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13 February 2019, 06:44 PM | #1 |
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Best luxury dress watch under 15k (new/used)?
I couldn't find a discussion thread for this particular price range here, so hopefully this is welcome.
15,000 bucks is a LOT of money -- but also seems like something of a "value" price point in the high end, to the degree you can talk about any such thing. At least you have plenty of choices of not-so-complicated, but nevertheless beautifully finished watches from the top watchmakers. What should be the top contenders? Right now I'm thinking: Lange 1815 38.5mm used Lange 1815 up/down with the older 36mm case Lange Saxonia Thin new or used Saxonia with small seconds Patek Calatrava 5119 or 5196 used JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon in gold Breguet Classique with enamel or guilloché dial? Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Then you have the off-beat picks, like picking up a vintage perpetual from AP. Seems like you're asking for trouble come servicing time though. For the best finishing, it seems simple enough. You go with the Lange, done. But finishing isn't everything. In the flesh I was particularly impressed with the beauty of Breguet's dials, and that goes for both the enamel and guilloché offerings. The JLC Moon is also very nice, particularly in rose gold. But it may be slightly overpriced considering your top end options. What else should be considered? And what dress watch would you personally buy for 15k? |
13 February 2019, 10:19 PM | #2 |
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I think that price point is very interesting since you are willing to go used.
There are so many models to choose from, I would have a tough time making a complete list. Just a few more Moser: Pretty much every simple 3 hand model IWC: loads of dress models in Gold, maybe an annual calendar JLC: So many models that are trim and Gold aside from the master ultra thin moon Breguet: a few other lines aside from the Classique Vacheron: Traditionalle, 1942 and many others AP: Jules Audemars, Edward Piguet Cartier: Too many to list GO: lots of models Parmigiani Lange and Hyne Zenith Rolex Cellini Blancpain Pretty much every major brand has a few dress models that have been produced recently that can be had for around that price that I’d be glad to own. At the moment I don’t own any dress watches at that price point, just higher priced and substantially less. Every watch you listed is a nice watch, and as you said not everything is about finishing, I think it’s just personal taste. |
13 February 2019, 11:10 PM | #3 |
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Patek 5119j and JLC Reverso Duo
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14 February 2019, 01:19 AM | #4 |
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I’d do the vc 38 manual from the hodinkee best dresswstches under 20k. That was a beautiful watch. Used are great values
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14 February 2019, 01:29 AM | #5 |
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Breguet classique, with a guilloche and retrograde seconds. As you’ve stated, the dial and finishing are world class.
I also quite like the Blancpain Villarete Quantième. Very underrated piece with fantastic finishing, plus a moon phase and day/date/month complication.
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14 February 2019, 03:06 AM | #6 |
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My answer to the question has been a small and completely under the radar 3998P Calatrava which I continue to like a lot.
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14 February 2019, 04:59 AM | #7 |
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Love the Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moons, lesser known but definitely worth a look.
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14 February 2019, 05:47 AM | #9 |
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Lange 1815 38.5mm. Superb 3 hand watch. Not much can touch it for the price.
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14 February 2019, 09:57 AM | #10 |
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Lange is nice but doesn't move me. I smile every single time I look down at my Breguet classiques. For example, the retrograde seconds is lovely. The moonphase with power reserve and grand feu is completely charming to wear.
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14 February 2019, 01:27 PM | #11 |
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I think the VC May present the best value. They go for steep discounts, and who knows- maybe the brand won’t be so soft one day.
They have a historically fantastic reputation. If you bet on them regaining their magic in the next 10-15 years, it could pay off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
14 February 2019, 02:25 PM | #12 | |
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14 February 2019, 06:08 PM | #13 | |
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At least that's what I felt when trying the Saxonia Thin. I now think that watch isn't for me -- I think it has to be a 1815 if going Lange, which I feel injects some personality into it. It's also slightly less formal. That "beautiful, but lacks feel/personality" is something that prevents me from digging the VC Patrimony too. Though I must add, I have not actually tried it on yet. Here's the thing: I don't actually wear suits. My work doesn't requires it! I actually hate suits. I regularly wear jeans. Yet I'm lusting after a high end dress watch in gold. Am I crazy? To make it even worse, I'm digging the super-formal Patek 5119 design. It just feels romantic. Speaking of romantic, too bad the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu has shot up in the used market. That watch is stunning and seems versatile too. My top contenters right now are probably the Patek 5119 or the 1815 in 36mm or 38,5mm, with the latter being the very top contenter. I should probably start digging into Moser and other smaller brands. |
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14 February 2019, 10:26 PM | #14 |
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Yellow gold Lange 1. A little more interesting than the 1815 in my opinion, and an iconic watch. They are out there at this price, I've stupidly passed on enough of them to know!
