Incoming dress watch

[acaixguard]

I have been on the hunt for a proper dress watch for several years. My modest collection up until today consisted of the Rolex SD4K (116600) and an older Datejust (16014). The SD4K is my daily wearer, but it is a bit too thick to go under a dress shirt cuff. The Datejust fits better, but it wasn't the right look and feel I was going for when dressed up.
I always wanted something on the level of a PP/AP/VC/ALS, but cost is obviously a factor. Because of that, I looked at the JLC steel watches, such as the various MUT models and the Reverso. I considered the IWC Portuguese models too. Basically I was all over the place, but I knew what qualities I wanted in my ideal dress watch. Minimal to no complications, precious metal case and rose gold being ideal, display caseback, preferably a manual wind movement, and obviously a leather crocodile strap. Size, I was looking at 38-40mm.

This past winter, I was trying on various dress watches just for kicks at a NYC AD. I saw the ALS Saxonia thin, and tried that on. Initially, I thought I would be dismissive of it, because it is "only" 37mm. I was amazed at how it just somehow worked. My wrist is only 6.35", so it is fills it out nicely for a dress watch. The simplicity of the dial is what makes the watch work in that case size. And the price was very competitive for something of Lange's level. However, I was still hesitant to shell out that kind of money for something I would not be able to wear even weekly.

I then decided that the JLC steel watches would offer me the best bang for buck, even though I would have to compromise on some of my ideal features. I was thinking the iconic Reverso Duo would be the one. It's like having 2 watches in one, and it is a manual wind. However, because my wrist is on the thin side, with very sharp angles (especially my ulnar knot), it somehow looked odd on me. My wife on the other hand, has the Reverso Duetto, and it works better on her because her wrist has "softer" edges. I then looked at the MUT watches, especially the MUT moon. Very clean looking design, with a display caseback. As of last week, I narrowed it down to that watch.

After making some calls, I went to an out of state AD since he offered a good price for it, and was willing to let me apply an old Tag Heuer automatic I had as a trade in. Even though the Tag isn't worth much, he was one of the only dealers who was willing to give me something for it. I go in with my family and try it on. I saw their ALS collection, and see the Saxonia thin in rose gold. I decide what the hell, can't hurt to try it on once more. I do, and the difference in how the Saxonia sang to me was almost palpable. Even the look on my wife's face was undeniable. I was still hesitant to pay the difference, but we decided it's better to get something I'll be happy with in the long run. I have made too many purchases that were compromises in the past, only to end up wishing I had spent a little more for what I really wanted. With her blessing, I went for the Saxonia Thin 37mm. I was really torn between the brown or black strap. The sales associate was kind enough to include both straps, and to ship it to me with the black strap attached.

Today, I received it in the mail. What a beauty. I finally have a piece that has all the characteristics I wanted in a dress watch. I'm not a great photographer, but here are some pics.









Wrist shot at the AD with the brown strap...


The small collection between my wife and I...

[tyler1980]

congrats, looks great

[tryptobphan]

That's a heck of a watch. I'm still enjoying mine from a week ago. I'm hoping to do a write up after a few months of daily wear. Are you going to use it only for special occasions?

Like your other thread, it looks really good on your wrist. I actually find that the watch on brown leather strap looks even better, makes the watch more "warm" and friendly. That picture of it on your wrist looks great on the brown strap for this very reason.

[scarlet knight]

Very attractive!

[ap1]

Congrats - looks great on u

[acaixguard]

Thanks everyone! Will report back after wearing it over the next few months. I will use it whenever the rest of my outfit and the occasion itself is appropriate. I probably won't wear it a lot in the summer, as I want to avoid excessive sweat on the leather straps. And obviously, I won't use it for any type of active wear. Anytime I am dressed business casual and up, then it's on!

Regarding the leather straps, are there any recommended products that should be used to keep the leather well conditioned? Such as Leather Honey, etc?

Originally Posted by tryptobphan

Like your other thread, it looks really good on your wrist. I actually find that the watch on brown leather strap looks even better, makes the watch more "warm" and friendly. That picture of it on your wrist looks great on the brown strap for this very reason.

I completely agree that the brown strap adds more warmth to the watch. The main issue for me is, I will wear a suit every so often, and when I do, it's always with a black belt and shoes, and I'm not likely going to be going to an AD to swap straps very often. Therefore, I have to go with the one that is safest to use for all occasions. What is a worse clash...wearing a black watch strap with brown shoes/belt, or a brown strap with black shoes/belt?

