Warped Easylink on New GMT-Master II

[PaulaHammond]

26July2009
Hi Rolex Fans ;oD
Paula here in Phoenix, Arizona, USA. Just had to return a factory new Rolex GMT-Master II #116713LN Steel & Gold. In short, the two Easy-Link bars were somewhat twisted, causing the bracelet to be angled as it exited the clasp. The angling occurs when the Easy-Link was snapped closed, and did not show up with the link opened so as to enlarge the bracelet. The rest of the watch was beautiful. After the return, I shopped around different Rolex Dealers and found the same problem on the five new watches of that model that I looked at. Some worse than others. On two other model numbers with that same Oyster Clasp, the Easy-Link and bracelet was perfectly straight. So it's a factory defect! Another #116713LN has been ordered, factory direct, and hopefully, it will be with a straight Easy-Link. Or, if the twisting is not too bad, I may just decide to live with it and purchase the watch. To fix the problem, the Easy-Link can be easily replaced, but the Rolex store said Rolex won't send a part like that for a new watch. I used a jewelers headband magnifier to examine the watches. I hope Rolex reads this and corrects the problem. Sorry if I am such a pain.
Paula

[YuppieKid]

1st, welcome to the Forum. Secondly, do not "settle" for anything - especially since you are paying an arm and a leg for a watch that has enjoyed a reputation for being perfect. If you're just going to "settle", then you may as well get a Seiko.

[sexner]

Welcome to TRF, Paula.

Insist that your bracelet be made "right" to your full satisfaction.

[Gagebuilder]

Sorry to hear of your problem. I acquired a V series tt GMT Master IIc last week so thanks for the heads up. I inspected mine for quite a few minutes, twice, and all seems OK to me. I think I lucked out!

[PaulaHammond]

31August2009 Monday 7:33PM

Hi Rolex Fans ;oD
Paula here in Phoenix, Arizona, USA. Well, I have owned my Rolex GMT-Master II #116713LN Steel & Gold watch for exactly one month, now. Purchased it factory new at a Rolex AD in South Phoenix on 31July2009. It was one right out of the store's safe, never having been handled since the factory. It's the best watch I have ever owned, and I am amazed at the wonderful design and workmanship of this instrument. I am very pleased with it, overall. It's a "keeper". However the aforementioned somewhat twisted Easylink was still there as it was on all of the other ones I looked at of this same model number. Fortunately the twisting was not nearly as severe as some of the others, so I bought it, and absolutely no regrets. I figured that if all the watches of that new model are like that, just maybe the slightly angled band was designed that way to fit your wrist a bit better. It actually does, in practice, seem to match the taper of my wrist at that point ( Hmmmmmm, might not be a factory defect, after all! ). So, I am happy, and have decided to just let it go. If I get too "hyperpicky", I will never get my watch, I told myself. One other strange thing that happened on the first day and nite. I had looked the watch over very carefully in the store with a 10X Loupe and a jewelers headband magnifier before I "Sprung My Plastic" ( Visa Card ) and purchased it. I did not see any scratches on the watch, anywhere. Then the jeweler took the watch into the back room for a minute before we put it into the box to take home. Something about photographing the watch for insurance purposes, or something. I got home and started looking at the watch, checking it out, and lo and behold there was one heck of a big scratch, and a little "dig" near it on the one-o'clock case lug on the visible top of the lug. I either overlooked it in the store, or the jeweler did it deliberately after I inspected it. I may not have bought it if I had seen the mark. Maybe it was like that from the factory, but I can't prove it now! Could the jeweler have marked the watch for some kind identification purposes? I thought that was what the serial number was for. The scratch may have had something to do with putting on the watch band and compressing the spring pins during assembly and testing at the factory, maybe a slipped spring pin tool, I don't know. Anyhow, there it was, and since I had gone to about 5 or 6 other jewelry stores, and rejected as many other of their scratched and shop worn new watches of this model, I decided to again just let it go, be happy, and tell myself that this is the best that can be done. I had run out of Rolex Dealers and impatient clerks to visit in Phoenix, anyhow. Probably happened during the Chronometer Testing Phase when they had to remove or put on the watch band. Not even the Rolex Technicians are perfect, and it just slipped by, I guess. Seems like, if it is not one thing, it's another.

