Spring Bar Removal Tips

[Pay M3]

As I wait for my BLNR to come in I’ve decided I’ll do the sizing myself and was curious if anyone has any tips for me. What is the best tool to use? I’ll have my Tag Aquaracer that I will practice on first to make sure I get it down before operating on the Rolex.

[Carondelet]

With Rolex you are best served using a special tool as a normal spring bar tool will not work.

Bergeon 6825 - https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-68...tch-band-tool/
or
Bergeon 7825 - https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-78...-bar-tweezers/

There are cheaper alternatives, but I don't know much about them.

Lastly, for the screws in the links you'll need a special flathead screw driver. A standard precision flathead screwdriver is too thin and can badly mar the screws.
There's this: https://www.esslinger.com/horofix-sc...t-link-screws/

Or find a Rolex 2100 screwdriver if you can.

An AD should still be able to do it for you very quickly if you change your mind! So you always have that to fall back on.

[josephvman]

You need a 1.6mm screwdriver, preferably with a hollow-ground tip if you don't want to muck-up the screw heads on the bracelet. I would also use masking tape to tape around the screw heads while you're doing this, and a loupe or magnifier makes it much easier to safely guide the screwdriver into the slot. If the screw requires more than just very moderate force to break free I would suggest running the watch under hot water for a few minutes to soften the thread lock the factory applies and try again.

I would also put a very small drop of loctite on the screw threads (I use blue, some prefer something less strong) when you reassemble the bracelet.

You also want to size it with the EZ-link closed and preferably early in the day before your wrist tends to expand.

It's easy and a rite of passage in getting a new piece that I enjoy. Take your time and you won't have any issues, and you'll be proud of yourself when you're done!

[Carondelet]

Originally Posted by josephvman

You won't need a springbar tool to size the bracelet, as there is no reason to remove it for sizing. You need a 1.6mm screwdriver, preferably with a hollow-ground tip if you don't want to muck-up the screw heads on the bracelet. I would also use masking tape to tape around the screw heads while you're doing this, and a loupe or magnifier makes it much easier to safely guide the screwdriver into the slot. If the screw requires more than just very moderate force to break free I would suggest running the watch under hot water for a few minutes to soften the thread lock the factory applies and try again.

I would also put a very small drop of loctite on the screw threads (I use blue, some prefer something less strong) when you reassemble the bracelet.

You also want to size it with the EZ-link closed and preferably early in the day before your wrist tends to expand.

It's easy and a rite of passage in getting a new piece that I enjoy. Take your time and you won't have any issues, and you'll be proud of yourself when you're done!

Yes! Great advice! Ignore me and listen to this guy

[josephvman]

Actually I just realized that you might need a springbar tool if you need to move the micro-adjustment on the clasp! I'm lucky I can usually get a perfect fit without doing so. The Bergeon tools you referenced are perfect for the job!

Originally Posted by Carondelet

Yes! Great advice! Ignore me and listen to this guy

[Tony8959]

Originally Posted by josephvman

Actually I just realized that you might need a springbar tool if you need to move the micro-adjustment on the clasp! I'm lucky I can usually get a perfect fit without doing so. The Bergeon tools you referenced are perfect for the job!

I’ve actually been looking for something to move micro adjust would an Everest spring bar tool work or something similar? Do the plier type make it easier ?

[GreatScott]

Originally Posted by Tony8959

I’ve actually been looking for something to move micro adjust would an Everest spring bar tool work or something similar? Do the plier type make it easier ?

A push pin also works. Like the ones on a cork board. Seriously, I saw it done an hav now one it repeatedly. Just push it in the gap and the pin push’s out to be moved.

[Ced4jets]

This is great advice from both of you - thanks!

[josephvman]

I’m not familiar with the Everest tool, but I would go with the Bergeon tools suggested because I know they work.

[Tony8959]

Originally Posted by josephvman

I’m not familiar with the Everest tool, but I would go with the Bergeon tools suggested because I know they work.

This is it:
https://www.everestbands.com/collect...pring-bar-tool

Although the tweezers posted look much easier

[toxicavenger]

Originally Posted by Tony8959

This is it:
https://www.everestbands.com/collect...pring-bar-tool

Although the tweezers posted look much easier

The is actually the better set that they make. Proof you don't have to spend 75-100 to size a bracelet correctly.

https://www.everestbands.com/collect...pring-bar-tool

[BVLDARI]

Good screw driver suggestion. Do you know if this 1.7mm is the right size? Technically you need 1.6mm but all 1.6mm screw driver blades I have seen are two small.

[doboy007]

Originally Posted by BVLDARI

Good screw driver suggestion. Do you know if this 1.7mm is the right size? Technically you need 1.6mm but all 1.6mm screw driver blades I have seen are two small.

