A week on the wrist with the Tudor BB58 – a Rolex enthusiast falls hard for Tudor!

[Brich436]

I have been a Rolex collector and enthusiast for the past 20 years. I purchased my first Rolex (a Datejust) in August of 2003 to commemorate a special occasion. Over the years I have been fortunate enough to add 3 more models to my collection; an Explorer 2, a Submariner, and most recently the Explorer 1.

For the past several years I have been closely watching Tudor and the new watches they have been releasing. One of the big factors that prevented me front exploring the brand further was the thickness of the designs. I found and still find the 14-15mm thick steel watches to be a bit thick and bulky for my wrist (although I could be persuaded to try the Titanium Pelagos 42mm). When Tudor released the original Black Bay 58 in 2018 I was very intrigued by the case size, proportions and vintage design cues. The gilt dial was not my thing, and I wasn’t into the hype of paying over retail for a Tudor watch. I have always purchased my Rolex watches from my local AD at retail. When they released the blue dial version of the BB58 it really spoke to me but I found the hype surrounding the watch in 2020 to be a big turn off and didn’t give it much more thought.

Fast forward to 2023 and I began trying on the BB58 blue in the ADs (who all had them in the show cases) and checking out the classifieds section here on TRF. I took note that I could pick up a nice condition BB58 blue, complete for under $3k. When I looked a little deeper it seemed as if the market for the BB58 was softening to the point that nice examples were available in the mid to high $2k range. Now I was interested. Very interested.

So last week I picked up a 2020 BB58 blue from a fellow forum member here for a very good deal. The watch was complete on bracelet and included the factory Tudor nato strap. It was in excellent condition. The first thing that struck me about the watch was how much it reminded me of the 5-digit references that Rolex used to make. The aluminum bezel, the case shape and size not to mention the fact that you could actually try one of these on in store to see if you liked it! The blue that Tudor uses on the reference is spectacular. It’s a deep Navy blue that has hues of grey in it and it matches the grey text on the dial perfectly. The factory nato strap is the finest strap I have ever used and or had on a watch – its amazing! I wasn’t sure how I would feel about the snowflake handset but now after using it for a week I can say for certain I actually prefer it to the Rolex Mercedes handset. The amount of lume on the snowflake hands makes them so easy to read in dim or lighting. The Tudor case shape and lug chamfering is just spectacular and its amazing that they can offer this level of case finishing (superior to my 16570) at this price range. The movement in my example seems to be very well regulated and is running at -1s per day (well within Tudors spec of -2/+4).

In my opinion for ¼ the price of my Submariner the BB58 is simply unbeatable in today’s watch market. The more I learned about Tudors rich history and their price to performance ratio the more I liked the brand.

Some of the things I did not enjoy about the BB58 were the bracelet. I found the step cut sizing of the links to be in the perfect position to yank arm hairs out. I also had some fitment issues getting it just right, but I got it where it fits decently. Tudor should offer a ½ link and more micro adjustments with this clasp. Obviously adding the T fit clasp would be nice but it might add a lot of bulk to the clasp. Perhaps some version of EZ-link could be added to let the bracelet out a bit when the wrist swells. The rivets on the bracelet don’t really bother me much – I could take or leave them. To me this watch belongs on the Tudor factory nato strap.

The watch weighs 134 grams on the bracelet (3 links removed) or 74 grams on the nato strap. When you wear it on the nato strap it is so lightweight it’s amazing! Case size is a true 39mm and is very, very similar to the Explorer 2 – 16570 which is listed as a 40mm but measures out at 39mm as well. I would say the Tudor bracelet is superior to the Rolex 5 series bracelets. Case thickness is another area where the BB58 shines (11.9mm) and is very very close to the 12mm of the Explorer 2 – 16570. Both wear very thin on the wrist and are very comfortable.

So much of the modern Tudor brand reminds of what Rolex used to be. You can see almost all the models in the store (try them on – crazy I know) and maybe even get a nice discount on one. Tudor is making some amazing tool watches currently and, in my opinion, Rolex has moved more upmarket to more a of a jewelry brand / status. The pre-owned Tudor market is full of nice example complete set used models that can be had for a substantial discount (just like Rolex used to have).

One area where Rolex really is superior is in bracelet design and adjustability. I believe that the newest Tudor releases with T Fit clasps will close the gap but compared to my BB58 I do feel that the fit and finish of the Rolex bracelet is far superior. I do not have any desire to wear my Submariner on a strap – the bracelet is a work of art. Another area I will give the nod to Rolex in is in the bezel action. While the Tudor is very, very good (superior to Omega in my opinion) it is not as good as the Submariner which is class leading. The final edge I would give to Rolex would be in resale value. Since you can buy a used Tudor BB58 for a good deal you are going to have to offer a good deal to sell it if you don’t like it. Double edged sworn with that one but there aren’t many other consumer products you can purchase new and sell them later used for a profit.

Best part of this watch was how excited the wife was when I brought it home. It was on the factory nato strap and she immediately took it out of the box and put it on! Then declared she was wearing it to work on the first day I got it! That’s a new one!

I strongly suspect this will not be my last Tudor watch in the collection and look forward to adding some more in the future! Well done Tudor! Highly recommended!





Strap Monster!!!!!




Here is a comparison of the cases of the 16570 / BB58 / 116610LN

The Sub is 1mm larger but wears SO much bigger due to lug design and size. Really like 2 different classes of watches. The BB58 does scratch the itch for a 5 series Submariner in a more vintage inspired design!

