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Old 23 June 2021, 07:01 AM   #1
loftycomfort
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Milestone purchase for 2022

Hello, I will have a major milestone in 2022, and would like to celebrate the occasion with a special higher end watch. I’m not particular on sport vs dress, either major brands or indies are ok. The watch just needs to be special (ie sings to me) and can be bought new from an AD (no pre-owned, no grey)

I have a few candidates in mind so far, and would like to know what else I should consider. The candidates so far, in no particular order are:

- Speedy Pro, rose gold on bracelet
- White gold Daytona on oysterflex 116519LN
- steel Moser heritage tourbillon
- steel Cartier Santos skeleton
- ALS 1815 chrono
- Credor Eichi II (this is a long shot)

What else should I consider?

My current collection consists of OP36, Pelagos, Octo Finissimo Ti, FPJ CS RG, WG Breguet tradition 7097, El primero revival a384, ALS WG Saxonia.

Watches that I won’t consider: Rolex steel sports, any AP, any Patek.
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Old 23 June 2021, 02:55 PM   #2
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ALS 1815 chrono
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Old 23 June 2021, 03:20 PM   #3
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Some watches I like off the top of my head..
Full gold Daytona
Gronefeld principia
Moser Aventurine dial
Lange zeitwerk
Full gold VC overseas
GP Laureato skeleton
Vacheron cornes de vache
FPJ Linesports

Can’t wait to see what you decide, how fun!
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Old 23 June 2021, 05:17 PM   #4
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Half the watches you have listed are not freely available from any AD's in my country.

From your list i would choose the ALS 1815 chrono

No Ap or Patek - how about Vacheron Constantin (rose gold 4500V/110R-B705)?

Good luck in your search, some amazing examples you have your eyes on!
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Old 23 June 2021, 05:21 PM   #5
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Great current collection and potential acquisition options; congrats in advance.

From your above list I would be inclind to go 1815 chrono or Eichi II, you're right though, the Eichi could be tough to buy new from an AD.

Additionally, perhaps the below could be added to your list of potentials:
-Laurent Ferrier, either Galet or Galet square
-Urban Jurgensen 1140 or 1142 depending if you prefer 40 or 42mm.
-Gronefeld Principia, as mentioned above.

Happy hunting!
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Old 23 June 2021, 10:00 PM   #6
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From that, grail worthy, list - 1815 Chrono. That is such a special piece, and you could get lost just looking at the case back.
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Old 23 June 2021, 10:23 PM   #7
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Enviable collection. I too like the Lange chrono. Even though I love chrono and the 1815 is splendid Iíve had my eye on a simple Lange 1 lately for some reason. I also favor the vacheron 1921 for a special piece.
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Old 23 June 2021, 10:53 PM   #8
loftycomfort
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Excellent suggestions. Thank you, everyone.

The 1815 chrono is a crowd pleaser for good reasons. It is a front runner for me as well. I also like the new request process that ALS implemented - it means I am more or less guaranteed the watch with a reasonable ETA as long as I can pony up the cash, no AD games played.

I'd LOVE to have a Gronefeld. Unfortunately, they don't have an AD in where I live. Maybe that will change next year, who knows?

Laurent Ferrier Galet Square is beautiful for sure. But for that kind of cash, I'd rather get an 1815 chrono.

I like the VC brand, though I have a hard time pointing to an exact reference that I like. The Overseas is too big for me, and the 1921 is too much like my FPJ CS.

Urban Jurgensen has no AD in my city.

I've tried on a full rose gold Daytona at a dealer before. It's a bit too blingy for my taste. The full WG version (blue dial with red accents) is gorgeous, but it's impossible to get at AD, and looks too much like my El Primero revival Liberty edition which I adore.

The Zeitwerk is super cool, but I admire it as an engineering feat more than something I'd wear on my wrist.

The Laureato is an interesting suggestion. I have not thought about it and will look into it more.

Moser aventurine dial - my Saxonia already has an aventurine dial so a Moser would be redundant.

FPJ Linesport - tried one on and it didn't sing to me. Still a cool collection, though.
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Old 24 June 2021, 12:15 AM   #9
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The 116519 LN is a great every day watch that can be dressed up or dressed down. I love mine.

But also love the 1815.

No need to look any further than these two.

If you do however feel the need to look elsewhere, how about Parmigiani?




