Modern Dress Watch Options

[golfski]

My current collection is:
- Rolex DSSD JC 126660 - Weekend/Casual/Summer watch
- Rolex Explorer II 216570 - Everyday, sports/activities
- AP Diver - 15710ST - Weekend/Casual/Summer watch
- Tag Heuer 01 Black Ceramic Chrono Skeleton leather - Weekend/Casual
- Tag Heuer 1887 on black leather - Current ‘Dress’ watch.

I am thinking my next watch will be a more proper ‘dress’ watch that I can wear on special occasions and more formal events, even though any of the above properly dressed up could suffice, IMO. Thinking charity dinners, weddings, funerals, suit attire, etc. I have only worn my suit to funerals, tend to not wear suits, but do dress formal enough (slacks, tie, sweater, vest) and mostly business casual outside formal events.

My thinking for a ‘modern dress watch’ would be something that could be worn in formal attire no question but could be considered in more casual environment as well. Most likely something on leather. I also tend to prefer bigger watches, wouldn’t even consider anything less than the 39.5mm world time.

Options
1) AP 26331OR (Rose gold, brown dial on brown leather)
2) PP 5524G/R - I love this watch, is it ‘dress’ enough?
3) PP 5230G - My first thought when thinking dress watch, worried its not casual enough and limited opportunity to wear
4) Rolex DateJust II/41 Blue Azzuro, romans, smooth bezel
5) Rolex Day-Date (Most likely SS, but would consider Platinum and blue dial)

Given my current collection, which I don’t see changing anytime soon - what dress watch do you think would fit? I would jump at a good deal on any of the above, but can’t have them all.

[EdwardC]

Have you considered the Patek 5227 or 5296? They are both very classic dress watches from Patek. One can argue 5296 is the benchmark for dress watches

[golfski]

Originally Posted by EdwardC

Have you considered the Patek 5227 or 5296? They are both very classic dress watches from Patek. One can argue 5296 is the benchmark for dress watches

I have, but ultimately those are too dressy for me. I would never wear it other than the most formal of occasions and find it a tad small for my taste. The ones I’ve considered are more considerable in size and what I’d consider more casual dress (sweater/sport jacket/suit) vs. traditional (tux). Much like in my clothes, this is as formal as I can get

I lean towards the 5524G as I think it could be a casual daily for me but worry it may still leave me feeling like I have a gap in the dress/formal wear. The World Time has been what I have craved the longest to fill the gap, but worry it may be too formal and hardly worn.

[Ichiran]

I'm not sure if 5212 is formal, but it is modern to me and I highly recommend it.

[MILGAUSS88]

Originally Posted by golfski

5) Rolex Day-Date (Most likely SS, but would consider Platinum and blue dial)

The Day-Date does not come in steel. It is available in white gold or platinum.

[csj]

Who says the world time can’t be worn daily? IMO that would be a supremely baller move to have that worn as a daily/semi-daily with whatever attire you choose.

[golfski]

Originally Posted by csj

Who says the world time can’t be worn daily? IMO that would be a supremely baller move to have that worn as a daily/semi-daily with whatever attire you choose.

I like the way you think! This is exactly where I started

Originally Posted by Ichiran

I'm not sure if 5212 is formal, but it is modern to me and I highly recommend it.

I do like this reference, curious on availability? I assume this isn’t out yet (don’t see anything on C24), is it going to be obtainable? I’d put this between the 5524G and the World Time in terms of formality in my books, and I like the unique complication. This is definitely one to consider

[nyc2la]

5270p (my favorite and am an owner who wears it with both a suit and jeans)

Or

5905p - I prefer the black dial



Both fit the bill in terms of size and sporty and dressy.

[mzcloud]

5524G is 42mm; larger than your classic dress watch. I have wore with a suit but I am usually casual, smart casual and this watch fits in very well. My top choice from your list.


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[jscw]

Originally Posted by EdwardC

Have you considered the Patek 5227 or 5296? They are both very classic dress watches from Patek. One can argue 5296 is the benchmark for dress watches

+1 but too bad 5296 has already retired by Patek.

[PJ S]

Originally Posted by golfski

….

I am thinking my next watch will be a more proper ‘dress’ watch that I can wear on special occasions and more formal events, even though any of the above properly dressed up could suffice, IMO. Thinking charity dinners, weddings, funerals, suit attire, etc. I have only worn my suit to funerals, tend to not wear suits, but do dress formal enough (slacks, tie, sweater, vest) and mostly business casual outside formal events.

