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10 September 2015, 10:37 AM | #1 |
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Unusual caseback removal
Unusual to me anyway! Can anyone tell me what type of tool would be required to remove this 1940s Canadian-made Pioneer (I think) caseback please?
thanks in advance, Adam |
10 September 2015, 12:11 PM | #2 |
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An adjustable three point opener, preferably one with interchangeable heads (to switch to the flat head pins), should do the trick Adam...
Or, even though I've never tried one, those friction type squeeze balls you see on EBay may do the trick?!?!
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10 September 2015, 01:09 PM | #3 |
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Thanks Rob. I might give one of the balls a go, then I could use it on other watches, too.
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10 September 2015, 05:58 PM | #4 |
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Would soft jawed pliers work for this Adam?
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10 September 2015, 07:31 PM | #5 |
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10 September 2015, 07:44 PM | #6 |
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I had the same problem with a similar watch case.
I heated the face of a 50mm x 50mm x 8mm thick square of PVC with a hot gun, pressed it on to the caseback and let it cool. It took on the shape. Then unscrewed the back. It was an old watch and it was TIGHT. But I have these items at my factory. IMO Rob a 3 point case back remover would slip on that shallow angle unless you could wind it in really tight and that in itself would be difficult.
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10 September 2015, 08:34 PM | #7 |
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I have a pair of 2 inch soft jawed pliers (channel locks clone) that work well on tight plastic components without marring the surface. This picture off Google is similar.
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10 September 2015, 09:21 PM | #8 |
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Thanks for the suggestion
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10 September 2015, 09:29 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
As the PVC cools and shrinks it takes the shape. |
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10 September 2015, 09:45 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
But if you don't have a ball handy, you could try balling up some duct tape with the sticky side out. I saw a guy do that at an NWACC watch mart. Everyone laughed until they saw it work. |
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11 September 2015, 02:07 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
It never ceases to amaze me on how much torque they can safely apply. Even better, they are about $5.00 on eBay, including shipping!
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11 September 2015, 05:26 AM | #12 |
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That caseback screams for slip when used any kind of grip opener.
1) Wipe caseback clean 2) take a hex nut and superglue it in caseback 3) let set. 4) open. Only downfall in this technique is possibility of scratching the caseback with the wrench if not careful. I just realized the hex nut with collar would be superb in this method. Adds contact and protection. |
11 September 2015, 10:04 AM | #13 |
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Thanks for all the input guys. Was going for this but got outbid at 200 pounds.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331647097106...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Last edited by Old Expat Beast; 11 September 2015 at 05:16 PM.. |
11 September 2015, 05:41 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
That's if the rubber ball or Bergeon wooden stick with rubber end dont work. |
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13 September 2015, 04:38 AM | #15 |
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13 September 2015, 05:45 AM | #16 |
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Go with the sticky ball first. If that doesn't work then try the spanner.
These used stamped sheet metal "wrenches" that caught all the flats. These came in many flavors and they usually have an odd number of flats so a normal parallel jaw plied won't work without rounding the corners. |
13 September 2015, 06:58 AM | #17 |
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+1 3point that is adjustable Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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