1.6 mm seems bit small, but works fine as long as it’s hollow ground and you apply heat to bracelet to loosen loctite. I recently used it to adjust my SkyD and it left no marks on the screw head.

[Andad]

1.7mm hollow ground is a better fit and don’t put the loctite on the screw head - put a tiny drop inside the female thread on the link.

[ozwatchguy]

I just recently purchased the Panerai 1.6mm screwdriver from eBay and it is absolutely perfect fit. Previously I was using the Bergeon 1.6mm which was not the best as it needed to be grounded down to fit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[handsfull]

A 1.7mm hollow ground head is ideal. A 1.8 or even a 2mm flat ground driver would also work if filed properly...just time consuming. The 2100 tool pic'd above is what you want, although tough to find without overpaying.

[inadeje]

Steel pointed tipped tweezers for springbars. Bought mine on ebay, $11. Work perfectly every time. When you first get them they must be splayed open to the lug size you require, a little pressure on the center or open to size and they stay that way. I have tried several but these are the best. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Niegeloh-Pr...-/273346889604

[Onikage]

Originally Posted by inadeje

Steel pointed tipped tweezers for springbars. Bought mine on ebay, $11. Work perfectly every time. When you first get them they must be splayed open to the lug size you require, a little pressure on the center or open to size and they stay that way. I have tried several but these are the best. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Niegeloh-Pr...-/273346889604

Interesting. I have some very similar that I'd never thought of using for that. They're useless for everything else. Do they just compress the springbars enough to be pushed out or do they have enough purchase to keep hold? Just trying to familiarise before putting sharpened steel near my watches.

[inadeje]

For bracelet screws, a 1.6 panerai screwdriver is what I use. DO NOT use Chisel shape/type screwdrivers.

[inadeje]

This for clasp pins but only on older rolex with visible pin head through clasp. For newer rolex with hidden clasp pins, use above tweezers. Bergeon Swiss Made 6767-F Watch Spring Bar Tool with fine pin and fork https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F323620118104

[Andad]

I would not use a single end spring bar tool or a pair of tweezers when there are proper tools available.
The spring bar should be compressed at both ends at the same time to prevent marking the case.
I would not use that Everest screwdriver unless you want to butcher the screw.
Check out the tip?

Quick pix of some of my tools.

And the tip of my bracelet screwdriver 1.7mm HG with 1,2, 1.4 and 1.8 extra tips.

[toxicavenger]

Originally Posted by directioneng

I would not use a single end spring bar tool or a pair of tweezers when there are proper tools available.
The spring bar should be compressed at both ends at the same time to prevent marking the case.
I would not use that Everest screwdriver unless you want to butcher the screw.
Check out the tip?

Quick pix of some of my tools.

And the tip of my bracelet screwdriver 1.7mm HG with 1,2, 1.4 and 1.8 extra tips.

Hahaha. Not exactly true. Tape is the only thing that will keep the case mark free. If you slip with any tool (yes even your precious tools) it can scratch the watch.

[Tony8959]

Originally Posted by directioneng

I would not use a single end spring bar tool or a pair of tweezers when there are proper tools available.
The spring bar should be compressed at both ends at the same time to prevent marking the case.
I would not use that Everest screwdriver unless you want to butcher the screw.
Check out the tip?

Quick pix of some of my tools.

And the tip of my bracelet screwdriver 1.7mm HG with 1,2, 1.4 and 1.8 extra tips.

Which tweezers are those and where did you order them?

[Andad]

Originally Posted by Tony8959

Which tweezers are those and where did you order them?

Hi Tony,

Bought one pair from Tempoking on the forum.

Nice transaction.

Have had the other pair for a long time and can’t remember where I got them from.

[Rocket_Man]

I like the Bergeron 'tweezer' tool as well. I like this site.. http://www.ofrei.com/page235.html

A few key tips....

- face the watch down on a microfiber cloth
- compress both sides of the spring bar and don't allow it to spring back until the springbar is completely out of the lugs. If you let them 'pop' out they can chip the insides of the lugs.
- move the watch head away from the bracelet, not the bracelet away from the watch head. Reverse the process to re-attach.
- a little heat on the bracelet screws will soften the lock tite and make the screw easier to remove, this can also reduce the chance of messing up the screw slot. Of course using the proper size screw driver as has already been mentioned.

[Tony8959]

Originally Posted by Rocket_Man

I like the Bergeron 'tweezer' tool as well. I like this site.. http://www.ofrei.com/page235.html

A few key tips....

- face the watch down on a microfiber cloth
- compress both sides of the spring bar and don't allow it to spring back until the springbar is completely out of the lugs. If you let them 'pop' out they can chip the insides of the lugs.
- move the watch head away from the bracelet, not the bracelet away from the watch head. Reverse the process to re-attach.
- a little heat on the bracelet screws will soften the lock tite and make the screw easier to remove, this can also reduce the chance of messing up the screw slot. Of course using the proper size screw driver as has already been mentioned.