Now that I am done "bellyaching", some happier things. I timed the watch for 10 days against the Federal National Bureau of Standards shortwave WWV signal from Fort Collins Colorado, and the watch is well within the COSC Swiss Chronometer Spec of -4+6 seconds per day. The watch loses 2.47 seconds/day. That's -1.24 minutes/month. Not bad for a mechanical watch. I tried to make the watch catch up, overnite, by placing the watch "dial up" on the dresser, but this did not seem to help it. I read that this newer movement does not respond to "Positional Correction". That's good, actually. Wouldn't it be cool if there was a way to adjust the speed of the movement from outside the watch without having to open the back? Like maybe another click on the crown, or something? The old time pocket watches had a little lever that you could adjust to get the timing just right.

One person on this forum mentioned that he did not like how the watchband "squeaked" on his new GMT II. Well, "The squeaky wheel gets the oil", as they say. What I have been doing for years, is oiling my watchband. Sounds funny, but it works. I use "Super-Lube multi-purpose synthetic oil with Syncolon (PTFE), and, after making sure the crown is screwed down all the way, I just slobber it on the entire watch band and even the bezel, moving the band and turning the bezel so the oil will seep into all the moving parts. Then, I get a soft paper towel or a clean old T-shirt and wipe off as much as I can. I even take a sharp wooden toothpick and put a tiny speck of this great lubricant on the threads of the unscrewed crown of the watch and on the O-ring there. Make sure to screw the crown back down so no excess oil will get in there. It's a very good stainless steel and compatible o-ring lube. Don't put on too much there, however, or it may get inside the case and movement, not a good thing. The band then flexes quietly and silky-smooth and the bezel, with it's detents, moves silky-smooth as well. The oil will keep the band from becoming loose and rattley from wear, and, if you renew the oil every few months, will help keep abrasive grit out of those sliding parts, too, also preventing wear. The oil will also help keep perspiration or salt water from seeping into the moving parts, drying, and gumming up the works. You can order Super-Lube online from SYNCO CHEMICAL CORPORATION, at "www.super-lube.com". Anyhow, that is what I do. Seems to me better than dry metal rubbing against dry metal.
Your Pal,
Paula

[PaulaHammond]

31August2009 Monday 7:33PM

Hi Rolex Fans ;oD
Paula here in Phoenix, Arizona, USA. Well, I have owned my Rolex GMT-Master II #116713LN Steel & Gold watch for exactly one month, now. Purchased it factory new at a Rolex AD in South Phoenix on 31July2009. It was one right out of the store's safe, never having been handled since the factory. It's the best watch I have ever owned, and I am amazed at the wonderful design and workmanship of this instrument. I am very pleased with it, overall. It's a "keeper". However the aforementioned somewhat twisted Easylink was still there as it was on all of the other ones I looked at of this same model number. Fortunately the twisting was not nearly as severe as some of the others, so I bought it, and absolutely no regrets. I figured that if all the watches of that new model are like that, just maybe the slightly angled band was designed that way to fit your wrist a bit better. It actually does, in practice, seem to match the taper of my wrist at that point ( Hmmmmmm, might not be a factory defect, after all! ). So, I am happy, and have decided to just let it go. If I get too "hyperpicky", I will never get my watch, I told myself. One other strange thing that happened on the first day and nite. I had looked the watch over very carefully in the store with a 10X Loupe and a jewelers headband magnifier before I "Sprung My Plastic" ( Visa Card ) and purchased it. I did not see any scratches on the watch, anywhere. Then the jeweler took the watch into the back room for a minute before we put it into the box to take home. Something about photographing the watch for insurance purposes, or something. I got home and started looking at the watch, checking it out, and lo and behold there was one heck of a big scratch, and a little "dig" near it on the one-o'clock case lug on the visible top of the lug. I either overlooked it in the store, or the jeweler did it deliberately after I inspected it. I may not have bought it if I had seen the mark. Maybe it was like that from the factory, but I can't prove it now! Could the jeweler have marked the watch for some kind identification purposes? I thought that was what the serial number was for. The scratch may have had something to do with putting on the watch band and compressing the spring pins during assembly and testing at the factory, maybe a slipped spring pin tool, I don't know. Anyhow, there it was, and since I had gone to about 5 or 6 other jewelry stores, and rejected as many other of their scratched and shop worn new watches of this model, I decided to again just let it go, be happy, and tell myself that this is the best that can be done. I had run out of Rolex Dealers and impatient clerks to visit in Phoenix, anyhow. Probably happened during the Chronometer Testing Phase when they had to remove or put on the watch band. Not even the Rolex Technicians are perfect, and it just slipped by, I guess. Seems like, if it is not one thing, it's another.