[avilhena]

Congrats! Love this one!!

[Peterandwatches]

Smart move. I think we may be of one mind - I have always been eyeing the MUT and Reverso, and you get fantastic value there. They are gorgeous, but then I look at the ALS and FPJs of the world.

I decided a while ago, if I ever get to add a piece, I will try to really stretch for it. If that day does come, it will be for a top tier piece like yours. Enjoy - you've made a fantastic choice.

[alpharulez]

nail biter of a journey as I was reading through

Have fun!


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[Lime]

Great colection

[Soleless Shoes]

Congrats, wonderful choice for a dress watch!

[acaixguard]

One more wrist shot with the black strap on...

[mps354]

Excellent choice!

[c41006]

Congrats!!

[Andad]

Very, very nice.

[DoraTheExplorerII]

Congrats! I was glad to see you didn't settle in the end although I'm sure the other watches would be enjoyable.

What did you think about the other big three? (PP, AP, VC) Did you get a chance to look at their dress watches before going for the ALS?

[jenedla]

Congratulations on your watch. I looks fantastic on you! When I eventually find myself seriously in the market for a dress watch, ALS will almost certainly be my choice. I have been fascinated by their watches since the first time I saw one years ago. Wear it in good health!

[CoveWatch]

Great watch! Congrats

[tryptobphan]

Originally Posted by acaixguard

One more wrist shot with the black strap on...

That looks good. Darn good.

Originally Posted by acaixguard

I completely agree that the brown strap adds more warmth to the watch. The main issue for me is, I will wear a suit every so often, and when I do, it's always with a black belt and shoes, and I'm not likely going to be going to an AD to swap straps very often. Therefore, I have to go with the one that is safest to use for all occasions. What is a worse clash...wearing a black watch strap with brown shoes/belt, or a brown strap with black shoes/belt?

I am actually in the completely opposite situation as you. I bought the White Gold Saxonia Thin with a black strap. However, my normal attire is very casual since I'm in California and all that. I wear brown dress shoes every day and the ones I have are lighter and easier to wear than my black dress shoes. So I bought brown straps recently since I'll be wearing those brown dress shoes more often. But the White Gold Saxonia Thin looks like the metaphysical archetype of the formal dress watch on a black strap.

To answer your question, I think it's weird to have a brown strap while wearing black belt and shoes, but equally as weird as a black strap while wearing brown belt and shoes.

Also, if you haven't noticed how well finished the watch is, you should check something out. I don't know if you've done it yet, but if you turn the watch with its caseback facing up so you can see the movement in a lit room, slowly cover up the watch with your hand, you'll notice that every edge of the movement will reflect light back and you can see the edges of the screw holes, plate edge, all the teeth on the winding/ratchet wheels, etc. If you have a Nomos or another similar watch, you can do that same thing but you'll realize the edges don't reflect light back. The Glashutte stripes on the Nomos don't reflect light in the same way the Saxonia's Glashutte stripes do. It's really cool to see how well finished it is in different light settings and environments. Note that I absolutely love my Nomos as well, but it's just interesting to see the differences.

[acaixguard]

Thanks again everyone for the kind words!

Regarding my choice of ALS over AP/PP/VC, it wasn't an easy one. Most people, including myself, would love to have a PP. For years, I fancied the 5227. But the price of it is too far out of question, even for a pre-owned one in any condition I would accept. Also, over time, my preferences have evolved towards an even simpler watch with no date. Since it's not a watch I would wear daily or even weekly, I don't want to have to set the date everytime I wear it. The simpler and smaller 5119 just never quite did it for me. It's a classic for sure, but I don't love the hobnail bezel. Within AP, I actually do like the Jules Audemars dress watches, but they are also expensive. Also, on the extra-thin one that has no date, I don't like how the case is white gold, but the dial markers are pink gold. The Millenary series can be interesting, but not really the shape I want for a traditional dress watch. As for VC, I like the Patrimony series, but they were a bit large on me for a dress watch. The simpler one may be obtainable from the right AD, and even possibly pre-owned, but it has a solid caseback, so that was an automatic disqualifier. I could compromise on a few things such as a date function or even a manual vs automatic movement, but having a display caseback is an absolute must.