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14 February 2019, 10:46 PM | #15 |
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I'd highly recommend trying Moser, especially the endeavour center seconds collection.
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15 February 2019, 12:54 AM | #16 |
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If you can stretch that budget a little, I would go with Lange 1815 Up/down preown, which has a more interesting dial than the 1815 time only. The latter uses a non-Lange manufactured balance spring and lacks the free sprung balance.
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17 February 2019, 01:55 AM | #17 |
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The up/down is nice but so far I haven’t seen them close to 15k.
Anybody have experience with vintage perpetuals/calendars? The AP Quantieme looks interessting, can’t believe I can get a Holy Trinity perpetual calendar in gold under 10k. They’re not even that vintage being from the 90s. |
17 February 2019, 02:05 AM | #18 |
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There was a time when you could throw a chrono blue in the mix but those days are over lol
I personally like the VC patrimony small seconds or Lange 1815. I also like the patek 5196G even though it is nowhere near as good a value.
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17 February 2019, 09:25 AM | #19 |
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The dress watch I'd buy with $15k would the Breguet Classique 7147 grand fue. Not on your list but something to consider would be a Piaget Altiplano.
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18 February 2019, 03:41 AM | #20 |
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Well, the term "dress watch" can be open to interpretation, but I find this VC Overseas with the blue dial to be absolutely stunning, and it looks great with a suit or jeans. And yes, it fits under a cuff.
Very, very underrated watch, and can be bought on the secondary market in the range of $15K (maybe a little more.) Retail is close to $21K. The quality, feel, attention to detail, three included straps, and that blue lacquer dial with a simple design that screams 1960s ... it's just beautiful. The outer blue ring on the dial goes turquoise when light hits it the right way. Hard to capture its full beauty in photos. Nothing else like it on the market, not with this kind of design and luxury feel. |
18 February 2019, 01:58 PM | #21 |
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Like the VC Overseas, but would call it a sports watch, not a dress watch. Others may disagree.
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18 February 2019, 07:01 PM | #22 |
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The VC Overseas unfortunately doesn't do much for me. Years ago I "wanted" to like it but in the end I realized I dislike the bezel and bracelet design and I also don't like the dial much, including the shape of the markers at 6, 9 and 12, the framed date, and the twin outer ring. Compared to the original 222 the Overseas is screaming "I am different" at cost of sacrificing simplicity and beauty IMO. I would love to own a 222 and I like quite a few VC dress watches, but I think VC messed up when transferring its legendary 1970s sports watch into the 21st century, just like IWC, and unlike AP and Patek.
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19 February 2019, 02:11 AM | #23 | |
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On the other hand, the AP and Patek equivalents, I guess something from the Royal Oak line and the Nautilus, do nothing for me at all. I find the designs dated and boring, like something my grandfather would wear. (I never liked those odd little screws around the AP bezel.) Nothing wrong with those watches for some guys, of course, just not for me. |
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19 February 2019, 02:51 AM | #24 | |
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19 February 2019, 06:40 AM | #25 |
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I like all the watches on your list and I don't think you'd go wrong with any of them. Obviously, watches are personal, but, objectively speaking, the Langes are finished the best. The 1815 is a pretty versatile watch and can be dressed up or down, more so than the Saxonia. It would be my first choice but if you were looking for something a bit more elegant looking, you might add the 38mm manual wind VC Traditionnelle to your list. It's less sterile with more character than the Patrimony line but is still a classic design with beautiful dauphine hands and batons and the finishing is only surpassed by Lange in this price range. It also dresses up or down fairly easily.
If you're looking for something more dressy and more elegant, albeit probably less versatile, the hobnail bezel and Roman numerals of the 5119 are gorgeous and the unique case, hands, and guilloche or enamel dial of the Breguet are lovely features. Regardless, you are in a fortunate position and should enjoy the journey. |
19 February 2019, 03:41 PM | #26 | |
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I’d get a 5120, that micro rotor is a sight. Not a fan of the 5119.
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19 February 2019, 05:34 PM | #27 | |
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20 February 2019, 05:42 AM | #28 |
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You don't want a Patek in this price range unless you're a fan of significant signs of wear + unknown service history. A decent pre-loved Patek territory starts at around 17K for not so popular models.
In the given range, Lange is your best bet. Dramatically underappreciated by the market and yet so sophisticated. JLC is a good option too when you go pre-loved.
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20 February 2019, 09:59 AM | #29 |
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GS SBGW253 for me.
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20 February 2019, 11:22 AM | #30 |
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I think that the classic Patek 5120 is no longer made.
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