Now that I am done "bellyaching", some happier things. I timed the watch for 10 days against the Federal National Bureau of Standards shortwave WWV signal from Fort Collins Colorado, and the watch is well within the COSC Swiss Chronometer Spec of -4+6 seconds per day. The watch loses 2.47 seconds/day. That's -1.24 minutes/month. Not bad for a mechanical watch. I tried to make the watch catch up, overnite, by placing the watch "dial up" on the dresser, but this did not seem to help it. I read that this newer movement does not respond to "Positional Correction". That's good, actually. Wouldn't it be cool if there was a way to adjust the speed of the movement from outside the watch without having to open the back? Like maybe another click on the crown, or something? The old time pocket watches had a little lever that you could adjust to get the timing just right.

One person on this forum mentioned that he did not like how the watchband "squeaked" on his new GMT II. Well, "The squeaky wheel gets the oil", as they say. What I have been doing for years, is oiling my watchband. Sounds funny, but it works. I use "Super-Lube multi-purpose synthetic oil with Syncolon (PTFE), and, after making sure the crown is screwed down all the way, I just slobber it on the entire watch band and even the bezel, moving the band and turning the bezel so the oil will seep into all the moving parts. Then, I get a soft paper towel or a clean old T-shirt and wipe off as much as I can. I even take a sharp wooden toothpick and put a tiny speck of this great lubricant on the threads of the unscrewed crown of the watch and on the O-ring there. Make sure to screw the crown back down so no excess oil will get in there. It's a very good stainless steel and compatible o-ring lube. Don't put on too much there, however, or it may get inside the case and movement, not a good thing. The band then flexes quietly and silky-smooth and the bezel, with it's detents, moves silky-smooth as well. The oil will keep the band from becoming loose and rattley from wear, and, if you renew the oil every few months, will help keep abrasive grit out of those sliding parts, too, also preventing wear. The oil will also help keep perspiration or salt water from seeping into the moving parts, drying, and gumming up the works. You can order Super-Lube online from SYNCO CHEMICAL CORPORATION, at "www.super-lube.com". Anyhow, that is what I do. Seems to me better than dry metal rubbing against dry metal.
Your Pal,
Paula

[PaulaHammond]

4September2009 Friday 9:02PM

Hello Rolex Fans ;oD
Paula here in Phoenix. Oops, I didn't mean to post the same thing twice. I wanted to delete that last one, but I didn't see any edit button. I like to be neat when I do things!

Did you ever think that your all-mechanical Rolex may be the only timepiece around that is still working? Well, that could happen in a terrorist EMP or Electromagnetic Pulse attack. That's when a terrorist group manages to shoot a nuclear tipped missile maybe 250 miles above the atmosphere of the United States and detonate it. This would burn out anything electric or electronic that was not hardened against the powerful pulse. Military stuff is hardened against this pulse, but forget it for the civilian population. We would be knocked back to the late 1800's, and who has a horse to ride in this day and age? Have you checked your oil lamps, lately? It is my belief that the mechanical Rolexes will "take a licking and keep on ticking", as the old saying goes. Nothing to burn out. Of course, who will care what time it is in the New Stone Age?
Your Pal,
Paula

[isolator]

Welcome from a fellow newbie.
Don't feel bad about being too picky.
If it was a Citizen....
I feel part of the reason some of us choose Rolex is for the attention to detail.
For the prices we pay, Rolex needs to address the issue.
Did the jeweler take links out of the band for you? Is it possible he scratched the watch during this procedure?

