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Jonathan W. Fink · 26 May 2019, 03:17 PM

I. Introduction: A friend has decided to buy a preloved Aquaracer Calibre S, and it has raised a series of questions: First, why did TAG Heuer cease manufacturing the Calibre S movement? Second, how has TAG Heuer changed since the Great Recession? Third, after retro mania ends, what will TAG Heuer's design future be?

II. Why did TAG Heuer cease manufacturing the Calibre S movement?

A. I, for one, love the Calibre S movement, and I wholeheartedly support my friend's decision to purchase a preloved Aquaracer Calibre S. For me, the hype surrounding the Calibre S at its inception was largely true: That the Calibre S represented an electromechanical movement with incredible chronograph precision. The Calibre S seemed like a natural evolution of TAG Heuer as a manufacture and etablisseur of important chronographs. For the time, the Calibre S was incredibly forward thinking. The only reason of which I can think as to why TAG Heuer ceased manufacturing the Calibre S was cost.

B. TAG Heuer introduced the Calibre S in around 2007-2008, just as the Great Recession was hitting, and many things changed for the company. At the time TAG Heuer introduced the Calibre S, the company seemed to be at a relative high point in its peripatetic existence. LVMH had owned TAG Heuer for almost a decade, all of the quality problems from the Techniques D'Avant Garde were resolved, and TAG Heuer was introducing many innovative products. In addition to the Calibre S, TAG Heuer had developed the Grand Carrera line, the Link Calibre 36 courtesy of Zenith, and developing the Monaco V4. Tiger Woods, then at the height of his powers, was joined at the hip to the company. In the theatres, Jason Bourne was everywhere with his Link Quartz Chronograph. TAG Heuer seemed to be the second choice to Rolex and Omega of many in the watch community, myself included.

C. Then, in 2008, the wheels started coming off. The Great Recession hit, Tiger Woods suffered his epic meltdown, and, from out of nowhere, people who had been praising TAG Heuer's return to status as a watchmaker, couldn't find anything to like about TAG Heuer's post modern designs. I still loved the designs, which I thought were innovative, and progressive, with a combination of elements found in no other company. Rolex was staid and stable. Omega was a forward thinking Rolex. Breitling was bling. And, TAG Heuer was the best of all three. But, for many, after Tiger Woods' demise, that was no longer the case. The sales plummeted, the market contracted, and the new people who TAG Heuer brought in, including Jean Claude Biver, were set to reinvent the company once again. In so doing, these individuals trashed, in my opinion, some of the best work TAG Heuer or Heuer had ever done in the five years leading up to the Great Recession.

III. How has TAG Heuer changed since the Great Recession?

A. Like many other companies, TAG Heuer took to reissues of its most famous designs from its catalog. Instead of reissuing these designs as limited editions like so many other companies, eg Omega, TAG Heuer placed these reissues at the front and center of its portfolio. These reissues included multiple versions of the Carrera, an expanded Monaco line, with the Steve McQueen dial, the Autavia, and the Monza. As TAG Heuer pushed these reissues, with the exception of the Aquaracer, it hid everything that had been accomplished during the Tiger Woods era. The company nearly allowed the Link to whither on the vine, and, the company reinvented the F1 for what seemed like the 100,000th time.

B. As a result of now doubt impeccable and commendable planning and research, TAG Heuer introduced the reeditions just as the retro watch phase was taking hold. When people had money in their pockets again, they suddenly wanted, every cool watch from the 1950s through 1970s. The Carrera, Autavia, Monaco, and Monza represented some of the best watches of those decades. Why have retro watches been so popular since the Great Recession? In part, I think because people are looking for something to remind them of what they were told represented better time, and probably because the watches of the 1990s and 2000s were too close in proximity to the housing crisis and the chaos that immediately followed.

