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Old 15 December 2021, 12:20 PM   #1
Chute
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Why aren't there more daily Perpetual or Annual Calendars?

As the title says. I have been looking for a perpetual calendar since I first learned what they are 15+ years ago, but I have yet to find one that made sense and could really be worn everyday for years.

And by daily/everyday, for me it would need to be water proof (screw down crown a must), stainless steel (or maybe ceramic) since they are durable, and on a bracelet.

I have seen the Frederic Constant, IWC big pilot and some Glashutte PCs, but don't like the style nor size.

The Skydweller comes to mind but it looks like a huge blingy Datejust to me, but fits all the other criteria, except I wouldn't feel comfortable wearing it everywhere.

I like the JLC Master that is in 39mm but don't know about WR and if you can get a bracelet for it.

Theres also a Omega Aqua Terra AC but its 43mm and too big.
Maybe this model in 39-40mm with a micro adjustment would fit the bill.

I'm envisioning a Rolex Explorer looking Day Date with the Annual calendar function from the Sky dweller where the months are by the hour markers.
That would do the trick. Or even a 40mm Datejust with the same AC function would be perfect and affordable ($10-15k)

Any other suggestions? Or does anyone else just want one perfect watch that no one has made yet?
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Old 15 December 2021, 01:01 PM   #2
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Annual and perpetual calendars have traditionally been high horology and so they are usually on the dressy and expensive side.

That written, the Omega Globemaster is a wonderful annual calendar with 100m water resistance, albeit no screwdown crown, that would make a great daily watch and could form a one watch collection.
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Old 15 December 2021, 01:06 PM   #3
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They are such a niche within any brand that you’ll find few readily available. There was one at my PP AD a few weeks ago. But even at 39mm they are fairly tall on the wrist.

Good luck on your quest.


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Old 15 December 2021, 01:19 PM   #4
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Part of me doesn't understand why they aren't more available.

Ochs and Jr comes to mind as a watchmaker who has tried to simplify the movement but I don't like the display.
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Old 15 December 2021, 01:57 PM   #5
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The Moser Streamliner PC seems to fit all the criteria you mentioned, although it may wear a little bit big. I'm also not sure how readily available they are these days.

I also hadn't realized that the Aqua Terra line had an AC so I looked that up, and it looks like there's a 38.5 mm model available, so that might be a good option as well.
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Old 15 December 2021, 05:07 PM   #6
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Do you mean from lower tier brands?

The top tier brands have them, they cost a bomb and traditionally are in precious metals. A lot of work goes into them this they require the skills in house.

Most are also dress watches so do not have bracelets and WR will be 50.


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Old 15 December 2021, 06:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fwoomp View Post
The Moser Streamliner PC seems to fit all the criteria you mentioned, although it may wear a little bit big. I'm also not sure how readily available they are these days.

I also hadn't realized that the Aqua Terra line had an AC so I looked that up, and it looks like there's a 38.5 mm model available, so that might be a good option as well.
My suggestion as well. Beautiful piece and the most simple and elegant complications. Expecting mine in July.

https://www.h-moser.com/product/stre...tual-calendar/

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Old 15 December 2021, 08:07 PM   #8
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…I have yet to find one that made sense and could really be worn everyday for years.
What I took away from your post is that there are actually plenty of PC and AC watches in the market (you actually reference half a dozen, and that was hardly an exhaustive list) but none or few that actually fit your quite specific requirements. I have seen this over the years where collectors have a very specific list of wants and needs, but no or few watchmaker feels that there is a market for a watch just like that, so nothing or little meets their needs.

I'm sure some of the haute horology houses make them, and I know for certain that years ago Girard-Perregaux produced smaller steel sports watches (often under the banner of their Ferrari collaboration) with such complications (plus sometimes more), but they would have cost a fortune.
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Old 15 December 2021, 08:56 PM   #9
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I've always like this piece from UN, fully waterproof (200m+), bracelet and/or rubber strap, easy to operate perpetual function forwards and backwards and plenty of options from this all black model through to the beautiful blue lacquered dial and bezel version. Might be too big though to meet your criteria.

