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Old 13 April 2011, 03:22 AM   #61
SoftwareDrone
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I'm definitely going to do this as soon as I can figure out how to get around the fact that I have shiny gold non-brushed pieces in the center of each of my links (two tone blue submariner/oyster).

Thank you!
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Old 8 November 2011, 09:52 PM   #62
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Great post Larry, thanks for the information.
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Old 4 March 2012, 12:56 AM   #63
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Nice info, though you could include the polishing of the polished surface
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Old 12 March 2012, 03:35 PM   #64
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Great infos. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 16 May 2012, 12:39 AM   #65
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Extremely helpful, thanks Larry!
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Old 17 May 2012, 09:40 PM   #66
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Thank you! Great post!
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Old 26 May 2012, 08:08 AM   #67
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whats the best tool to use for the band removal? bergeon 6111?

i own the Submariner Date in two tone model 116613LN

also any tips on buffing out scratches from the middle gold portion of the two-tone sub?
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Old 22 September 2012, 03:48 PM   #68
beginning
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Just wondering.... how would you take the bracelet off (without breaking anything), since the end links don't have cut-out and the case has no side holes...?
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Old 22 September 2012, 08:49 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beginning View Post
Just wondering.... how would you take the bracelet off (without breaking anything), since the end links don't have cut-out and the case has no side holes...?
Are you sure it is a genuine Rolex ?
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Old 27 October 2012, 12:54 AM   #70
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bracelet touch up

great thread. thanks for the advice
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Old 27 October 2012, 04:06 AM   #71
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What should be applied on the Scotch Brite pad for the touch up? Or just dry stroke it?
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Old 25 June 2013, 12:38 PM   #72
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I have done it before using the Dry-Stoke Method. I think we all have...
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Old 2 February 2014, 06:00 PM   #73
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This should be a sticky. Very useful stuff.
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Old 3 February 2014, 06:10 AM   #74
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Great post! It's amazing how well that basic Green Scotchbrite pad does at making that bracelet look pretty much brand new.
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Old 3 February 2014, 03:36 PM   #75
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Great post, I've had success with scotch bright pads but never knew about the brush pens. Thanks!
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Old 15 February 2014, 04:47 PM   #76
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Larry you make it seem so simple to remove the bracelet on a no hole lug! Man I struggle trying to remove mine! I still have not been successful removing any bracelet from a no hole lug! That pinch style the pin always snaps back in when I go to the other side. Frustrating to say the least! One day I hope to be successful.
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Old 25 February 2014, 02:35 PM   #77
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thanks for the SCOTCH-Brite tip... its very easy and effective :)
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Old 25 February 2014, 02:55 PM   #78
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This is one of the first threads I read when I joined several years ago. I'm happy that it was bumped up for those that haven't read it. Thanks, Larry.
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Old 1 September 2014, 08:44 PM   #79
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Is it ok to use on the "front" side of the lugs as well? My clumsy fingers ended causing some scratches while I was trying to change to nato even though mine has lug holes! Sweat...
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Old 1 September 2014, 09:17 PM   #80
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Bracelet Removal, Touch-up, Replacement..

The answer is a qualified yes...

The top of the lugs are a tricky item (the "front" side in your question). So more experience is better when dealing with lugs.

On the models that have a brushed finish, you will note that the grain runs at an angle. It is not a straight downward direction. Compounding that issue is the close proximity of the bezel that could be affected if you slip. So taping off the bezel is very important. Taping is also an issue where the top of the lug meets the bevel for the side of the lug that is polished.

You will do best by using the thin edge of the Scotchbrite pad so you can approximate the angle faithfully.

But if you mess up the bezel or the polished side of the lug, then you'll find yourself Googling "Cap Cod Polishing Cloth" and searching TRF for threads about polishing.

Because the lugs demand the most experience, and even an average watchmaker can get it wrong, Rolex even has special classes on brushing/polishing.

For me, I'll stick to the bracelet links and clasps and leave the tricky stuff to my watchmaker.
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Old 2 September 2014, 12:52 AM   #81
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77T, thks for the wonderful advice and experiences you shared!
I better just leave it alone!
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Old 7 February 2015, 08:52 AM   #82
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Long overdue thanks Larry; due to your excellent tutorial have now changed out to rubberB and successfully changed back to bracelet on my 16570; reading your instructions prior to getting the watch actually helped plan out which watch and which rubber strap.

Thanks again!

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Old 19 February 2015, 04:48 AM   #83
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thank you for the nice pictures, very informative:)
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Old 25 April 2015, 12:10 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tools View Post
Any no holes case should have these same spring bars. Some may not have the flanges on them, but they should be double shouldered..

A Sub, or many pre 2001 cases may have "through hole lugs" cases (I believe this is what you meant). These have springbars that only have a single pivot at each end. (no shoulders). Thisetype of springbars is removed by using the shown "pin punch" end of the tool and, using the same holding technique, the spring-bars are compressed by pushing through the lug holes. The bracelet also may not have the slot in the back either since it is not necessary .........

Here are the three type of spring bars you will encounter. Through hole case, no hole case 2mm, and no hole case 1.8mm:
Great thread. Tools, I have a 1988 Datejust with a "through-hole lug" case. I tried to fit a pair of shoulderless lug bars (made for a sub with also a through-hole lug case). However, the shoulderless lug bars are too thick to fit through the OEM endlinks and the OEM bracelet. Are there shoulderless lug bars that are thinner than 2mm, made specifically for the Jubilee bracelet for the Datejust (with lug holes)?

Thanks in advance for any insight.
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Old 26 May 2015, 06:28 AM   #85
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Thought I'd bring this back up as it really helped me after struggling for hours!!
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Old 31 May 2015, 10:12 PM   #86
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great and useful thread. came here to thank OP and used this to remove the bracelet with no issues at all.
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Old 1 June 2015, 01:33 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerband View Post
Great thread. Tools, I have a 1988 Datejust with a "through-hole lug" case. I tried to fit a pair of shoulderless lug bars (made for a sub with also a through-hole lug case). However, the shoulderless lug bars are too thick to fit through the OEM endlinks and the OEM bracelet. Are there shoulderless lug bars that are thinner than 2mm, made specifically for the Jubilee bracelet for the Datejust (with lug holes)?

Thanks in advance for any insight.
Yes, they are also made in 1.8mm for the Datejust and early Daytona
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Old 8 July 2015, 01:06 AM   #88
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Larry, it's amazing how frequently I've referenced this threat. It really stands the test of time. It wouldn't be bad to add the special bracelet removal tool that Rolex has or its Bergeon "equivalents" for making the job easier.
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Old 8 July 2015, 01:12 AM   #89
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Great review Larry. I'll be trying this out as soon as my new NATO strap arrives
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Old 10 July 2015, 08:49 AM   #90
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Great thread! Will the scotchbrite pads work on the clasp itself, or just on the links? (The clasp seems to be of softer metal, or at least it's more scratched up on my Series K GMT-II). Thanks...

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