C. Regardless of what one thinks of TAG Heuer's strategy, the strategy has once again returned the company to watch making prominence. However, I think TAG Heuer has somewhat turned its back on one its most important corporate values, going back the company's very beginning as Heuer: The value of innovation. Yes, the new watches are beautiful Yes, the new watches possess impeccable fit and finish. Yes, I love them. However, the new watches are not particularly ground breaking. Outside of the Aquaracer line, we no longer see TAG Heuer experimenting with new movements or case shapes. The current core lineup is all very traditional. And, I would argue that the current Carerra, Monaco, and Autavia line, do not exceed the quality of the top models from 2006 through 2008, in fit and finish, workmanship, or durability. TAG Heuer appears to have recognized the potential risk of being without a chair to sit in at the top tier watchmaking table when retromania ends. The company already seems to be positioning itself for the post retromania world.

IV. After retromania ends, what will TAG Heuer's design future be?

A. At some point, the retromania will have run its course and every possible watch buyer will have bought every possible retro design from every possible legitimate retro manufacture, etablisseur, and brand. To succeed, in the post retro world, TAG Heuer will need than a recycled Calibre S. I also think TAG Heuer has more than already dipped its toes into the post retro water, and, the Aquaracer Calibre S is closely related to some of these products.

B. We are already seeing some of the products that TAG Heuer will push in its post retro future. Examples include the following: The newer line of Aquaracer quartz watches that harken back to the first Aquaracer models of the early 2000s, the reintroduction of the Link in 3 hand and chronograph mechanical movements, and I think, most importantly, the Connected modular smart watch. The Aquaracer Calibre S that my friend intends to buy is closely related to all these products because it is an Aquaracer, it uses avant garde design language, it is quartz, and quartz is closer to a smart watch than it is to a mechanical watch.

C. For reasons including the following, the Connected modular smart watch is probably TAG Heurer's most important product for the future: First, to my eye, it combines the best elements of the Carrera, Aquaracer, Link, and F1 into a single design. To wit, the watch has the Link Lugs, Aquaracer's case shape, the Link's flowing lines, and, a ceramic or metallic smartwatch version of the F1's bezel. Second, the Connected modular smart watch uses an incredible chip from Intel, with an amazing flexible Android OS. Third, the timepiece allows you to change out and replace almost all the parts, including the smart module for a mechanical movement, when the smart module is obsolete. Fourth, the watch is Swiss made. With these features, TAG Heuer has positioned the Connected modular smartwatch to satisfy technology lovers and mechanical watch lovers.

D. For the Connected modular smart watch to succeed, I think three things, including the following must happen. First, the electronic companies must continue to improve battery life. Second, TAG Heuer must increase water resistance from 50m to 100m, so that the company may truly call the Connected modular smart watch a smart watch. Third, TAG Heuer must allow customers to replace the smart module with a greater variety of mechanical movements and an updated smart module. With these developments, TAG Heuer will produce a single product line that appeals to technology junkies, accuracy junkies, and the traditional WIS.

V. Conclusion: My friend's decision to purchase a pre loved Aquaracer Calibre S is both smart and important. First, the decision is smart but because the purchase involve an underappreciated watch from an era in the not so distant past that many have forgotten. Second, the decision is important because it appears to identify a possible shift away from retro designs and a shift towards innovative and creative future developments. Please share your thoughts. Thank you.

Abdullah71601 · 27 May 2019, 02:08 AM

No comment on the content of your post, but you have a lovely outline format, reminiscent of a school project years ago.

austinp · 27 May 2019, 02:17 AM

Lots of words there...

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

crew · 27 May 2019, 02:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abdullah71601

No comment on the content of your post, but you have a lovely outline format, reminiscent of a school project years ago.

Have to agree with that, Abdullah.

Quote:

Originally Posted by austinp

Lots of words there...

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Agree again, tldr.
-but it looks really nice.

FTX I · 27 May 2019, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crew

Agree again, tldr.
-but it looks really nice.

This

junamuan · 27 May 2019, 02:46 AM

Lots of words indeed. I can feel the passion for the brand. You'll get more passionate responses from Tag Heuer forums.

haven_seeker · 27 May 2019, 02:51 AM

I'd posted about this a few years ago, but bringing up TAG Heuer I'll happily retell the story.

I had my gaze on a WAK2120 (still remember the part number!!!) for a couple of years.

(note: NOT my image)

MSRP at the time was ~$3795 CDN but I couldn't push myself to take the plunge for two reasons:
1. I already had a gold-plated watch where the plating wore out badly. Seeing as plated gold can't easily be serviced, I'd be stuck buying $1200 CDN replacement bracelets in no time.
2. The resale on these things is abysmal, yet there aren't any on the market. Why? No one wants to lose 60% value so they just hang on to them.