In the end, I came to really like the overall designs and workmanship of ALS. When they made the Saxonia Thin in 37mm, not only was it the sweet spot for a dress watch (especially for those with smaller wrists), but the price was where it should be, albeit still not cheap. The little details of the watch, such as the engraved balance cock, the shimmer of the 3/4 plate, the transition of the brushed sides to polished metal elsewhere, and other things drew me to this piece.

No doubt the JLC would have been a solid choice too. I just felt the MUT Moon looked a little "dull" on my wrist in comparison to the Saxonia. Plus having a moonphase and date may be too laborious for me when I do take it out. I know some don't bother setting them, but for some reason, I can't allow myself to wear a watch with any incorrect settings. Plus, if I went with the MUT Moon, I will still desire a watch someday made with a precious metal, and also want a manual wind movement for the collection since I have automatics already. And if I got the Reverso, again, I would still desire a precious metal, and also want a watch with a display caseback. The Saxonia just happened to check all the boxes for me somehow.

[acaixguard]

Originally Posted by tryptobphan

Also, if you haven't noticed how well finished the watch is, you should check something out. I don't know if you've done it yet, but if you turn the watch with its caseback facing up so you can see the movement in a lit room, slowly cover up the watch with your hand, you'll notice that every edge of the movement will reflect light back and you can see the edges of the screw holes, plate edge, all the teeth on the winding/ratchet wheels, etc. If you have a Nomos or another similar watch, you can do that same thing but you'll realize the edges don't reflect light back. The Glashutte stripes on the Nomos don't reflect light in the same way the Saxonia's Glashutte stripes do. It's really cool to see how well finished it is in different light settings and environments. Note that I absolutely love my Nomos as well, but it's just interesting to see the differences.

I did notice that, and tried it again just now. It is pretty amazing the level of finishing that Lange puts their watches through. I have to admit that's partly what made me go for the Saxonia. Even on their entry level piece, the little details are not overlooked. I feel like no other maker (save for the custom 1-2 man shops) are doing this level of movement finishing...not even PP.

[Shiny1]

Simple and elegant

[tryptobphan]

Originally Posted by acaixguard

I did notice that, and tried it again just now. It is pretty amazing the level of finishing that Lange puts their watches through. I have to admit that's partly what made me go for the Saxonia. Even on their entry level piece, the little details are not overlooked. I feel like no other maker (save for the custom 1-2 man shops) are doing this level of movement finishing...not even PP.

It's funny you mentioned the Patek Philippe 5119 in your last post and again here. I was at the AD a few months back when checking out these watches. I was considering the Patek Philippe 5119R, A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Thin 40mm vs 37mm, and possibly the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 38mm.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle was out since there was no boutique or authorized dealer close enough to me to try on the watch. This is unfortunate because I actually love their dress watches, at least from pictures online.

The Patek Philippe 5119R drew me in because of the hobnail bezel and their reputation as one of the "best" watchmakers in the world. At first, I thought I'd love their movement, but dislike the hobnail bezel since it looks so old.

The A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Thin drew me in because of the history of A. Lange & Sohne, not the watch itself. When I finally saw the watch in person, I really liked how simple it was, but the details really stood out like you mentioned. Seeing the finishing level of each component was really eye opening, especially when I saw the Patek Philippe 5119R immediately afterwards. I should have tried on the 5119R first, because seeing it after the Saxonia definitely made the 5119R 215 movement seem duller and less colorful in comparison to the Saxonia L093.1 movement. Surprisingly, I ended up loving the Patek Philippe 5119R hobnail bezel on my wrist so that's still on the list for someday... but I'll have to get my other half to agree to it as well. She was more impressed with the A. Lange & Sohne movements, so I'll have to do more convincing if I want a Patek Philippe in the future because I don't think,"It's because it's a Patek," will go well with her.

Again, congrats on the watch. Wear it in good health. I'm wearing mine today at work and I'm in totally casual attire at the desk. I love it.

[jh8cw]

Congrats! It is a beautiful watch, which complements your watch collection well! I don't think you require a daily driver type watch with the 14060 at all; the A. Lange Saxonia fits nicely into the dress watch role!

PS. Would recommend watching the 3 on 3 Hodinkee episode on manual dress watches under 20K if you haven't done so already!

[acaixguard]

Thanks, that's actually the 116600 SD4K...but yeah, same idea. That's what I use as my daily wearer, aside from activities such as going to the gym, riding my bicycle, or for work (I'm an ER nurse). And yeah, that Hodinkee video was worth watching.