My thinking for a ‘modern dress watch’ would be something that could be worn in formal attire no question but could be considered in more casual environment as well. Most likely something on leather. I also tend to prefer bigger watches, wouldn’t even consider anything less than the 39.5mm world time.

Options
1) AP 26331OR (Rose gold, brown dial on brown leather)
2) PP 5524G/R - I love this watch, is it ‘dress’ enough?
3) PP 5230G - My first thought when thinking dress watch, worried its not casual enough and limited opportunity to wear
4) Rolex DateJust II/41 Blue Azzuro, romans, smooth bezel
5) Rolex Day-Date (Most likely SS, but would consider Platinum and blue dial)
….

1) With formal attire, seriously? #shakeheadindisbelief
2) Oh sweet Jesus… from bad to worse!
3) Ah ha… so there are some braincells working in there after all!
4) <knock, knock> Hello? Is thing on?
5) End of term report card reads: “… but needs to show more effort.”

Is it even worth my while mentioning Parmigiani Fleurier, Moser & Cie, Urban Jurgensen, Moritz Grossmann, Laurent Ferrier, Chopard L.U.C. or the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Petite Seconds Email or Classic Bridges?

[rw2008]

Lange 1815 40mm

Classic dress watch but somehow works well casually

[ap1]

5170p

[RHIII]

Go Patek - you won’t regret it.


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[AK797]

Lange 1 MP or Dato.

[mongrelnomoad]

Lange. Always Lange.

[kijoe]

I would take a look at Lange 1 or Richard Lange.


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[jd57]

Agree with Lange. My work/dress rotation and all are 40-41mm and most dress down pretty well too.

[golfski]

Originally Posted by PJ S

1) With formal attire, seriously? #shakeheadindisbelief
2) Oh sweet Jesus… from bad to worse!
3) Ah ha… so there are some braincells working in there after all!
4) <knock, knock> Hello? Is thing on?
5) End of term report card reads: “… but needs to show more effort.”

To me, most of the above are definitely formal enough for the situations I have found myself in and would expect to be in. I am fine leaving open the possibility of it not being formal enough for some once in a lifetime event (ex: meet President or something) which required me to buy a pure formal dress watch for that special occasion

[golfski]

Originally Posted by mongrelnomoad

Lange. Always Lange.

I will do some homework on Lange, have seen many online but don’t know much about them. I do heavily favor Rolex, AP and PP and would do a VC if it was right.

[TooWoundUp]

I would either go Lange Dato, or a Patek AC

[Pim]

It looks like you are a sporty guy and looking for a little mixup. My advice is to venture into the dress watch space slowly. In my experience, if you go from sport to dress to fast you will not wear your dress watch. So my solution was to go dress but not to go "old man" style. My first dress watch was a Patek 5396R-001 with sector dial. It real dress but with a hint of sportines, i have slapt a blue Patek strap on it instead of the standard brown strap. I absolutely love it !

Not the best photo but here it is:


5396R-001

[mongrelnomoad]

Originally Posted by Pim

It looks like you are a sporty guy and looking for a little mixup. My advice is to venture into the dress watch space slowly. In my experience, if you go from sport to dress to fast you will not wear your dress watch. So my solution was to go dress but not to go "old man" style. My first dress watch was a Patek 5396R-001 with sector dial. It real dress but with a hint of sportines, i have slapt a blue Patek strap on it instead of the standard brown strap. I absolutely love it !

That's why my Lange 1 Moonphase wears a pastel-blue strap. Looks amazing with a suit, and killer with jeans and a t-shirt (or a cardigan).

[JR16]

From PP- 5205g May tic all the boxes. Or 5270p if you have the funds. I don’t think 5524 is formal enough for a dress watch

Would also seriously look at Lange 1, 1815 chrono, dato.

And don’t forget FPJ- formal or casual, easy strap changes, modern yet classic feel.


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[Pim]

Originally Posted by mongrelnomoad

That's why my Lange 1 Moonphase wears a pastel-blue strap. Looks amazing with a suit, and killer with jeans and a t-shirt (or a cardigan).

It is absolutely stunning !!!

[Pim]

Sporty but dressy !

[mongrelnomoad]

Originally Posted by Pim

It is absolutely stunning !!!

Yours ain't bad either!

[uniqueMR]

Patek 6006 ?

[michaelodonnell123]

This:

[tinygears]

I’ve always been partial to the 5039, and 5139. I have the smaller of the two. The larger might work for you. Discreet, beautiful, and disappears beneath a cuff.