So I saved up my money for the real deal:

It's not in the greatest shape, the bezel has some nicks and the crystal has some marks but I should never have to buy a new bracelet in my lifetime, the crown system is infinitely more reliable (the Aquaracer I mention above was PLAGUED with crown stripping issues), and I can probably sell this watch today for more than I paid.

TAG, as much as I like the brand, is really just a fringe brand and lower hanging fruit for the masses. You're infinitely better off spending same or less money for a Tudor equivalent model, ending up with a better made watch, better resale value, and overall better value.

...Sorry, carry on....

Blansky · 27 May 2019, 02:51 AM

Welcome, I feel unqualified to answer your eloquent query but didn't the promotion of J.C. Biver over LVMH demote TAG in the pecking order to a less expensive product in the product lineup.

And I think instead get it's focus towards digital/mechanical to compete against Apple and smart watches.

I could be wrong about this.

http://leanluxe.com/tag-heuers-new-g...-claude-biver/

https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/11/int...tag-heuer.html

911NBK · 27 May 2019, 02:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junamuan

Lots of words indeed. I can feel the passion for the brand. You'll get more passionate responses from Tag Heuer forums.

This.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

sunset117 · 27 May 2019, 11:48 AM

I like Tag Heuer. My first real watch was a tag for my 14th bday. Formula 1. I then saved up and got myself a fancy formula 1 at 16. And got an omega for hs grad. Regardless, it was tag that got me interested in fancy watches at the young age. They had a fair price but were still luxury for my age. It started a great love affair so I respect tag, and I’ve never had to service any of my tags (I’ve had 4, 3 for over 5 years). They are well made. Fair price.

sunset117 · 27 May 2019, 11:49 AM

This is my most recent tag. All my tags are formula 1 series in some way.

glamorama · 27 May 2019, 10:31 PM

Very informative post.

A friend at a business school in Europe actually had TAG Heuer as business case study recently. Guess we’ll see how future pans out for them with smart watches and all.