[PaulaHammond]

14September2009 Monday

Hi Isolator ;oD
Paula here in Phoenix. Unfortunately, I have Obsessive Compulsive Disorder driving my pickyness, among other problems, and I am my own worst enemy. No, the jeweler did not mess with the links, as the watch fit perfectly out of the box. Thank God for that. It was probably scratched like that from the factory and they just missed it. The way the EasyLink was angled ( Most people would not notice or care, it's angled just a little. ), it made a band taper that matched the taper of my left wrist, but was opposite the taper of my right wrist. I switch off left and right. Actually, I don't notice any difference in actually wearing the watch, but I still remember it's there. Still, Rolex needs to make a statement about it, or something. I'm expending more energy than it's worth.

Another issue has come up. I rinse the watch under the faucet in warm water to clean it after I do my fitness walk in the Phoenix heat. I perspire a lot in the 100F heat even at nite when I go out, and the persperation dries and forms salt crystals on the bracelet. So what happened is that the water collected under the bezel of the watch and caused the lubrication ( the oil I seep into the bezel as per previous posts ) to be ineffective. The water made the bezel feel very grindy and stiff when I turned it. I was in a major panic over it, as I thought I would have to send the watch in for repair, and would the oil void the warranty? Anyhow, I tried this and that, and prayed over it a lot as well, and discovered that if I apply compressed air to the bezel gap ( I use a rubber ear syringe without touching the watch ), that I could blow out the water that was in there messing up the ball bearing contact for the detents in the bezel. After adding another dot of the oil to the bezel and working it in a bit, this fixed the problem and the bezel is back as silky smooth as before. I guess the water displaced the oil on the bearings and caused minor ( I hope ) galling. Rinsing the watch IS the recommended cleaning procedure by Rolex ( maybe with a little soap in the water which you would rinse off after ), but they didn't say anything about what happens if you leave the water under the bezel. So, anyhow, I will now blow out the water from under the bezel with the ear syringe after every time I wash the watch, and maybe seep in a bit of the lube into the crack between the bezel and the crystal. I wonder if that grindy problem would occur with the water in there if I had never put in any of the oil. Are those bearings intended to work smoothly with no lube in there? Maybe the soap residue from washing as recommended would lube the detent bearings, as once the soap is in there, you can't rinse it out. No information. I want to care for my new stuff, but it seems I tend to get into trouble sometimes.
TaTa,
Paula

[Brushpup]

Hi Paula and welcome to TRF.

Nothing wrong with caring well for your expensive watch, but please...you worry way to much. The bezel is made to work with no lube and there is no need to put it on. Leaving oils under it will attract and hold gritty things so best not to that. Washing you watch often is the best PM you can do. Don't worry about removing the soap or water with air, as a thorough rinse is just fine. Stop worrying yourself and enjoy the fine watch.

[PaulaHammond]