And tryptobphan, I totally understand why the desire to get into the PP brand is still there. Like Rolex, there is something to be said about owning a PP. It's still on my radar in the distant future. I was concerned about ALS not holding value as well as PP, and it is a legit concern, since used ALS pieces typically go for well under MSRP. However, I feel like the Saxonia isn't too bad. Since it's less expensive than other ALS pieces, it appears to depreciate less. I see pre-owned Saxonia 37's in excellent condition selling for not much lower than what I paid.

[tryptobphan]

Originally Posted by jh8cw

Congrats! It is a beautiful watch, which complements your watch collection well! I don't think you require a daily driver type watch with the 14060 at all; the A. Lange Saxonia fits nicely into the dress watch role!

PS. Would recommend watching the 3 on 3 Hodinkee episode on manual dress watches under 20K if you haven't done so already!

That’s a great episode. That’s the reason why I looked into Vacheron Constantin watches. Highly recommended.

Originally Posted by acaixguard

And tryptobphan, I totally understand why the desire to get into the PP brand is still there. Like Rolex, there is something to be said about owning a PP. It's still on my radar in the distant future. I was concerned about ALS not holding value as well as PP, and it is a legit concern, since used ALS pieces typically go for well under MSRP. However, I feel like the Saxonia isn't too bad. Since it's less expensive than other ALS pieces, it appears to depreciate less. I see pre-owned Saxonia 37's in excellent condition selling for not much lower than what I paid.

Those are totally legit reasons for wanting a Rolex or Patek Philippe. Honestly though, I couldn't care less about the brand name of these watches or resale value of watches. I think it's mainly because I don't sell my watches, but I gift them instead. Also, unless it's a Rolex watch or specifically a Patek Philippe 5711/5712 or some Aquanaut models, all watches have terrible resale value so I just buy whatever I know I'll love wearing.

But something about that hobnail bezel is striking to me. It's just so unique. Similarly to how I love the baton indexes from the Saxonia, I love the hobnail bezel of the PP 5120/5119. The difference is that the Saxonia's baton indexes are more subtle while the 5120/5119's hobnail bezel is more extroverted. Again, this will come down to my other half if she's OK with me spending that much on a watch I think she knows I won't wear as often as the A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia, 1815, or even other watches I would rather have like the JLC Reverso, Omega Seamaster, Speedmasters, Rolex Explorer 1, Submariner, etc.

I think I just have a mental illness or an affliction to want more. The hunt is never over...

[Wahlberg]

Beautiful watch.

I would love to see it in person. Seeing it pictured, it looks a lot bigger than a 37mm watch. I would even say 40-42mm in your pictures. The dial does a lot.

[acaixguard]

Yeah, I care about resale value in the sense that it's comforting to know that I made good use of my purchases. My wife even told me though, that you can't always choose something based on resale alone. Sometimes life is about enjoying something. And she's right. I don't ever plan on selling my current watches, unless I encounter some major unfortunate circumstances. It is my hope to pass down my watches to my kids or future grandkids.

Definitely not an illness either! No sooner than 8 hours after receiving my watch, I was already looking up other watches, even though I know that I won't be making any new watch purchases anytime soon.

[DoraTheExplorerII]

Thanks a lot for your super detailed responses and sharing your thought processes! Very helpful. I am also in a very similar situation looking at dress watches from the big four. It's still early but I'm now thinking about the mid-size VC 1921 or the ALS 1815 u/d.

[tryptobphan]

Originally Posted by acaixguard

Yeah, I care about resale value in the sense that it's comforting to know that I made good use of my purchases. My wife even told me though, that you can't always choose something based on resale alone. Sometimes life is about enjoying something. And she's right. I don't ever plan on selling my current watches, unless I encounter some major unfortunate circumstances. It is my hope to pass down my watches to my kids or future grandkids.

Definitely not an illness either! No sooner than 8 hours after receiving my watch, I was already looking up other watches, even though I know that I won't be making any new watch purchases anytime soon.

I totally know what you mean about being comforted with the knowledge we've made good purchases whatever they may be. I think your wife is also very much correct (isn't she always correct, too?). It's why I don't mind the resale value as much since I hope to gift these someday, if anything.

Also, the very fact you started looking at more watches immediately after getting a nice one that costs more than most Rolexes and Omegas probably means you have the same affliction as me. It's nice to aim for nice things, I suppose.