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/ulyssenar...id16108536.htm

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/ulyssenar...id20675720.htm
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Old 15 December 2021, 09:01 PM   #10
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These are nice and affordable if you can find one

https://www.fratellowatches.com/seik...-watch-review/
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Old 15 December 2021, 10:55 PM   #11
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These are nice and affordable if you can find one

https://www.fratellowatches.com/seik...-watch-review/
Good one Adam. Never seen this before, as is likely the case for almost all of us here. For a minute I thought it was mechanical.
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Old 16 December 2021, 01:14 AM   #12
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I wore my ceramic perpetual calendar from AP every day for two years.
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Old 16 December 2021, 11:26 AM   #13
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Why aren't there more daily Perpetual or Annual Calendars?

Frederique Constant, Girard Perregaux and Montblanc do them too…


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Old 16 December 2021, 01:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justindo View Post
Annual and perpetual calendars have traditionally been high horology and so they are usually on the dressy and expensive side.

That written, the Omega Globemaster is a wonderful annual calendar with 100m water resistance, albeit no screwdown crown, that would make a great daily watch and could form a one watch collection.
I agree most are high watchmakers but don't understand how the technology hasn't trickled down to more affordable options.

Thanks for the Omega Globemaster suggestion, but no bracelet from what I can tell.
There was another suggestion that led me to this 38.5mm Annual Calendar by Omega 231.10.39.22.01.001.
I still haven't figured out how to post photos here.

But the Omega 38.5mm AC and the Moser Model Streamliner are more what I am talking about.

A ceramic AP RO perpetual calendar is a grail watch and if I could trade all my watches for it, I probably would make the trade. Superb!
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Old 16 December 2021, 01:46 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by alpharulez View Post
Frederique Constant, Girard Perregaux and Montblanc do them too…


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Yes and I am hoping there are more brands that expand into Perpetuals.
The technology to make a perpetual calendar can't be that difficult anymore, right?
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Old 16 December 2021, 01:48 PM   #16
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These are nice and affordable if you can find one

https://www.fratellowatches.com/seik...-watch-review/
Great suggestion. I am not discounting quartz watches and am interested in a solar perpetual calendar but almost all have way too much going on dial wise and don't have the simplicity this diver does.
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Old 16 December 2021, 01:54 PM   #17
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I agree most are high watchmakers but don't understand how the technology hasn't trickled down to more affordable options.

Thanks for the Omega Globemaster suggestion, but no bracelet from what I can tell.
There was another suggestion that led me to this 38.5mm Annual Calendar by Omega 231.10.39.22.01.001.
I still haven't figured out how to post photos here.

But the Omega 38.5mm AC and the Moser Model Streamliner are more what I am talking about.

A ceramic AP RO perpetual calendar is a grail watch and if I could trade all my watches for it, I probably would make the trade. Superb!
The Globemaster Annual Calendar comes only on an alligator strap from Omega but the time only versions of the Globe Master with the identical case is available on a bracelet so you could get the bracelet for Omega and it would be perfect, albeit it would probably run you almost $1k.
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Old 16 December 2021, 01:55 PM   #18
Chute
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Originally Posted by arcadelt View Post
What I took away from your post is that there are actually plenty of PC and AC watches in the market (you actually reference half a dozen, and that was hardly an exhaustive list) but none or few that actually fit your quite specific requirements. I have seen this over the years where collectors have a very specific list of wants and needs, but no or few watchmaker feels that there is a market for a watch just like that, so nothing or little meets their needs.

I'm sure some of the haute horology houses make them, and I know for certain that years ago Girard-Perregaux produced smaller steel sports watches (often under the banner of their Ferrari collaboration) with such complications (plus sometimes more), but they would have cost a fortune.
I don't think my requirements are all that unreasonable. With the steel sports watch craze, I don't see why more stainless waterproof options aren't available.

There are some great Patek's like the Nautilus Annual Calendar 5726, and the new 4947/a really fits my criteria but does it have a screw down crown?
Audemars Piguet makes great daily Perpetuals and I love the ceramic and titanium models. But these are all very expensive.

I'm just hoping for more affordable daily models.

The Omega 231.10.39.22.01.001 really fits my criteria if you can get a micro adjustment which I think is an option.

Thanks for all the help guys!

The Ulysse Nardin is a no go btw. Way too big for me.
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Old 16 December 2021, 07:34 PM   #19
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This SS AC has screw down crown, good WR and on bracelet.

IMG_16122021_173310_(800_x_1080_pixel).jpg
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