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29 March 2020, 12:00 AM | #1 |
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The Modern Tudor Bracelet
It might sound odd coming from the Commander in Chief of the Nylon Nation to sing the praises of the modern Tudor bracelet. But the arrival of my BB GMT last year and quick acquisition of the Rivet bracelet as well as my recent Pelagos purchase has me rethinking my Tudor strap options.
The THC In 2011 I bought the [2010] newly released Tudor Heritage Chronograph. Loved it from the start but quickly decided the flat case back and "Big Block" styled case looked best on straps of various descriptions. But my latest Tudor purchases have my THC sporting the OEM bracelet once again. This modern interpretation of the classic Oyster bracelet has solid link construction, larger 22mm w/ 18mm taper to work with the larger cases, and flip lock clasp utilizing ceramic spring loaded balls. The Rivet Originally I thought I preferred the non Rivet for my BB GMT, and in fact, I bought one and it turned out to be a fake. Quickly found an authentic Rivet and could not be happier. This bracelet has a distinct vintage character, with the stair step taper & proportionally sized center links. While I would have preferred real rivets the faux treatment doesn't bother me at all and in fact, they are hard to see when worn and become a non factor. The same quality clasp as found on the THC. This is a perfect match for the GMT. The Pelagos My latest purchase has me diving [pun intended] into titanium. When I first test drove a Pelagos while in Switzerland to attend BaselWorld 2013, shortly after the release of this new Tudor flagship diver, I was put off by the light weight. Not anymore! The lack of heft makes the Pelagos disappear on the wrist. Besides the use of titanium, the standout on this bracelet is the technologically advanced and highly engineered clasp. You have to experience it to fully grasp this amazing design. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kYSIi3jGYc While these bracelets are not perfect, like more adjustments [on the fly] from the clasps, similar to the Pelagos would be welcomed, these modern classic bracelets are the perfect match for the path Tudor has boldly decided to explore. dP
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29 March 2020, 12:03 AM | #2 |
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Agreed. I like the bracelets. But those Tudors do quite well on straps too as you note!
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29 March 2020, 12:04 AM | #3 |
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Just my two cents but the rivet bracelet on a modern watch is brilliant and extremely unique!!
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29 March 2020, 12:08 AM | #4 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
dP
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29 March 2020, 12:43 AM | #5 |
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The Pelagos clasp is absolutely amazing. That, combined with the titanium material makes the watch absolutely disappear on the wrist, which is incredible for such a large and robust watch. I’ve tried that and the GMT on nato straps and to me they both feel more comfortable and composed with bracelet.
It’s incredible and I feel that Tudor should introduce the adjustable clasp (maybe minus the spring section) for all their sport watches. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
29 March 2020, 12:49 AM | #6 | |
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While I've not had any issue w/ fit the bottom line is adjustments on the fly are a welcome advantage. dP
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29 March 2020, 01:22 AM | #7 |
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I absolutely loved the Pelagos bracelet, including the clasp. I actually preferred the Pelagos clasp to my 114060 glidelock.
However, I had fitment issues with my BB steel. The rivet bracelet was very well made, but Tudor not having a half-link for BB bracelets is really, really perplexing. For a company that generally pays attention to detail it's a major oversight, imo. I've read countless posts about people unable to get a proper fit. I sold mine as a result. |
29 March 2020, 01:28 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
dP
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29 March 2020, 03:13 AM | #9 |
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Dan, I love that blue Pelagos. And superb photos!
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29 March 2020, 03:30 AM | #10 |
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Nice Dan!
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29 March 2020, 03:46 AM | #11 |
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Have you tried the Pelagos clasp on the GMT?
Also, I agree with you on about the riveted bracelet on the BB GMT. I feel it adds to the modern vintage charm of the watch. Makes me feel that it is the spiritual successor to the 5-digit Pepsi. |
29 March 2020, 04:14 AM | #12 | |
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Thanks, Richard! Great to hear from you.
Thanks, Francisco! Quote:
dP
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29 March 2020, 04:20 AM | #13 |
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29 March 2020, 05:08 AM | #14 |
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The Modern Tudor Bracelet
Tudor bracelets are amazing and are very well constructed, considering their price point. The greatest gripe I have is only with the Tudor Black Bay line of bracelets and the lack of adjustment options. I don’t own the THC (yet) but I imagine the same lack of adjustment applies.
