1986 168000 Submariner with a Tiffany & Co. Dial

[jd0lzz]

Hello Rolex Folks,

I actually joined rolexfoums about two years ago after my father generously gave me his 1986 168000 Submariner with Tiffany & Co. Dial (Purchased new from Tiffany's in November of 1987). Not knowing anything about Rolex watches, aside from their name and reputation, I decided to try to find out as much as I could about this watch. This is what I have learned. The double branding makes it more valuable to a collector. It being a 168000 rather than a 16800 illustrates the fact that the Stainless Steel used for the case was changed from grade 316 to grade 904. I have heard rumor that some of the 168000 and some of the 16800 models were prone to "spider cracking" on the dial due to a bad paint mixture. The watch that I have also has fallen victim to the "spider cracking" (although it is very subtle - actually looks kind of cool). So long story short, I have a double branded watch with oddball SS with an original "spider cracked" dial that could possibly be worth a fair amount of money. It would be nice to know its value even though I am not looking to sell this watch. It has a great deal of value to me on it's own. More importantly, I need to get it serviced. I can safely say that my father never had the watch serviced. With the exception of one lug pin, I know that the watch is 100% original, and I would like to keep it that way. Can anybody make some recommendations as to who should service this watch. I just want a service (lube, gaskets, etc...), that is it. I have heard that if I send it to Rolex, they might change the dial, hands, etc.... on me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. (I have heard good things about Bob Ridley in Texas)

[Nicko]

Originally Posted by jd0lzz

Hello Rolex Folks,

I actually joined rolexfoums about two years ago after my father generously gave me his 1986 168000 Submariner with Tiffany & Co. Dial (Purchased new from Tiffany's in November of 1987). Not knowing anything about Rolex watches, aside from their name and reputation, I decided to try to find out as much as I could about this watch. This is what I have learned. The double branding makes it more valuable to a collector. It being a 168000 rather than a 16800 illustrates the fact that the Stainless Steel used for the case was changed from grade 316 to grade 904. I have heard rumor that some of the 168000 and some of the 16800 models were prone to "spider cracking" on the dial due to a bad paint mixture. The watch that I have also has fallen victim to the "spider cracking" (although it is very subtle - actually looks kind of cool). So long story short, I have a double branded watch with oddball SS with an original "spider cracked" dial that could possibly be worth a fair amount of money. It would be nice to know its value even though I am not looking to sell this watch. It has a great deal of value to me on it's own. More importantly, I need to get it serviced. I can safely say that my father never had the watch serviced. With the exception of one lug pin, I know that the watch is 100% original, and I would like to keep it that way. Can anybody make some recommendations as to who should service this watch. I just want a service (lube, gaskets, etc...), that is it. I have heard that if I send it to Rolex, they might change the dial, hands, etc.... on me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. (I have heard good things about Bob Ridley in Texas)

Hello, nice piece...Do you have any better pics of the watch?

[Rikki]

I have worked on at least a 1/2 dozen of the 168000 with crazed dial. I noticed your sweep second hand is pretty corroded but if you want to keep it that way no problem. Send it down I will take good care of it. If you say it hasn't been serviced since 1986 it's gonna need some parts for sure besides gaskets and detail. So if you want send it on down for and estimate. I have a 100% positive feedback on 3 forums. Rikki

[Balboa]

Great watch! Did your father keep the original paperwork and Tiffany box? We usually did not think about such things in the past, but now it has become common and very important. Who knew?

Definitely have your watch serviced, but keep everything (except internal parts) original.

Mark

[jd0lzz]

@ Nicko - Here are some more pics - unfortunately, my camera is not the best of cameras, so I am not sure that these pics are any better than the original one I posted...

@ Rikki, - Thanks for the advise and offer, I will check out your site and get back to you...

@ Balboa - I have the original sales receipt and the original Tiffany's box, but I am still digging for other evidence of provenance....

[Renoir]

Fantastic watch!

As for having RSC service it, you can request just the movement service and not have any parts changed/replaced. The upside of having service done by Rolex is that having the service documentation, noting the Tiffany dial, will document that the dial is original to the watch.

Alternatively, I have had my vintage Sub fully restored by Bob Ridley and am extremely pleased.

Either way you can't go wrong, it's all up to what you're most comfortable with.

[Tools]

Great looking example..

About the only way to confirm a tiffany is with the sales receipt, so that is the main piece of paper you need for this watch.. the box too was unique to Tiffany watches............

168000's are not really high up on the collector list of must-haves, so it's not going to be in the same category as a red Sub, etc., but there are quite a few collectors who do like Tiffany dials..


With this one, you cannot change the dial or it just becomes another 168000..........

[jd0lzz]

Thanks for the responses guys. So is it a safe assumption that Rolex would not have any record of the dial being a "Tiffany Dial"? If that is the case, I am glad that I have the original receipt. I am curious of how the "double branding" process works. Did Tiffany's just buy a load of watches from Rolex, crack them open and put their name on the dial? I would have thought that Rolex would keep a record of what watches were shipped to Tiffany's. Just a curiosity, should know the answer.

[jd0lzz]

sorry for the typo "should anyone know the answer"

[heapstack]

Bob Ridley is great. Also try Nevada Time 775-841-1156.

[beerformeplz]

Nice watch and beautiful dogs.

[jd0lzz]

Thanks for the advice and compliments folks... @beerformeplz - My dogs are gloating from the compliment you gave them - Thanks... The only thing better than a Bullmastiff is two!!! This is the best I can do for a beer for you....

[greekbum]

If that were my watch I would either send it to RSC and ask that they dont change the dial and hands and service the movement and a light polish if it needs it or a watchmaker with a Rolex parts account that you trust.

[wantonebad]

I have yet to hear a bad thing about Rikki or Bob Ridley, can't go wrong with either one, I however would be leery of the RSC. Not because they would do poor service but they view all watches as theirs and if somethng isn't right with the watch they may refuse service or even worse.

[Goiguidoc]

I just bought a Tiffany 168000 in Geneva yesterday. It was serviced by RSC in 2010. According to RSC and the serial number, the watch was sold in the US, which is a good start. Also, if RSC services the watch, it is a good sign that the watch including the dial are original. I would have your watch serviced with RSC.

[johnkszabo]

Beautiful watch!