 11.5 vs 14 to 16.5 for others that I am being shown, it is interesting.
I would think that if I did buy it and ever wanted to trade it for something else I’d have to disclose the relumed dial and the service insert. And if I swapped out the bezel assembly for something less polished I suppose that would have to be disclosed as well.
Thx all!


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[1665fan]

Early 70s red back late 70s blue back

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by Jimmy3993

Still, at 11.5 vs 14 to 16.5 for others that I am being shown, it is interesting.
I would think that if I did buy it and ever wanted to trade it for something else I’d have to disclose the relumed dial and the service insert. And if I swapped out the bezel assembly for something less polished I suppose that would have to be disclosed as well.
Thx all!


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Jimmy, my personal opinion is that you should stop thinking about this watch and move on. At $11.5k, it was already an expensive project before you knew that it was re-lumed. If you invest in making the bezel and insert right, you will easily be at $14k, and you will still have a polished and re-lumed watch. Wouldn't you rather invest the money in a nice original piece?

The only way I'd consider this watch was if I was getting it for a bargain basement price.

[lee fowler]

Originally Posted by Dan S

Jim, my personal opinion is that you should stop thinking about this watch and move on. At $11.5k, it was already an expensive project before you knew that it was re-lumed. If you invest in making the bezel and insert right, you will easily be at $14k, and you will still have a polished and re-lumed watch. Wouldn't you rather invest the money in a nice original piece?

The only way I'd consider this watch was if I was getting it for a bargain basement price.

It was advertised on here at $8500.

[lee fowler]

Originally Posted by 1665fan

Early 70s red back late 70s blue back

This is not correct either!

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by lee fowler

It was advertised on here at $8500.

Better.

[Jimmy3993]

Originally Posted by lee fowler

It was advertised on here at $8500.

Lee- can you post a link or tell me when it was posted more or less? I have paged through every 1675 listing from this year and haven’t found it.
Thx!

[Gray_Panther]

The 1 on 18 on the bezel looks slanted in all the pictures. Is that even an original bezel?!


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[Bagman]

Originally Posted by Dan S

I think you're slightly overstating how good a deal it is. As I mentioned above, the bezel assembly needs to be entirely replaced (not sure of price), you need a period correct insert (which is probably something like $2k and your time and effort to research and sort it out), and a bracelet ($1k). And then you will have a decent piece, but the lume on the hands and dial are mis-matched (which is not aesthetically ideal whether or not it is original) and the case is polished. And of course, it would be a fixed-up watch - not original.

So it's not a bargain, since you can probably get an original watch with a decent bracelet and case without these flaws for the same as you would pay to fix this one up. And that would involve a lot less trouble and risk. Personally, I wouldn't buy a project like this unless it was a real bargain - I've made that mistake in the past, but I wouldn't do it again. And if your friend tries to sell it on the open market, I'm not sure he would get his asking price.

Not trying to be critical here, but I just wanted to insert a note of realism, and suggest that a lower price would be more appropriate, given the condition of the piece. I'm sure that many of us have gone into a black hole with project pieces before; my feeling these days is that I'd want to be saving at least $1k-$2k to really make it worth my while. Otherwise, I'd just rather buy a nice original watch.

You mention a band price of $1000? Where could I find a jubilee for that price?



Richard B.
#16013 datejust, #216580 Explorer 2 (PVD’d), #16710 Pepsi#218238 yg President, #116610LV Hulk, #126600 Sea dweller, #126710 Pepsi

[springer]

Originally Posted by 1665fan

Early 70s red back late 70s blue back

I'm curious where you found this information of the blue-back bezel inserts being available during the late 1970s? As Lee mentioned, it is not correct.

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by Bagman

You mention a band price of $1000? Where could I find a jubilee for that price?

Well, it has been a while since I bought a vintage jubilee, and I was just trying to give a rough ball-park. But if I go to eBay and search for Rolex 6251, it doesn't seem that I'm too far off.

I'd certainly sell one of mine for that price. ;-)

[Father and Son]

You mentioned this is a 1973 year model. Is this a birth year watch for you/is that year important to you?

The reason I ask is that is my birth year. And for some time I wanted and was on the hunt for a 1973 pepsi GMT. And I couldn't find one. I found 1972 and 1974 that people thought/said were 1973... And when I made the observation to someone who knows more than me they said there was something going on that year and they didn't believe there were 1973 GMT Masters out there. I moved on.

So anyway- just wanted to point out that if 1973 is important to you then make sure this really is one because it might not be.. And if it turns out that it really is a 1973 and that is of significance then it might influence your decision to buy it since that year is so hard to find for GMTs...

Take care!

[springer]

Originally Posted by Dan S

Well, it has been a while since I bought a vintage jubilee, and I was just trying to give a rough ball-park. But if I go to eBay and search for Rolex 6251, it doesn't seem that I'm too far off.

I'd certainly sell one of mine for that price. ;-)

Remember, a correct GMT 6251 Jubilee has 50 end links - not 55.

55 end links are for the other 20mm lug models like Datejusts. Datejusts with Jubilees were plentiful back in the day as well as now - that's why so many vintage 6251 Jubilees are found with 55 end links .

When the D link Jubilees were introduced, the end link numbers were changed with the addition of a 5 to the number.
The Datejust end links number changed from 55 to 555 and the GMT end links changed from 50 to 550. This end link numbering system change can also be seen with other end links - such as the Submariners which went from 80 end links on the 9315 Oyster to 580 on the 93150 Oyster.

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by springer

Remember, a correct GMT 6251 Jubilee has 50 end links - not 55.

55 end links are for the other 20mm lug models like Datejusts. Datejusts with Jubilees were plentiful back in the day as well as now - that's why so many vintage 6251 Jubilees are found with 55 end links .

When the D link Jubilees were introduced, the end link numbers were changed with the addition of a 5 to the number.
The Datejust end links number changed from 55 to 555 and the GMT end links changed from 50 to 550. This end link numbering system change can also be seen with other end links - such as the Submariners which went from 80 end links on the 9315 Oyster to 580 on the 93150 Oyster.

Thanks for this clarification. It's great to have this as a reference to bookmark.

BTW, that member DM'ed me, and although his message was cryptic and lacked some necessary information, my best guess is that he has a 1990s ref 16710 with lug holes, so he probably wants a 62510 anyway.