26 May 2019, 03:17 PM	#1
Jonathan W. Fink "TRF" Member Join Date: May 2019 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 4	A friend has decided to buy a preloved Aquaracer Calibre S, and it has raised a serie I. Introduction: A friend has decided to buy a preloved Aquaracer Calibre S, and it has raised a series of questions: First, why did TAG Heuer cease manufacturing the Calibre S movement? Second, how has TAG Heuer changed since the Great Recession? Third, after retro mania ends, what will TAG Heuer's design future be? II. Why did TAG Heuer cease manufacturing the Calibre S movement? A. I, for one, love the Calibre S movement, and I wholeheartedly support my friend's decision to purchase a preloved Aquaracer Calibre S. For me, the hype surrounding the Calibre S at its inception was largely true: That the Calibre S represented an electromechanical movement with incredible chronograph precision. The Calibre S seemed like a natural evolution of TAG Heuer as a manufacture and etablisseur of important chronographs. For the time, the Calibre S was incredibly forward thinking. The only reason of which I can think as to why TAG Heuer ceased manufacturing the Calibre S was cost. B. TAG Heuer introduced the Calibre S in around 2007-2008, just as the Great Recession was hitting, and many things changed for the company. At the time TAG Heuer introduced the Calibre S, the company seemed to be at a relative high point in its peripatetic existence. LVMH had owned TAG Heuer for almost a decade, all of the quality problems from the Techniques D'Avant Garde were resolved, and TAG Heuer was introducing many innovative products. In addition to the Calibre S, TAG Heuer had developed the Grand Carrera line, the Link Calibre 36 courtesy of Zenith, and developing the Monaco V4. Tiger Woods, then at the height of his powers, was joined at the hip to the company. In the theatres, Jason Bourne was everywhere with his Link Quartz Chronograph. TAG Heuer seemed to be the second choice to Rolex and Omega of many in the watch community, myself included. C. Then, in 2008, the wheels started coming off. The Great Recession hit, Tiger Woods suffered his epic meltdown, and, from out of nowhere, people who had been praising TAG Heuer's return to status as a watchmaker, couldn't find anything to like about TAG Heuer's post modern designs. I still loved the designs, which I thought were innovative, and progressive, with a combination of elements found in no other company. Rolex was staid and stable. Omega was a forward thinking Rolex. Breitling was bling. And, TAG Heuer was the best of all three. But, for many, after Tiger Woods' demise, that was no longer the case. The sales plummeted, the market contracted, and the new people who TAG Heuer brought in, including Jean Claude Biver, were set to reinvent the company once again. In so doing, these individuals trashed, in my opinion, some of the best work TAG Heuer or Heuer had ever done in the five years leading up to the Great Recession. III. How has TAG Heuer changed since the Great Recession? A. Like many other companies, TAG Heuer took to reissues of its most famous designs from its catalog. Instead of reissuing these designs as limited editions like so many other companies, eg Omega, TAG Heuer placed these reissues at the front and center of its portfolio. These reissues included multiple versions of the Carrera, an expanded Monaco line, with the Steve McQueen dial, the Autavia, and the Monza. As TAG Heuer pushed these reissues, with the exception of the Aquaracer, it hid everything that had been accomplished during the Tiger Woods era. The company nearly allowed the Link to whither on the vine, and, the company reinvented the F1 for what seemed like the 100,000th time. B. As a result of now doubt impeccable and commendable planning and research, TAG Heuer introduced the reeditions just as the retro watch phase was taking hold. When people had money in their pockets again, they suddenly wanted, every cool watch from the 1950s through 1970s. The Carrera, Autavia, Monaco, and Monza represented some of the best watches of those decades. Why have retro watches been so popular since the Great Recession? In part, I think because people are looking for something to remind them of what they were told represented better time, and probably because the watches of the 1990s and 2000s were too close in proximity to the housing crisis and the chaos that immediately followed. C. Regardless of what one thinks of TAG Heuer's strategy, the strategy has once again returned the company to watch making prominence. However, I think TAG Heuer has somewhat turned its back on one its most important corporate values, going back the company's very beginning as Heuer: The value of innovation. Yes, the new watches are beautiful Yes, the new watches possess impeccable fit and finish. Yes, I love them. However, the new watches are not particularly ground breaking. Outside of the Aquaracer line, we no longer see TAG Heuer experimenting with new movements or case shapes. The current core lineup is all very traditional. And, I would argue that the current Carerra, Monaco, and Autavia line, do not exceed the quality of the top models from 2006 through 2008, in fit and finish, workmanship, or durability. TAG Heuer appears to have recognized the potential risk of being without a chair to sit in at the top tier watchmaking table when retromania ends. The company already seems to be positioning itself for the post retromania world. IV. After retromania ends, what will TAG Heuer's design future be? A. At some point, the retromania will have run its course and every possible watch buyer will have bought every possible retro design from every possible legitimate retro manufacture, etablisseur, and brand. To succeed, in the post retro world, TAG Heuer will need than a recycled Calibre S. I also think TAG Heuer has more than already dipped its toes into the post retro water, and, the Aquaracer Calibre S is closely related to some of these products. B. We are already seeing some of the products that TAG Heuer will push in its post retro future. Examples include the following: The newer line of Aquaracer quartz watches that harken back to the first Aquaracer models of the early 2000s, the reintroduction of the Link in 3 hand and chronograph mechanical movements, and I think, most importantly, the Connected modular smart watch. The Aquaracer Calibre S that my friend intends to buy is closely related to all these products because it is an Aquaracer, it uses avant garde design language, it is quartz, and quartz is closer to a smart watch than it is to a mechanical watch. C. For reasons including the following, the Connected modular smart watch is probably TAG Heurer's most important product for the future: First, to my eye, it combines the best elements of the Carrera, Aquaracer, Link, and F1 into a single design. To wit, the watch has the Link Lugs, Aquaracer's case shape, the Link's flowing lines, and, a ceramic or metallic smartwatch version of the F1's bezel. Second, the Connected modular smart watch uses an incredible chip from Intel, with an amazing flexible Android OS. Third, the timepiece allows you to change out and replace almost all the parts, including the smart module for a mechanical movement, when the smart module is obsolete. Fourth, the watch is Swiss made. With these features, TAG Heuer has positioned the Connected modular smartwatch to satisfy technology lovers and mechanical watch lovers. D. For the Connected modular smart watch to succeed, I think three things, including the following must happen. First, the electronic companies must continue to improve battery life. Second, TAG Heuer must increase water resistance from 50m to 100m, so that the company may truly call the Connected modular smart watch a smart watch. Third, TAG Heuer must allow customers to replace the smart module with a greater variety of mechanical movements and an updated smart module. With these developments, TAG Heuer will produce a single product line that appeals to technology junkies, accuracy junkies, and the traditional WIS. V. Conclusion: My friend's decision to purchase a pre loved Aquaracer Calibre S is both smart and important. First, the decision is smart but because the purchase involve an underappreciated watch from an era in the not so distant past that many have forgotten. Second, the decision is important because it appears to identify a possible shift away from retro designs and a shift towards innovative and creative future developments. Please share your thoughts. Thank you.