Heating up bracelet screws is only if I’m removing links right ? Not the entire bracelet with tweezers on spring bar ?

[Peter99]

Originally Posted by directioneng

I would not use a single end spring bar tool or a pair of tweezers when there are proper tools available.
The spring bar should be compressed at both ends at the same time to prevent marking the case.
I would not use that Everest screwdriver unless you want to butcher the screw.
Check out the tip?

Quick pix of some of my tools.

And the tip of my bracelet screwdriver 1.7mm HG with 1,2, 1.4 and 1.8 extra tips.

I would not use the chrome screwdriver shown in the pic in this post on my Rolex watches.
The reason, it is not hollow ground to give a parallel face at the tip for accurately locating square on in the slot of the screwhead.
This type of tapered screwdriver tip in the pic, common on the majority of screwdrivers will just tend to turn out of the slot as it in line contact only with the edge of the slot.
It will also tend to damage the slot.
It is not the Rolex Ref 2100 screwdriver. The tip dimensions being 1.70mm x 0.38mm and truly hollow ground.

[Rashid.bk]

Originally Posted by directioneng

I would not use a single end spring bar tool or a pair of tweezers when there are proper tools available.
The spring bar should be compressed at both ends at the same time to prevent marking the case.
I would not use that Everest screwdriver unless you want to butcher the screw.
Check out the tip?

Quick pix of some of my tools.

Please listen to this guy or you're going to regret it. I went and bought a set of tools and it was worth it. If you're going to cut corners just take it to a watchmaker. I would not cut corners with this.
I also recommend a loop and a bracelet holder. Both can be had for about $10 bucks on amazon. I think it's a crucial point to put the loctite in the female end where the threads are, not the screw head because as you insert the screw it rubs loctite in the tube, then the bracelets sticks and takes weeks/months to clear out. I eventually removed it, cleaned and did it over. Use tape. Lessons learned.

A 1.6mm screw worked and fit perfectly on my 126660. I bought an oem Panerai screw driver from a site called panatime.com (below). Perfect match, just make sure it's hollow ground, a must for no slip turning.

Screwdriver 1.6 EXACT OEM Panatime Stainless Steel s11-Panscrew

I can say that after adjusting my bracelet and how careful I needed to be, I have a new respect for my watchmaker. He gets it done in like five minutes and I use to wonder in the past, why is he taking so long.....
Now I understand and 5-10 min isn't anything, took me the better part of a half hour the first time, probably because I didn't want to scratch anything. It's real easy to scrape and gouge a screw or the mirror polish sides, for me this was unacceptable, so take your time. I enjoyed it in the end and was a proud CW21 in my own mind.

[toxicavenger]

Originally Posted by Rashid.bk

A 1.6mm screw worked and fit perfectly on my 126660. I bought an oem Panerai screw driver from a site called panatime.com (below). Perfect match, just make sure it's hollow ground, a must for no slip turning.

Screwdriver 1.6 EXACT OEM Panatime Stainless Steel s11-Panscrew

Hold on, did you say to listen to directioneng and not cut corners and then you went and bought a screwdriver that is not a high quality tool and it is the wrong size??? Because the actual size is 1.7mm.

And the one Panatime sells is not a OEM Panerai version. It is a copy of it.

[Rashid.bk]

Originally Posted by Rashid.bk

Please listen to this guy or you're going to regret it. I went and bought a set of tools and it was worth it. If you're going to cut corners just take it to a watchmaker. I would not cut corners with this.
I also recommend a loop and a bracelet holder. Both can be had for about $10 bucks on amazon. I think it's a crucial point to put the loctite in the female end where the threads are, not the screw head because as you insert the screw it rubs loctite in the tube, then the bracelets sticks and takes weeks/months to clear out. I eventually removed it, cleaned and did it over. Use tape. Lessons learned.

A 1.6mm screw worked and fit perfectly on my 126660. I bought an oem Panerai screw driver from a site called panatime.com (below). Perfect match, just make sure it's hollow ground, a must for no slip turning.

Screwdriver 1.6 EXACT OEM Panatime Stainless Steel s11-Panscrew

I can say that after adjusting my bracelet and how careful I needed to be, I have a new respect for my watchmaker. He gets it done in like five minutes and I use to wonder in the past, why is he taking so long.....
Now I understand and 5-10 min isn't anything, took me the better part of a half hour the first time, probably because I didn't want to scratch anything. It's real easy to scrape and gouge a screw or the mirror polish sides, for me this was unacceptable, so take your time. I enjoyed it in the end and was a proud CW21 in my own mind.

Sent using Note 8