3October2009 Saturday 4:47PM

Hi Brushpup :o)
Paula here in Phoenix. I think you are right. Too late for me to try the soap and water wash, now. No way to get the oil out except to send the watch in for a cleaning. I wish Rolex had gone into a little more detail in the instructions and had given a warning about not using anything except soap. Of course I would have used dishwashing detergent, instead of soap. That would have done a better job of cleaning. If I get another Rolex sometime, I will hold off on the oil and see how soap, only, will work. Anyhow, I don't think I hurt anything with the lube, as the band and bezel are buttery smooth, now. Especially since I found another lube that's much better than what I was using. If I can't go back to the dry bearings in the bezel, at least I can go forward with the lube. The lube I was using before was "Super-Lube multi-purpose synthetic oil with Syncolon (PTFE)", and a water rinse tended to wash it out or displace it. Come to think of it, those ceramic ( Not metal. ) ball bearings in the bezel may even repel the oil and attract the water, spoiling the lubricating action of the oil. Just dripping it on the crack between the bezel and the crystal didn't seem to make it flow in far enough to get to all the parts that rub. So, I switched to another product of Synco Chemical Corporation called, again, "Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Lubricant with Syncolon (PTFE)". You can get it online at www.super-lube.com. This stuff makes the band and bezel "buttery" smooth after it cures ( The harmless solvent that thins it has to evaporate. ), and doesn't wash off in a water rinse. The lube is actually Super Lube Synthetic GREASE, a heavy duty lubricant, and it comes in a spray can with a little extender tube. The stuff is very penetrating, and I kind of inject it into the bezel by placing the end of the plastic extender tube on the crack between the bezel and the crystal and give it a squirt in 4 or 5 places. I also spray the entire band with it, too, and I move the bezel and the band around a bit to work it in. It takes overnite for the solvent to evaporate so the bezel feels smooth when you click the detents. I blot off the excess with a paper towel. Make sure the crown is snugged down all the way so nothing gets into the movement. I use thin neoprene gloves to protect my skin, and I do the spraying over a large trash can, as the spray goes all over the place when you do it. This thin solvent diluted grease actually acts like the soap and water wash when you spray the entire watch with it and wiggle it around a bit. The solvent acts kind of like a cleaner. This syntheic grease lasts a long time, in my experience so far, and no apparent harm. And I think grit will get into the bezel and stay, no matter what is in there. The grease may even catch it before it falls into the sliding parts. Anyhow, for those who want to try the lube method of care for their Rolexes, this is my experience, and you are welcome to try it. Maybe do this four times a year or so, and don't put too much into the bezel, after the first time. And just to be thorough, maybe spray a tiny bit of the lube on to a toothpick, and put a very small amount on to the O-ring and threads of the unscrewed crown and let it dry before you screw the crown back down again. That lube is rated as a good O-ring lube, too. Try the dry method, first, and let me know how it works so I will know next time.
See Ya,
Paula

[casper370z]

Paula,

I had the same problem (Easy link warp) with my GMT II. I had bought it from an AD and when I told them about it they saw it. Since mine also had a spec of dust inside the crystal I had them replace it with a new one. The new one still had the warp but not as bad as the first one.

Mark

[Atlas750]

Just checked my new GMT Master II and it's perfect. Had me going for a minute there. Thanks for the heads up, it should be perfect. I would not hesitate to make an issue of it if it were anything less. Great watch and love the easylink! Also have it on a new Datejust.

[chilok]

Originally Posted by PaulaHammond

26July2009
Hi Rolex Fans ;oD
Paula here in Phoenix, Arizona, USA. Just had to return a factory new Rolex GMT-Master II #116713LN Steel & Gold. In short, the two Easy-Link bars were somewhat twisted, causing the bracelet to be angled as it exited the clasp. The angling occurs when the Easy-Link was snapped closed, and did not show up with the link opened so as to enlarge the bracelet. The rest of the watch was beautiful. After the return, I shopped around different Rolex Dealers and found the same problem on the five new watches of that model that I looked at. Some worse than others. On two other model numbers with that same Oyster Clasp, the Easy-Link and bracelet was perfectly straight. So it's a factory defect! Another #116713LN has been ordered, factory direct, and hopefully, it will be with a straight Easy-Link. Or, if the twisting is not too bad, I may just decide to live with it and purchase the watch. To fix the problem, the Easy-Link can be easily replaced, but the Rolex store said Rolex won't send a part like that for a new watch. I used a jewelers headband magnifier to examine the watches. I hope Rolex reads this and corrects the problem. Sorry if I am such a pain.
Paula

Paula,

Could you post some picture about the easy link problem you have?

[Alan111]

x2 - Can you post a picture of what a 'warped' easylink looks like?

[hrhazzard]

I just purchased a Dayton 116503 on this past Friday and the Easy-Link is angled as well. Fro 17 grand I am going back to the AD and complain. It is too expensive to be this way. I just cant believe it. So disappointed. They will take it back and replace it right?

[dj-dulux]

It seems pretty common, but many don't notice it. I only spotted mine after a couple weeks when putting on a winder cushion. I spoke to rolex service in London and they wanted the whole watch back to assess, couldn't be bothered, mines only a bit out, still irritating... Once I have a second rolex I may send it off, my AD was happy to do it, but didn't want to loose the watch for several weeks, my AD can not get the part to do it in house.

Dupe...

[mitch57]

Could someone please post a picture of the problem?

All this discussion about a warped easy link issue but not even one picture/video of what the actual problem looks like.