[j10s]

Congrats on the new watch! I had the bb58 bronze with the T-fit, and I can confirm that it was very nice. The bracelet was fine for me, but not superb like a Rolex jubilee.

[cornerstore]

Uncle Seiko makes a half link for the BB 58. I had one on my 58 and it made all the difference. Enjoy!

[vipereaper30]

Try it on the Forstner jubilee, my favorite pairing.

[TimeAZ]

Congrats!! I agree whole heartedly. The BB58 is a homerun.

[huba01]

Congrats, like the bb 58 blue a lot

[winst]

Nice right up. I wear mine on a blue Vanguard strap and love how comfortable it is along with the modern integrated look.

[Brich436]

Originally Posted by winst

Nice right up. I wear mine on a blue Vanguard strap and love how comfortable it is along with the modern integrated look.

I have my eye on the Vanguard strap as well!


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[GGGMT]

I couldn’t agree more. My black, be 58, 925 is one of my all-time favorites. It wears amazing. The loom is unbelievable. The dimensions are perfect. The bezel clicks are excellent.


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[Ruvv]

Congrats!

[Brich436]

Originally Posted by GGGMT

I couldn’t agree more. My black, be 58, 925 is one of my all-time favorites. It wears amazing. The loom is unbelievable. The dimensions are perfect. The bezel clicks are excellent.


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I bet the 925 when it starts to patina looks so friggin good!

[Law52]

I too have the blue model and liked it so much I added the black. The size is right and I agree they don’t quite have the same comfort as my newer Rolexes, but they also aren’t uncomfortable as many other watches I’ve owned in the past.

[Slimpee]

Originally Posted by cornerstore

Uncle Seiko makes a half link for the BB 58. I had one on my 58 and it made all the difference. Enjoy!

x2. I used one for my Ranger and it’s now perfect.

[Colorado_kid]

Great write up.

I agree. The BB58 is so special.

I now feel like my Rolex collection is like jewelry.

Whereas my BB58 has come with me around the world, spent time on my wrist in Cancun, Cabo San Lucas, Europe and Asia and I never had to think twice about it.

When I wear one of my Rolex I can’t help but feel precious about it.




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[Big Kahuna 0311]

Excellent write up thank you!

[Reikolexguy]

It looks even better on the leather strap!

I agree with the OP that Tudor has really upped its game and dollar for dollar, Tudor represents a compelling value, especially if you pick them up preowned.

Tudor is now a serious competitor to Omega and grand Seiko.

The new Tudor Black Bay burgundy bezel on jubilee bracelet will be my next acquisition.

Tudor still retains its tool watch vibe, unlike the Rolex, which has thrown off most pretence of tool-ishness. It is fully marketed as jewellery with a timekeeping functionality.

Perhaps that’s why I’m much more careful when I wear my Rolex, it’s like jewellery to me. It’s a testament to the brand’s marketing prowess that I treat my Rolex as such.

If I recall correctly, one of Rolex’s former CEOs explicitly stated that it no longer sees itself as a watchmaking company, but a luxury brand company.


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[GGGMT]

Originally Posted by Brich436

I bet the 925 when it starts to patina looks so friggin good!

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[Brich436]

Originally Posted by GGGMT

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Wow! That looks amazing! I love how it’s slowly changing colors. Very very cool.

Is that a Barton band rubber strap you have it on?


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[Brich436]

Originally Posted by vipereaper30

Try it on the Forstner jubilee, my favorite pairing.

Great idea! That does look stunning!


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[1William]

Congratulations. I am a huge Tudor fan for a lot of reasons. A lot of watch for the money.

[Driver8]

I'm a big fan of the BB58 Blue. Hard to fault it for the money. Congrats OP.

Originally Posted by GGGMT

I just can't get onboard with patina AT ALL. It sets my OCD gland off!

[Brich436]

Originally Posted by 1William

Congratulations. I am a huge Tudor fan for a lot of reasons. A lot of watch for the money.

Couldn’t agree more. One of my friends said I wouldn’t like the Tudor since I have only had Rolex. Boy was he wrong!


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[GGGMT]

Originally Posted by Brich436

Wow! That looks amazing! I love how it’s slowly changing colors. Very very cool.

Is that a Barton band rubber strap you have it on?


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Yep Barton. Perfect on it. Here’s orange. This watch is sick.






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[GGGMT]

Originally Posted by Driver8

I'm a big fan of the BB58 Blue. Hard to fault it for the money. Congrats OP.



I just can't get onboard with patina AT ALL. It sets my OCD gland off!

Yeah, you definitely got to love growing personality” on your watch. Scratches, etc. or it will be a bummer. This patina is like a tropical case. I can’t get enough. Here it was the weekend it was new.




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[Mountain]

Looks great!

[Urosfan]

Congrats


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[Brich436]

Originally Posted by GGGMT

Yep Barton. Perfect on it. Here’s orange. This watch is sick.






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Epic! This model looks so good on straps!

[Brich436]

Here it is on the Vanguard strap which is fantastic!




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[NachoNeal]

Home run!

[pedersenkl]

You are making me want to pick one up.

I added an SMP300 Blue and Sub, since looking at BB 58 Blue….but it still feels like I need the Tudor. Just love the dial/case/color …not so much bracelet. If they get even lower, I’ll need to grab one.