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Old 26 January 2023, 08:36 AM   #1
RustyDusty1
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Approximate cost to restore bracelet at Rolliworks

Hi,

I just acquired a 1967 Rolex Submariner 5512. The watch itself is in great shape. However structurally, the bracelet is in rough shape. I know at minimum the bars between the links all need to be replaced (some are bent). Also the middle (interior) links have had quite a bit of friction over the years that has worn quite a bit of the steel away. This makes me presume it will also need some laser welding to add metal back to the links to make them strong again.

Cosmetically, i have no interest in getting it polished, i want to keep it vintage looking. But i do want to make sure the bracelet is as strong as it can be since its a $25K watch and I don't want it ever falling off my wrist. I intend this to be my daily wear for the next several decades so its worth it to me to do it right

Assuming it needs new bars and laser welding, can anyone give me a ballpark idea of what it could cost? I'm ok with maybe $500, but if its closer to $ 1500, I would need to budget for that and I may just look into getting a new oyster bracelet instead.

Any feedback is appreciated, thanks!
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Old 26 January 2023, 10:19 AM   #2
Dan S
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I could tell you what I have paid. Or you could do what I have always done, which was simply send them photos and ask for an estimate.
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Old 26 January 2023, 11:00 AM   #3
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I think that you will be happy with an estimate compared to replacing the bracelet.

You are likely out of luck when it comes to refinishing. It is very unlikely that the repairs can be done without tool and work marks, which will need to be brushed and hammered out. Only doing that to the repaired areas will make for a messed up looking product.

I usually wear a 30 year old GMT Master. I would be embarrassed if it looked thrashed and not in good condition. It has some scratches and wear marks, but if I had bent links or springbars, I would have them repaired.
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Old 26 January 2023, 11:06 AM   #4
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Talk to Michael Hui at Rolliworks. He will ask for pics and then give you a quote. You will be around $1400 or so to rehab that bracelet. They do excellent work.
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Old 26 January 2023, 12:02 PM   #5
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You will be around $1400 or so to rehab that bracelet.
Interesting estimate. Not consistent with my recent experiences, but who knows, maybe Rolliworks has different prices for different customers. OP, this is why I suggested just contacting Michael yourself. You really have no idea whether the responses you get here are accurate, or which you should believe. To you, we are all just strangers on the internet.

Anyway, welcome to the forum, and perhaps someday you can post some photos of your watch.
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Old 26 January 2023, 12:22 PM   #6
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Talk to Michael Hui at Rolliworks. He will ask for pics and then give you a quote. You will be around $1400 or so to rehab that bracelet. They do excellent work.
Curious what was done for that price. He worked on a 7206 rivet bracelet of mine, including repairing two links, as well as tightening-up the stretch, and a very, very light polish for less than half that. It was about two years, so maybe prices have risen.
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Old 26 January 2023, 12:32 PM   #7
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He quoted me $3300 to tighten a platinum President bracelet.
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Old 26 January 2023, 01:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Talk to Michael Hui at Rolliworks. He will ask for pics and then give you a quote. You will be around $1400 or so to rehab that bracelet. They do excellent work.
I am surprised at the cost too. Was it a TT bracelet or solid gold?
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Old 26 January 2023, 02:06 PM   #9
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You might consider just getting a new oyster if you'll be wearing this daily. I always found 93150 to be more comfortable and secure than 9315.
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Old 26 January 2023, 02:51 PM   #10
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$1400 is what a gold bracelet will cost to be done. I had a 93150 rebuilt a couple years back and it was just over $400
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Old 27 January 2023, 12:28 AM   #11
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You might consider just getting a new oyster if you'll be wearing this daily. I always found 93150 to be more comfortable and secure than 9315.
I agree with this sentiment unless you really love the 9315 feel. Buying a 93150 you can use the same end pieces you have now as well so cost will be reasonable.
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Old 27 January 2023, 06:17 AM   #12
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Interesting estimate. Not consistent with my recent experiences, but who knows, maybe Rolliworks has different prices for different customers. OP, this is why I suggested just contacting Michael yourself. You really have no idea whether the responses you get here are accurate, or which you should believe. To you, we are all just strangers on the internet.

Anyway, welcome to the forum, and perhaps someday you can post some photos of your watch.
Sorry, i forgot to add photos of the actual watch face! Here you go. Thanks for the advice btw
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Old 27 January 2023, 06:44 AM   #13
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Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll be sure to send and email to Michael at Rolliworks with photos to get an estimate. I'm also looking into getting a new 93150 with new end-links. Does anyone know what a fair price is for that? Someone in the Rolex community told me to expect about $2000 for a new bracelet with end-links.

And since i forgot to add the best part, photos of the actual watch, here are a few.
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Old 3 February 2023, 09:52 PM   #14
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Great looking watch, but if you are looking for period correct accuracy, the insert is not correct for the watch. It appears that it may have been modified with an incorrect pearl/pip from a sapphire insert as that pearl is not correct for a 5512. In fact, it looks like it's cracked in half at the pear spot. Other than that, the dial and case look killer..
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Old 4 February 2023, 04:40 AM   #15
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You may be able to get a 93150 directly from an AD and it might be less than you expect. Check it out and let us know.
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Old 4 February 2023, 07:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyDusty1 View Post
Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll be sure to send and email to Michael at Rolliworks with photos to get an estimate. I'm also looking into getting a new 93150 with new end-links. Does anyone know what a fair price is for that? Someone in the Rolex community told me to expect about $2000 for a new bracelet with end-links.

. . .
If you are going for new, get it from Rolex RSC or an AD. It will be much less than the typical Internet scalpers.
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Old 4 February 2023, 05:04 PM   #17
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i like the rivets.
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Old 5 February 2023, 04:49 AM   #18
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I don't believe they laser weld the center links to add any metal, they just cut new links from sheet metal and fold it accordingly.
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Old 5 February 2023, 05:38 AM   #19
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I don't believe they laser weld the center links to add any metal, they just cut new links from sheet metal and fold it accordingly.
Yes, Michael can certainly fabricate sections in that way.
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Old 5 February 2023, 08:35 AM   #20
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you may be able to get a 93150 directly from an ad and it might be less than you expect. Check it out and let us know.

+1
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Old 5 February 2023, 09:53 AM   #21
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I must be missing something. Rolliworks is in Miami and the OP is in Miami. Why not stop by with the watch and bracelet for an in-person estimate?
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Old 5 February 2023, 10:19 AM   #22
Dan S
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I must be missing something. Rolliworks is in Miami and the OP is in Miami. Why not stop by with the watch and bracelet for an in-person estimate?
Exactly. You're not missing anything.

We are living in an internet-centric virtual world these days.
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Old 5 February 2023, 10:49 AM   #23
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RSC still sells 93150s It was not in stock when I requested one for my 1680 it took about 6 weeks to order from Geneva $1250. Maybe ADs can order as well?
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Old 5 February 2023, 08:20 PM   #24
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I don't believe they laser weld the center links to add any metal, they just cut new links from sheet metal and fold it accordingly.
"sheet metal" I'll pass
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Old 6 February 2023, 12:17 AM   #25
Dan S
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"sheet metal" I'll pass
Like folded-link bracelets, these rivet bracelets are also basically sheet metal and pins. So IMO, it makes perfect sense to repair them with sheet metal and pins.
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Old 6 February 2023, 02:56 AM   #26
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"sheet metal" I'll pass
Oh dear...
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