However, I have worn the Tudor Pelagos (ETA) while diving and own the North Flag. The Tudor Pelagos bracelet is ridiculously comfortable and the adjustment system is nothing short of fantastic. Meanwhile, the North Flag still retains the meager 3 point adjustment of the black bay line but has the advantage of a half link which makes all the difference. |
29 March 2020, 08:21 AM | #15 |
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I’m fortunate that both my Tudor BB S&G and my Heritage Chronograph bracelets fit close to perfect, and I like the look on the bracelet, but I would like at least an easy-link type adjustment. I find the absence of any adjustment is a minor annoyance in these watches.
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29 March 2020, 09:17 AM | #16 |
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I recently picked up the steel bracelet after buying my GMT on the leather. Very impressed with the build quality, overall finish and how solid it feels. The rivets suit well and don't bother me.
I do think that the lack of on the go adjustment is a disappointment however. I may have been a little spoiled with the Easylink on my Exp1 plus an extending clasp on my Omega SMPc. I think at this price point, it would round the watch off into a complete package. The Tudor bracelet is generally comfortable, but after a day on the wrist, it does feel a little tight. I think that if I were to go on vacation somewhere warm, or even if the weather gets a little warmer at home, the Tudor will not get worn with me opting for something with better comfort... |
29 March 2020, 10:05 AM | #17 |
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Options. YES!!!!!!
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29 March 2020, 10:31 AM | #18 |
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I just wish the bracelets tapered more. My only complaint.
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29 March 2020, 02:54 PM | #19 |
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I agree. The bracelet on my THC is finished superbly. It is by far my favorite.
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29 March 2020, 11:16 PM | #20 | |||||
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Quote:
Quote:
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Always. The 4mm taper from watch to clasp is the sweet spot for me. Quote:
dP
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29 March 2020, 11:55 PM | #21 |
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I agree with your assessment, Dan. Well said.
The Tudor bracelet is very comfy, solid, and well-engineered. I love how the width of it kind of just wraps around your wrist. Personally, I can either take or leave the rivets, so it's a non-issue for me. The lack of micro adjustment on such a well thought out and designed bracelet is kind of mystifying, but, hey, they still wear great. Better than the 5 digit Rolexes I had back in the day. IMO, of course. |
30 March 2020, 12:16 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
dP
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30 March 2020, 12:19 AM | #23 |
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Dan as always excellent and insightful. You open-mindedness is always refreshing!
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30 March 2020, 12:26 AM | #24 | |
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Quote:
dP
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30 March 2020, 12:31 AM | #25 |
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Great write up!
Love the BB GMT, I have my eye on them but I really want a 16710 Pepsi. The insanity of going back and forth between thinking should I just buy the BB GMT, or just save and get the 16710 Pepsi haha!
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30 March 2020, 03:50 AM | #26 | |
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I'm lucky enough to own both. There's only been one time in the past year I chose to wear the 16710 over the BB GMT. There's room in a collection for both as they compliment each other while at the same time contrast with each other. After lots of wrist time w/ both the 16710 seems to be more the special occasion watch, but not always. The BB GMT certainly wears larger and the 22mm bracelet adds to that larger presence. Both fit my 6'4" frame perfectly. I do prefer the larger case/ bracelet of the BB GMT, the 16710 feeling more vintage nostalgia. My wife always gets them mixed up and sometimes, for a brief second, so do I. dP
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30 March 2020, 05:40 AM | #27 | |
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Quote:
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30 March 2020, 06:03 AM | #28 | |
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My hunt continues and I stay patient
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30 March 2020, 07:26 AM | #29 |
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How do you feel about the Pelagos rubber strap Dan?
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30 March 2020, 08:27 AM | #30 | |
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Yes, it's a K series, one of 3 years the GMT had both SELs and lug holes. The best of both worlds.
Quote:
Love it. Tried it for a day but think it will work best in summer as the rubber can get hung up on long sleeves. But for summertime it's a great option and I look forward to it. dP
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