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Old 24 June 2021, 12:31 AM   #10
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What about the Piaget Polo Skeleton? To me, the grey one looks gorgeous and yet industrial at first glance.
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Old 24 June 2021, 12:34 AM   #11
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I think you should consider a Czapek. Either the Antarctique or the Faubourg de Cracovie.






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Old 24 June 2021, 12:40 AM   #12
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Pink gold cdv?

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Old 24 June 2021, 02:57 AM   #13
loftycomfort
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Thank you for your suggestions again.

Parmigiani - doesn't really tickle my fancy.

Piaget polo skeleton - haven't thought about this yet. I think it's worth looking into more.

Czapek - I've only seen two watches in the metal so far. They looked good but I need to see more.

VC cdv - I think between the 1815 chrono and this, I'd pick the 1815.
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Old 24 June 2021, 02:59 AM   #14
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Milestone purchase for 2022

Datograph U/D in platinum.
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Old 24 June 2021, 03:35 AM   #15
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So many excellent options there, and you can't really go wrong with any of them.

That said, if you don't mind me asking, why would you not consider AP or PP? I know that they've become almost pastiches of themselves, but at the prices you're discussing, each has some spectacular watches, such as the AP Remaster 01 (awful name, stunning watch), or the new manual-wind PP calatravas, and their suite of perpetual calendars.





I've tried on an Eichi II in Wako, and was blown away. That said, it is a very simple, uniquely Japanese prospect. That wouldn't bother me; what would is that Seiko will not service their watches once ten years have elapsed. Not a big deal for a $500 Prospex or even a $10k GS, but at this elevated range, I'd really like the company to stand behind their products.

I like Czapek, and own one that I'm wearing right now. The company, though small, is punching above its weight and is exemplary to deal with. The Antarctique may be a bit pedestrian for what you're after (guessing you want something in precious metal, and fair enough), but the Faubourg de Cracovie is gorgeous, and also beats at 36k bph through an in-house heart.



The platinum VC Cornes de Vache is another one that I'd seriously consider in your situation. It sings on the wrist.

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Old 24 June 2021, 04:18 AM   #16
loftycomfort
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Originally Posted by mongrelnomoad View Post
So many excellent options there, and you can't really go wrong with any of them.

That said, if you don't mind me asking, why would you not consider AP or PP? I know that they've become almost pastiches of themselves, but at the prices you're discussing, each has some spectacular watches, such as the AP Remaster 01 (awful name, stunning watch), or the new manual-wind PP calatravas, and their suite of perpetual calendars.
I am located in Canada, and AP has abandoned the entire country - there are no ADs, no boutiques here. Don't believe me? Go to the AP website and search for Canada, there are zero retail outlets except a service center in Ottawa. I like the RO, but AP is practically a dead brand to me now without a retail footprint. I want to get the full AD/boutique treatment for this purchase, so buying grey or pre-owned is a deal breaker for me.

For Patek, it's a bit more complicated. The only Patek AD in my city (and just happens to be located a couple of blocks from where I live) is one which the owner takes pleasure in humiliating random walk-in customers. The last time I was there, I felt extremely unwelcomed as the owner was downright annoyed at me for being there on a slow workday afternoon. Its infamous poor service is well known within the local watch collector circle. I want to buy from a local AD, a store that I can build a relationship with, so buying from an out of town AD is not ideal. That rules out Patek.
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Old 24 June 2021, 05:00 AM   #17
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Fair and reasonable answers. No AP or PP then!
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Old 24 June 2021, 05:25 AM   #18
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Looks like I'm in the minority but I'm taking the RG Speedmaster here

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Old 24 June 2021, 05:44 AM   #19
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I have seen this story that Seiko does not service watches past 10 years before and while this may be true for some old lower value Seikos where Seiko corp no longer manufactures OEM parts I have never seen or heard that Credor or MAS will not stand behind their watches past 10 years. Could you please share a source? My assumption is that ppl are taking what may be true for the Seiko brand and perhaps mistakenly applying it to the entire Seiko group. I also recall seeing a comment in this forum from a user who said GS has stocked enough spare parts for 50 years so I really am not worried about a lack of servicing for an Eichi 2. All Eichi servicing is done by MAS and that team is really the crown jewel of the group.