27 May 2019, 02:08 AM	#2
Abdullah71601 Banned Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Calumet Harbor Watch: ing da Bears Posts: 13,568	No comment on the content of your post, but you have a lovely outline format, reminiscent of a school project years ago.

27 May 2019, 02:17 AM	#3
austinp "TRF" Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: us Posts: 3,294	Lots of words there... Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

27 May 2019, 02:46 AM	#6
junamuan "TRF" Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Real Name: Jun Location: Vancouver, BC Watch: BLNR Posts: 672	Lots of words indeed. I can feel the passion for the brand. You'll get more passionate responses from Tag Heuer forums.

27 May 2019, 02:51 AM	#7
haven_seeker "TRF" Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Northern Ontario Watch: 19018N OQ Posts: 848	I'd posted about this a few years ago, but bringing up TAG Heuer I'll happily retell the story. I had my gaze on a WAK2120 (still remember the part number!!!) for a couple of years. (note: NOT my image) MSRP at the time was ~$3795 CDN but I couldn't push myself to take the plunge for two reasons: 1. I already had a gold-plated watch where the plating wore out badly. Seeing as plated gold can't easily be serviced, I'd be stuck buying $1200 CDN replacement bracelets in no time. 2. The resale on these things is abysmal, yet there aren't any on the market. Why? No one wants to lose 60% value so they just hang on to them. So I saved up my money for the real deal: It's not in the greatest shape, the bezel has some nicks and the crystal has some marks but I should never have to buy a new bracelet in my lifetime, the crown system is infinitely more reliable (the Aquaracer I mention above was PLAGUED with crown stripping issues), and I can probably sell this watch today for more than I paid. TAG, as much as I like the brand, is really just a fringe brand and lower hanging fruit for the masses. You're infinitely better off spending same or less money for a Tudor equivalent model, ending up with a better made watch, better resale value, and overall better value. ...Sorry, carry on....

27 May 2019, 02:51 AM	#8
Blansky 2024 Pledge Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: swmnpoolsmovie* Posts: 9,255	Welcome, I feel unqualified to answer your eloquent query but didn't the promotion of J.C. Biver over LVMH demote TAG in the pecking order to a less expensive product in the product lineup. And I think instead get it's focus towards digital/mechanical to compete against Apple and smart watches. I could be wrong about this. http://leanluxe.com/tag-heuers-new-g...-claude-biver/ https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/11/int...tag-heuer.html

27 May 2019, 11:48 AM	#10
sunset117 "TRF" Member Join Date: May 2019 Location: San Francisco Posts: 165	I like Tag Heuer. My first real watch was a tag for my 14th bday. Formula 1. I then saved up and got myself a fancy formula 1 at 16. And got an omega for hs grad. Regardless, it was tag that got me interested in fancy watches at the young age. They had a fair price but were still luxury for my age. It started a great love affair so I respect tag, and I’ve never had to service any of my tags (I’ve had 4, 3 for over 5 years). They are well made. Fair price.

27 May 2019, 10:31 PM	#12
glamorama "TRF" Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Real Name: Dan Location: Benelux Posts: 1,919	Very informative post. A friend at a business school in Europe actually had TAG Heuer as business case study recently. Guess we’ll see how future pans out for them with smart watches and all.

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