I have a GBLT999 and a 414.028. Both are amazing. I think the ALS 1815 chrono is more impressive to look at and perhaps the safer choice but the Eichi is my favourite. There is nothing in the world like a MAS spring drive porcelain dial watch and I will never sell it.

Unless things have changed very recently the Eichi is still available from boutiques via order. I bought mine from an AD but was also told I could order a GBLT998 with a 3 month wait. There is also the new GBLT997 just launched late 2020 but I would recommend a white dial over the blue.
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Old 24 June 2021, 05:49 AM   #20
fullofboats
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I would also recommend Cartier prive collection. The current Tank Cintree or Asymetrique are very nice
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Old 24 June 2021, 05:57 AM   #21
loftycomfort
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Looks like I'm in the minority but I'm taking the RG Speedmaster here
You know, a solid chunk of gold that's robust enough for atmospheric re-entry with a bomb-proof movement may not be a bad idea.
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Old 24 June 2021, 06:01 AM   #22
loftycomfort
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Unless things have changed very recently the Eichi is still available from boutiques via order. I bought mine from an AD but was also told I could order a GBLT998 with a 3 month wait. There is also the new GBLT997 just launched late 2020 but I would recommend a white dial over the blue.
My reservation with the Eichi is not with parts/service concerns, it's because its ultra low production volume means I may not actually be able to acquire one. Also, I am not sure if I like it that much to shell out 1815 chrono money for a time only watch (same with Laurent Ferrier).

The Cartier Prive collection is another one I should look into. Thanks for suggesting.
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Old 24 June 2021, 06:03 AM   #23
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Nice list, and agree with others about ALS. Plus then you'll have leapfroged over Patek by going ALS, unless you can swing FP Journe. So yeah, pleeeease consider ALS.
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Old 24 June 2021, 06:12 AM   #24
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Czapek - I've only seen two watches in the metal so far. They looked good but I need to see more.
I have been shown a preview of whats coming this year from Czapek but cant say much unfort. But i think there is 1 piece which will check all your boxes.

On the other hand, i suppose you can never go wrong with a DD40. Iíd have it fully decadent in yellow gold with a yellow gold dial.


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Old 24 June 2021, 07:08 AM   #25
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For me it'd come down to the Credor or the Lange.

A local collector/friend has a Credor Eichi II (and a Lange 1815 Chrono 414.026), so I've gotten to spend some time with the Eichi II. It's pretty incredible in person and would add to the diversity of your collection. I know what you mean about not quite liking it enough to pull the trigger, though. The fact that you wrote this would give me pause.

You can rarely go wrong with a Lange, though you probably know that since you already have one. You said you'd only buy new, and normally I'd never suggest that anyone buy a new 1815 Chrono (assuming a healthy supply of preowned ones were out there) unless they had money to burn. But nowadays Lange's preowned prices are climbing, so buying new makes more sense. Not sure if you like the Lange 1 look, but if so, consider the newly introduced Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar.

Given what you already own, the Rolex/Omega/Cartier wouldn't feel special in comparison.
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Old 24 June 2021, 07:08 AM   #26
loftycomfort
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I have been shown a preview of whats coming this year from Czapek but cant say much unfort. But i think there is 1 piece which will check all your boxes.

On the other hand, i suppose you can never go wrong with a DD40. Iíd have it fully decadent in yellow gold with a yellow gold dial.


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I canít wait to see the new Czapek.

Funny enough, I have my late fatherís 36mm YG DD with diamonds indices (it was his milestone purchase). Itís kind of a safe queen as I feel that it wears me.
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Old 24 June 2021, 07:10 AM   #27
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I too absolutely love the DayDate (like, unhealthily so, especially with baton indexes and 36mm) but it’s just too much of an icon for me to comfortably contemplate.
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Old 25 June 2021, 11:42 PM   #28
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I have to say 1815 Chrono. Has the finishing needed for a special piece as well as the complications. Just a perfect watch. They are getting very hard to source now. Got mine in feb, ordered prior year. The boutiques has not got another one since mine came in! They used to always have one or two in stock.
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Old 28 June 2021, 12:18 PM   #29
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Looks like I'm in the minority but I'm taking the RG Speedmaster here



100 percent. Alot of full gold daytonas but you won't see this in the same room.

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Old 28 June 2021, 08:10 PM   #30
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As others suggested, VC CDV is my vote, you should try it on at least. It’s incredible!
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